Technical Alpine Climbing
for
Two-Person Teams
© 1996
by
Cameron McPherson Smith
Hello, and welcome to my on-line text, Technical Alpine Climbing for Two-Person Teams. Sorry for the disclaimer business, but it is a crazed world we live in...
This is an incomplete manuscript, written in 1992, which was under contract to be published by ICS books, of Merilville, Indiana, with Jim Bridwell as editor of the work. Unfortunately, Bridwell was overwhelmed with his slide tour, and he dropped
the project. I now find myself without the time or resources to complete and edit the text, as well as complete the 80 or so illustrations needed.
For this reason, and a few others, I am putting the text on-line for the use of fellow alpinists, particularly those just beginning in this realm of adventure. I sincerely hope that there will be something of interest and value here for climbers of all le
vels of experience, but I would like to emphasize that this manuscript is written for climbers with some basic competence in roped movement on rock, at least, and perhaps ice and snow. It is to the climber of about two or three years' experience, who kno
ws something of their limits and ambitions, and who is seeking adventure a bit beyond that which they find at crag climbs, that I really address this text.
A few notes: First, I am quite 'traditional' in my views on climbing, in that I am most concerned with surviving the attempt to climb a route rather than the style in which it is ascended. Ethics are well and good, but, in my opinion, may be largely cas
t aside in the alpine realm, where there are simply too many unknown and/or uncontrollable variables, any of which may kill you before you have a chance to know what they are. Second, some of the text is, of course, out-dated; this is unsurprising consid
ering the rapid pace of technological innovation in climbing equipment over the last few years; stronger, lighter and more efficient devices and materials seem to be released every time I look at a climbing magazine. While many innovations are undoubtedl
y advantageous, I am of the opinion that there is also a lot of hype, too much emphasis on marketing, and a great deal of 'over-design'; simply put, many of the innovations are minor, or insignificant. The whole scene is, in my opinion, a bit distasteful
... Still, by selecting carefully from the confusing pool of options in hardware, ropes, clothing and other impedimentia, you can assemble a reliable, efficient and versatile pile of equipment that will see you through many fine adventures.
Third, and very importantly, to the beginner: please remember that ethics and standards espoused by the big names in climbing are established by these big names, and that these people, generally, climb every day (or nearly so); their lives are centered on
climbing; it is their job, in a way, to be ranked highly, and this requires their constant activity. Many of us are not in such a position, and it is to the weekend climber, who can ocassionally get a month off here and there for an expedition, that I a
ddress this text. Develop your own ethic and standard; do not die attempting to repeat or emulate some standard you see in the magazines without fully recognizing that the people who establish these standards are world-class. I feel certain that, given
the opportunity, many of us could reach such goals as are reached by the elite; however, since I do not have the opportunity to climb every day, I adjust my goals and climbing ethic to fit my own level of ability at any given time. I am talking here abou
t soloing, attempting rapid ascents with minimal margins for error an the like. Certainly I do not discourage such bold ventures; quite the opposite. However, you must set your goals according to a reasonable assessment of your abilities and the conditi
ons prevailing on the mountain at any given time.
Qualifications: Who am I to write this book? I've never been featured in a magazine; you have most likely never heard of me...In short, I am a weekend climber. I've been climbing for 12 years, and I have wide experience on rock, ice and snow; I have cl
imbed throughout the Pacific Northwest, a bit in Scotland and England, and I have recently moved to Vancouver, British Columbia, where I will be focusing my climbing activities for some years as I pursue a PhD in archaeology. I have been in storms, many
rappel epics, good ascents and descents, bad ascents and descents; the lot. I have climbed the Washington Column (S. Face, Prow) and the Royal Arches in Yosemite, Mt. Rainier by the Ingraham Glacier Direct, Mt. Hood (by many routes), the long routes in Red Rocks, Nevada (Resolution Arete, 17 pitches, Epinephrine, 18 pitches), and I've made one expedition to Alaska, on an attempt to man-haul in to the Devil's Thumb via the Baird Glacier. I've bailed froma lot of the 'big routes' of North America: twice from the Beckey-Chouinard (V, 5.9, 18pitches) in the Bugaboos (weather), and once from the Nose of El Capitan in a Winter attempt in 1997. Retreats are common and not something to worry too much about. Analyze your mistakes, and get back to it.
Of course I have also done innumerable crag and mixed climbs at Yosemite, Joshua Tree, at Tahquitz rock in California, in Kenya and Yorkshire, ice climbs in the Columbia River Gorge, Washington, at Beacon Rock, Washington, attempted to solo Liberty Bell twice, was stormed off it once after climbing the only difficult pitches, etc. etc etc. I do no
t cliam to be a pro, just an active weekend warrior with long and wide experience. You can see photos and read stories about my climbing experiences on my climbing web-page, HERE.
Guess that's it for now. I hope you find something of use here. Good
luck, and good climbing!
Cameron M. Smith, January 1998
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Cameron M. Smith
Department of Archaeology, PhD Programme
Simon Fraser University
Burnaby, British Columbia
V5A 1S6 CANADA