(North Face, of course)
Translated by Cameron McPherson Smith
August 1996
North Face of the Eiger
by W. and M. Munter, translated by C.M.Smith
Route #1141
Eiger Nordwand (Northface)
First Ascent: Harrer, Heckmair, Kasparek & Vorg, 1938. (If you have not read Harrer's "The White Spider"....you must - CMS)
UIAA Grade V- and IV (of possible VII), G14 (of possible G20)
(The UIAA Grade appears to represent the technical difficulty of the moves, while the G grade [which is calculated as the product of difficulty, alpine character, objective danger and route length] assesses the overall seriousness of the route. The G grade ranges from 1 (basically, walk-ups) to 20 (e.g. the Eiger North Wall Direct, which is the 60's route not to be confused with the 1938 first successful ascent route, which is described in this document). The Matterhorn North Wall is G11-G12. The Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses is rated G13. The G Grade seems most similar to the North Americal Roman Numeral grade, in which a day outing route may be a Grade II and the Nose on 3,200-foot El Capitan is rated as Grade VI. Regardless of these varied and necessarily subjective assesments, note that the Eiger 1938 route is G14, and this, to paraphrase one British alpinist, 'means desperate'. CMS).
GENERAL COMMENTS
The [most infamous] of all Northwalls in the Bernese Alps. Face height c.1,700m, climbing length - given the many traverses - is nearly 3km. Objective dangers very high [rockfall!]. Very long and sustained. One must calculate for a minimum of one bivouac. In the best conditions, one can reach the Swallow's Nest on the first day. From here on one may possibly reach the Spider or perhaps even the summit (on the second day). At this writing the Face has more than 150 routes and is one of the most (explored? attempted?) North Faces of the Bernese Alps. More than 50 climbers have paid for their (spirit? passion? obsession? hubris?) with their lives.
In 1938 the Eiger North Face was one of the 'last great problems' [of European alpinism], where the first ascent party would be that group which found the best route. In the 1960's and 1970's, varied routes (including 'diretissimas') were attempted; roughly ten [were established]. Most of these [successful] were able to reduce the danger of rockfall by making winter ascents. With ever-greater time- and logistical-intensive efforts, ever more 'new routes' were possible (implication of these being somewhat contrived?).
On the Western portion of the face in 1979 and 1981, as a reaction to previously expeditionary-style, heavyweight ascents, direct routes were established which tested and stirred the interest of the 'free climbers'. These routes ascended roughly 3100 and 3200 meters of the West flank, and [have little to do with?] the North Face proper. One of the most enduring problems [for parties of all ascents?] has been the exit from the 'Ramp'.
Here follows a description of the classic 1938 route. {following these general comments}
First, [it is critical to note that], due to the many traverses, retreat from the face [above a certain point - probably the Hinterstossier Traverse] is extremely complicated and [laborious? time-consuming? Likely both. CMS].
Many [pitons and ice screws] are in place [due to the long history of attempts]. The Face is [most commonly not the site of fair weather? generates its own weather? Again, likely both. CMS]. Only make an attempt when [weather forecasts are good].
Best time of year for an ascent: Mid-August - beginning of September [the period encompassing the least rockfall, but [degrading] into the season of waterfalls].
Twenty to thirty hours from beginning to summit, in the best of conditions. The Face has also been climbed in a day! (I don't know the speed record, but there are some astonishing ascents in the books...Though normally I would welcome the bivvy experience, on this route it would be best to get it over with ASAP...)
Supply:
2 x 46m ropes
slings
c. 15 rock pitons/rock protection and 6 ice screws
10 carabieners
Food and water for 3-4 days
bivouac gear
signal rockets
helmets
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
The ascent begins nearly under the fall-line from the summit, moving rightwards towards the First Pillar.
To the right of the First Pillar, ascend couloirs [up] and right towards a snowfield, thence ascend to a corner through rock bands and [chimneys?] to the foot of the Shattered Pillar. Short, difficult steps of climbing weave upwards and right from the West side of this pillar, until one is [vertically even with the summit of the Shattered Pillar, which is detached from the Face]. Some bivouac spots are available in this area [possible to make a snow-cave here].
Next, move c.45 meters right to the foot of the [somewhat misnamed?] Difficult Crack. Here begin the real difficulties, and above this point [minor route variations are common].
The Difficult Crack is c.25m, Grade IV+, English = Hard, Yosemite = c.5.7 Remember, this is likely in plastic boots, possibly with crampons, and may be verglassed! CMS). Easier climbing subseqently leads roughly three pitches leftwards, then up through a [crack] (c.15m, Grade III, English = ?, Yosemite=?) directly to a [rather spacious?] stance for the beginning of the Hinterstossier Traverse.
This traverse is roughly 40m in length, leading left, and may be [equipped with fixed ropes from other ascents?] [if no such line is in place it may be prudent to leave one here in case of a retreat; this is common knowledge among Eigerphiles, who know that precisely this oversight caused the death of several climbers on an early Eiger attempt- CMS]. From the beginning of the climb to the end of the Hinterstossier Traverse may take roughly 5 hours, and [puts one near] the Swallow's Nest bivouac site [this is supposedly a good, sheltered site: CMS].
