12/2000 Diablo News: Wear a Freakin' Helmet, People!
On Sunday December 3rd a climber was reaching to clip the first bolt on Sun
Devil (the 3 pitch sport route at Diablo) when the rock he was holding for
stability gave way, causing several tons of rock above it to cascade down
the face, blowing him off the climb and onto the talus below. Fortunately
the larger rocks broke up before pummeling him, preventing certain death.
The belayer was dragged down the slope as he attempted to arrest the fall,
but escaped with minor scrapes. However, the leader suffered a skull
fracture and concussion. An abnormally high number of climbers (for Diablo)
were in the immediate vicinity, all of which participated in a well
orchestrated evacuation, aided by Sante Fe paramedics. The climber spent
only one night in the hospital and is expected to make a full recovery,
which surprised even the most optimistic physicians given the severity of
the accident. His resilience is partially attributed to being extremely fit
as an avid and successful bicycle racer. Had he been wearing a helmet he may
well have walked away from the scene on his own. An effort is underway to
establish an emergency station in the canyon, equipped with a backboard and
a stokes litter, in order to expedite future evacuations if this unfortunate
circumstance occurs again.
12/2000 New Diablo Route
From Rick B:
On Monday December 4th, Ken Kisiel and I finished a new bolted route on the
South facing North wall of Diablo Canyon. The route begins about 10 feet
left of Post Moderate and pulls through a series of three roofs and 15 bolts
to anchors 150 feet up. We estimated the grade at 5.11- but we have yet to
come up with a name. After the rockfall induced accident the previous day,
we were very zealous in our efforts to minimize the presence of loose rock.
However, as with all Diablo routes a helmet is highly recommended.
9/23-24 New Diablo Routes
I finally put up a couple of routes on the two tiered portion of the north facing wall (across from Sun Devil). Here's the descriptions. As usual they're a bit long winded, but I wanted to make sure they could be found, and that nobody raps off the end of their rope (long). -Rick Bradshaw
The north north-east facing wall of the main Diablo Canyon contains a band of good basalt that forms the upper tier of the two tiered formation (across the canyon from Sun Devil). At the left end of the formation the upper tier intersects the ground providing easy access for climbs like Two Wheel Drive (10c), Humbolt (10a), and Early Arete (11d). However, the lower tier of bad looking basalt forms the base for the right 4/5 of the formation, inhibiting access to the alluring bomber basalt above. The following climbs establish access to, and ascend one of the most obvious lines on that upper tier. Mocos Locos (Crazy Boogers) begins on a 5 foot block at the base of the wall and ascends the face to the left of the Diablo Standard Crack (5.9R, 1st continuous crack system right of the most protruding part of the formation). From another perspective, it starts about 20 feet right of where the base of the formation turns steeply up hill and toward the south (also about 40 feet right of where you end up from the rap station described in La Nariz below). The climb faces NNE, receiving sun only during peak summer months and only in the early morning. It was established on September 23rd and 24th by Leslie Kelch, Scott Beguin, and Rick Bradshaw. Thirteen bolts plus anchors gets you 100 feet above the starting block, requiring a 60 meter rope for lowering or rappel. The rock and the route are surprisingly good despite their appearance. The route is less technical than La Nariz but longer and more pumpy resulting in the same 11b/c grade. From the anchors one can traverse up and left on easy fifth class rock for about 50 feet to the base of La Nariz.
La Nariz (The Nose) ascends the prominent arete of the most protruding formation on the north facing wall above the main canyon at Diablo. The route was established on August 27th by Rick Bradshaw and Leslie Kelch, with previous scouting and cleaning help from Josh Smith. The route starts approximately 130 feet above the ground on a wide ledge system that separates the wall into two distinct sections, and about 50 feet up and left from the top of Mocos Locos. The line is an obvious choice, following an ever broadening arete on excellent rock with sustained climbing and spectacular position. The route goes at 11b/c with approximately 10 bolts plus anchors. The belay ledge is spacious, comfy, and secure. To descend, rappel or be lowered from the top anchors to a set of chains approximately 30 feet directly below the base of the climb (97 feet from the top anchors and 105 feet above the ground so be aware of the end of your rope!). The second can grab the ropes from near the start of La Nariz and also rap to the station. The rappel from here requires a 60 meter rope and a bit of rope stretch to reach the ground. Currently this is only a rap station, but the face below it has been top roped and several potential lines exist for future development.
8/28 New Routes at the Dungeon?
