Here it is, folks! Hopefully I'll get it all cleaned up and presentable in a couple of days.








Parque Nacional de Basaseachic, Chihuahua, Mexico

Climbing History

Being about the size and depth of Yosemite this emense and expansive area hosts almost no routes. El Gigante the major wall of the area, is up to 1000 meters and has seen only two ascents. Cecila Buil and Carlos Garcia pioneered two large routes in the 90's on the wall. Both required significant effort to get equipment to the bottom of the wall. Mexican porters were employed for four days (two to get in and two to get out) to carry in loads. Apart from these expeditions in the Candamenia Canyon there are only a few other routes.
The Cascade Wall with Cascada de Basaseachic has three routes now. In the 90's either a yugoslavian or a mexican team climbed a large corner system that is about 350 meters. A blank looking wall in between the corner and the main arete has bolts linking some thin seams which is either an aid line or a rappel route. In winter 2001 a 300 meter 10 pitch 5.13 sport route was established on a prominent steep buttress to the right of the other lines .
A sport crag exists just outside the park at Rancho San Lorenzo (about 50 routes).

Climbing Season

The elevation at the park entrance is about 2000 meters and the canyon drops quickly down to 1500 meters below the waterfall. The summer can be very hot and dry but climbing should be possible on many shady walls. Fall is the best season with comfortable daytime and nighttime temperatures but occasional thundershowers are possible. Winter with its short days can have perfect conditions but also rain and snow. Spring is the windiest time of the year and can have dependable temperatures as well.

Parque Nacional de Basaseachic

The Parque Nacional de Basaseachic is located in northern Mexico in the state of Chihuahua. The park is situated in a region known as the Barrancas del Cobre, a large rugged and steep 30,000 square kilometer wilderness containing the more well known Copper Canyon. The huge canyons of the area are deep water-cut gorges showing millions of years river erosion similar to the Grand Canyon. Basaseachic National Park is famous for its huge waterfalls, which are among the tallest on the planet.

Rock Quality and Potential

The Basaseachic area consists of thick sequences of andesite and rhyolite, which is in between basalt and tuff.. It offers climbing from cracks, smooth slabs to steep pocket pulling in every wishable size between bouldering and big walls.
In addition to the Cerro Gigante, the canyon system provides more untouched medium size big walls up to 500 or more meters tall. In the surrounding ranges you can find enough sport crags to bolt for the rest of your life, not counting all the bouldering spots.

Transportation, Accommodation and Food

Chihuahua City is the closest airport with international connections. Here you can get most services but no climbing shop. Busses run regularly from Chihuahua to the village of Basaseachic. It is also possible to take a train to Creel in the Copper Canyon area south of Basaseachic and hitchhike to the village.
The main road south of the village leads to the main trail head and park entrance. The gift shops at the parking lot can also offer cheap rooms to rent with showers and firewood. Camping here is plentiful and free. The alternate entrance to the park on the east side is through Rancho San Lorenzo owned by Fernando Dominguez. Here Fernando has more luxurious cabins for about $20 US per person. Camping costs $10 US a car (no matter how many people) including showers and firewood. Located here are multiple sport crags with about 50 routes from 5.8 to 5.13+. These crags are not in the park so you have to pay Fernando Dominguez. A misleading photo appeared in Rock & Ice Magazine of someone doing a sport route with the waterfall in the background. The waterfall is not visible from the sport crag. Access to the crags is included in the overnight fees, or 25 pesos a day. It is important that you bring all the money from either Chihuahua or any other bigger city since around Basaseachic no ATM exists. Most local markets have all basic foods but expect higher prices then in Chihuahua City. A alternative solution is to bring all food from the US.

Thanks
Luke, Dierk and Pete.



Topo of the team's route


High on the wall.


Dierk


Pete on pitch 10.


Luke on pitch one.


Pete on pitch 2.


Trundling!