Leftwards from here lies the First Icefield, roughly two ropelengths of c.45-50 degree climbing towards the [connection between the First and Second Icefields?]. The connection is made via the 'Ice-hose', a pitch of roughly 10m, difficulty Grade IV, English = Hard; above this is somewhat easier terrain leading to the Second Ice Field.
[Here the climb progresses] through the ice field for roughly 4 pitches of moderate climbing, around 50 degrees, ever leftward towards the Western portion of the Wall, and towards the Flatiron. Three pitches of [varied and strenuous?] climbing lead through Grade IV (English = Hard) terrain, via [steps?] and [ice pitches?] towards the Death Bivouac.
The Death Bivouac is an excellent site [despite its name, which comemmorates the point where the first attempt of the Face, in 1935, came to a terrible end -- CMS].
Onward: leftward [again!] towards the Third Icefield. This is climbed and traversed (around 55 degree pitches) towards the foot of the Ramp.
The Ramp is climbed in about 5 pitches of Grade III and IV to the beginning of the Waterfall Pitch [a good bivouac place is found near the bottom of the Waterfall Pitch]. This pitch is climbed via 20m of strenuous Grade IV+ (English = Hard+) work. Now, rightwards toward [another step; 10m of Grade IV+, English = Hard+, Yosemite = 5.7]. [several mentions of ice in this general area; probably a reference to verglas? or perhjaps to more permanently iced rock? whatever, it sounds awful: CMS]. After these various steps, ascend past [difficulties] by moving left; Grade IV moves. A one-pitch icefield follows, at roughly 50 degrees to the beginning of the Brittle Bands. After these, move just rightwards to foot of the the Brittle Crack (very difficult: Grade V-, probably Yosemite 5.8+, in plastic boots and at c.11,000 or 12,000 ' elevation by now: CMS).
Here one reaches a decent bivouac spot on the [left margin] of the Traverse of the Gods. The traverse is made on snowy and [grotesque? rotten?] rock bands, for four pitches of Grade III, rightwards towards the entrance to the Spider.
The Spider is generally firn-snow [or ice] of c.45-50 degrees, and is climbed upwards to the beginning of the Exit Cracks (the distance climbed in the Spider is not mentioned: CMS). Move up and left through two pitches of Grade III and IV to the beginning of the Quartz Crack. Through this (very difficult, Grade V-), under overhangs, and traversing left to a small {stance?}: the Corti Bivouac.
Abseil about 8m leftwards to the foot of a _____ couloir. In this, climb 2-3 pitches of Grade IV to [the head of a _______], where you begin moving right through firn snow for about 3 pitches of Grade III climbing, taking you to near the [junction] of the North and North-East walls. Now move upto the Mittellegi Ridge, and follow this to the summit.
NOTES
1. ONE MUST ONLY ATTEMPT THE FACE DURING A PERIOD OF GOOD WEATHER!
2. The Flatiron and the Third Icefield are extremely hazardous places due to rockfall originating in the Spider.
3. One must begin the Ramp at 11am AT THE LATEST on any given day [due to warming, which may increase rockfall which may be encountered as one moves into the Spider later that same day? I believe this is the logic here - CMS].
4. IN THE EVENT OF DISASTER {particularly storm?}: if under the Ramp, it is best to descend the ascent route; if above the Ramp, it is best to push on to the summit.
5. {Various warning regarding the Hinterstossier Traverse}. (It is likely the best option to simply fix a light line at the H.T. It would be easy to carry a 50-m, 7mm rope which would be left at the Traverse (regardless of other lines in place, which would be of unknown security) giving some small added measure of saftey: CMS).
OTHER EIGER INFORMATION / MISCELLANEA
- Here is a photo of the Eiger in great detail. This is at Brendan Murphy's website at Cambridge, and if you have not read his account of his ascent of the Eiger, in Mountain a few years back, you MUST! It is a gripping and fantastic piece of work; it is titled FIVE DAYS ONE EASTER. Hopefully, Brendan will post this on his web site.
- I know of the following other accounts of the Eiger:
- Jon Krakauer's first story in his collection, EIGER DREAMS. An attempt with Marc Twight.
- Heinrich Harrer's classic account of the history of the Eiger Nordwand up till about the late 70's: THE WHITE SPIDER.
- David Pagel (an accomplished alpinist) wrote a story called LEVIATHAN, some time back, for Climbing magazine, about his ascent of the wall.
- I know that Jim Bridwell describes his mid-80's ascent, with a female partner (name?) in his collection of short stories..can't remember the name of the book, though...
- Somewhere in John Longs' compilation, TALES FROM THE STEEP, is a story on the Eiger.
- Twight's Recent Atttempt A contrived 'expedition', to enchain three great faces...still, if he can get people to pay him to climb....Defeated by poor weather.
- Grindelwald Hotel. You can see if there is room available, and make reservations, over the net! Pretty soon we'll be able to book a bivvy hole at the base of the mountain...