Thought the Dungeon was tapped out? Apparently not! Someone has decided that the small wall to the west of the 45-degree Boulder has potential, and has bolted 2 extremely short 3-bolt climbs. The two routes are heavily vegetated and quite slabby, probably checking in at around 5.7. The questions of who bolted them and why remain unresolved.
8/17 Another Diablo Desperate
Mary Poppins is the second bolted route to be established on the upper tier
bullet basalt on the south east side of the Grotto (NW facing). Bolting and
cleaning was a team effort by Rick Bradshaw, Rick Smith, Josh Smith, and Walt
Wehner over two weekends in July. Josh Smith got the FA on Saturday
August 12 giving it a 12+ rating. The route starts about 50 feet right of Medusa
(12+), which was the first bolted route on the upper tier. Both routes are
highly visible from the far side of the Grotto basin. Medusa ends in chains a
few feet shy of the rim near the left edge of the canyon wall. Mary Poppins
follows a vague arête, right of a prominent crack system that separates it from
Medusa. The route begins at a rap station on a large comfortable ledge
(Coatimundi Ledge, named after the cool cat that frequents there). The ledge
is about 50 feet above the top anchor shared by the two routes "Good"
(10b) and "Evil" (11a) (3rd and 4th bolted routes from the
left). While Coatimundi Ledge can be accessed from the tops
of any of the first four bolted lines on the lower tier, Good or Evil are
the most convenient starting points (and the most fun). The route
traverses up and left from Coatimundi Ledge on a very smooth slab up to a
small ledge on the arête and a no hands rest (11b). It then continues up the
right side of the arête to a roof and another no hands rest
(11c/d). The route then traverses up and right to bypass the first overhang
(11d), then back left directly below the next and the crux section of
the climb. Use your magic umbrella to negotiate the next section past
two bolts to a sloping ledge (12+) (falls are very clean and spectacularly
exposed!). One more bolt and a short vertical section reaches the
anchors nearly 200 feet above the Grotto basin but still two overhangs and
40 feet below the rim (future project?). A 60 meter rope is required, both to
allow the leader to be lowered off the climb and in order to make it to the
ground from Coatimundi Ledge. There are 11 bolts plus
anchors.
-Rick Bradshaw
8/3 Heatwave!
Keep cool with the Onion's free guide (endorsed by the LA Climbing Update).
7/12 Another New Route at the Pit
Alisa Green led the FA of the Pit's newest route (also as yet unnamed) on Wednesday evening. The 5 bolt 5.9 climbs a slabby face to a 2 bolt anchor, just to the left of "Hello My Future Girlfriend".
7/8 2 New Routes in White Rock
Day Frostenson and Theo Takeda climbed the first ascents of Los Alamos' newest sport routes this afternoon. Both are located at the Pit, near Gallow's Edge, in White Rock canyon. "Hello My Future Girlfriend" 5.11a (see Hello My Future Girlfriend for more info) ascends 4 bolts worth of pocketed rock to an ancient 2-bolt anchor, which currently has no lowering equipment. The second route, as yet unnamed, is a steep 3 bolt 5.10c. The Pit is located just to the North of Gallow's Edge, and is slated for more development.
6/4 Diablo's Hardest Repeated
Rick Bradshaw's "Lucifer's Hammer Drill" saw it's first repeat this weekend - a flash by a very strong fellow named Joel, who estimated the grade at 5.12d/13a - considerably harder than the previous 12c rating. This makes Lucifer's the most difficult confirmed route at Diablo.
6/1: Closures from Rock and Ice
I wrote this brief update, which appears on the Rock and Ice website. I'll be in contact with Forest Service folks frequently, so as soon as these places are open, I'll post something.
Fires Shut Down New Mexico Climbing
New Mexico's worst-ever wildfire has closed the Dungeon
climbing area (featured in the June issue of R&I) indefinitely,
as well as other crags located near Los Alamos in the Santa
Fe National Forest. For their own safety, and to help ensure
the eventual recovery of the burned areas, climbers are asked
not to visit the following areas until further notice:
The Dungeon
Shangri-La (and all other Los Alamos Canyon areas)
Reservoir Crag
Back Rocks
A number of other New Mexico climbing areas (including,
but not limited to Questa Dome, Tres Piedras, El Rito, and
Cochiti Mesa) are closed due to severe fire danger.
The Forest Service will determine when these areas will
re-open to the public. Environmental impact and safety
assessments (including planned examinations of fixed
hardware and rock by geologists and climbers) will be
necessary at the Los Alamos crags. For more information on
forest closures and wildfires, visit www.fs.fed.us/r3/fire or
call (877) 864-6985.
5/23: Forest Closures - El Rito, Tres Piedras, Questa Dome
Carson National Forest was declared closed to all use yesterday, including the Questa, Tres Piedras, and El Rito Ranger districts. All three of these fine crags are located on Forest Service land, and they are thus closed until sufficient rainfall is received to mitigate the fire danger. Once again, these areas are CLOSED. Violating the closure is a misdemeanor punishable by a fine up to $5,000 and six months in jail. For more information on forest closures and wildfire danger, please visit the Southwestern Region Fire Web Site or call (877) 864-6985.
2000 - New Diablo Route(s)
5/27/2000 "Two Wheel Drive"
Rick Bradshaw and Walt Wehner established Diablo's newest route on Saturday - "Two Wheel Drive" ascends a clean face just to the right of "Humbolt", and checks in at a moderate 5.10c.
4/2000 From Rick Bradshaw:
The new route at the Sewer Crag (established April 2) goes up a steep and striking arete, crossing from one side to the other linking the natural jugs with slaps and crimps. "Fecal Antimatter" is an exhilarating 11d with 9 bolts plus anchors. It starts about 15 feet to the left of "Septic Maiden", the 11c/d we put up several weeks ago, which is on the last vestige of accessible rock when traversing the base of the crag, before you dead end at an insurmountable drainage drop off.
The new route at Diablo (established April 16) is located on the SW side of the main canyon (across from Sun Devil) and starts about 50 feet left of "Humbolt", the new 10a discussed previously. The whole formation resembles a large pointy nose. The route traverses left from the main wall, just above the left nostril to the tip, requiring about 8 feet of fancy footwork and good mental control. It then follows the arete to the top. The 11c crux is a balancy sequence to get established onto the arete, where the exposure suddenly gets your attention. The nasal looking formation combined with the instant exposure prompted the name "Airway Arete". It's short by Diablo standards, with only 7 bolts plus anchors, but if fear control clears your head you'll be in alpha heaven by the time you reach the chains.
3/2000
I've decided to experiment with putting some news on Diablo developments online again - hopefully those who objected last time will consider that the crag is now quite heavily developed (more than 30 bolted routes) and justifiably becoming well known. In any case, I welcome feedback.
Rick Bradshaw and Walt Wehner recently established the canyon's 2 newest routes: "Winter Capacity" 5.11a, a severely overhanging but surprisingly moderate route on the West side of the Grotto, and "Humbolt" 5.10a (pictured above, other members of the FA party included Theo Takeda, Mick Schein, and Josh Smith). The route is a 9-bolt moderate (near "Early Arete" 5.11d) on what, for lack of a better term, I call the Left End.
Check back for future updates and more photos.
3/12/2000 New Sewer Crag Route
Rick Bradshaw and Rick Smith bolted and climbed "Septic Maiden" 5.11c/d at the Sewer Crag this weekend. If I know these boys, it's no doubt an excellent route. With a few more climbs (and some moderates) the Sewer Crag could yet become popular!
3/7/2000 Diablo Photos
Mmmm. Pretty photos from Diablo, courtesy of Josh Smith. click here to view them.
1/15/2000 - "Sun Devil" - A Must-Do Route
After finally personally climbing this route (located at Diablo canyon - check archives for description/photo) I feel everyone should know that the route is NOT nearly as dangerous as Rick's description made it sound. Wear a helmet and be careful - but don't be intimidated. This is a _3-pitch_ sport climb! You won't find anything like it in New Mexico (or all that many other places, for that matter). Highly recommended!
12/27/99 - 1/10/2000 Road Trip Report Plus Pictures!
Los Alamosians at Indian Creek, St. George, and Red Rocks. Check it out! (note: still under construction until further notice)
1/13/2000 Rap Anchor at Western Wall
A bolted rap anchor has been placed on the top of the Pajarito Gorge's Western Wall. The bolts can be reached (cautiously) from the rim, and provide a quicker way of descending to the base. Routes on the wall may soon receive protection bolts.
1/12/2000 FA at the Enchilada
Theo Takeda and Walt Wehner established a new gear-protected face and arete route at the Big Enchilada today, and dubbed it "Slupid" 5.10- R. The high-quality line ascends a 60 foot arete with somewhat shaky pro.