Mission Gorge is the oldest established climbing area in San Diego County. The rock is a metamorphosed granite, unique to the county, and is extremely hard and water polished (which means you don't get great smears like everywhere else in CA). The cliff offers a mixture of both crack and face climbing, and is steep, slick and strenuous, often requiring creative palming, pinching and counterbalance manuvers. Most routes are 40 to 80 ft high. This is a great place for the local San Diego climber whether you are just starting out or are an experienced climber. I personally have not found this area too rewarding, I prefer to go to Santee or Woodson (for solitude and better rock).

The only reason people climb in this area is because it is basically right in San Diego. You don't get any closer to greasy gym climbs than this. The rock is so slick that smearing really isn't an option. Grips are normally open handed, like gym. Not to mention that due to the overbolting and ease of setting up the top anchors for TR it gets really crowded on weekends. To sum this area up in one sentence, it is like climbing in a gym half an hour before it closes early on a rainy sunday afternoon. That said though, it dones have a few climbs worth doing. Crack of dust is good, and The Ramp are awesome. But they are definitely the exception to the rules. I recommend the Middle Earth Area if you want to get some privacy, and see some of the better climbs in the gorge.

Oh, though it is convenient to park inside the park itself, make sure that you allow enough time to get out before sunset. The park is serious in their threats to lock the gates with your vehicle inside. Also, glass bottles are not allowed in the park, so pick up some cheap cans of beer across from the park entrance at the small deli (I think all they really sell is beer, beef jerky, and porn.

Climbs I have done at Mission Gorge:

Hangman's Climb 5.9*
Crack of Dust 5.8***
Caterpillar 5.8*
Fingerrip 5.9**
Never Intended 5.10**
The Stairs 5.3**
The Ramp 5.7**** (this is the only reason to come to this crag)
Double Trouble 5.10b**
Mighty Monger 5.10d* (ridiculously huge reach at top)
Black Rider 5.10+**
Face right of Caradhras 5.10+**
Glamdring 5.11***
Face left of Glamdring 5.10**  

Complete detailed guide can be downloaded for free at San Diego Climbers Coalition

Directions: Take the I-15 to the Friars road exit and head east. Turn on the Mision Trails road right after Jackson Drive to enter the park area. Drive through the main gates about a 1/2 mile. There is limited parking on your right hand side. You can also park outside of the gates at the visitor center. Go up the orange mound to the left and then follow the switchbacks to the base of the cliff. There is a porta-john that marks the beginning of the trail. If you are planning on staying into the evening park outside the main gates. Gate closure times are (Apr.-Oct. 7p.m.-8a.m.;Nov.-Mar. 5p.m.-8a.m.). They will lock your car inside the gates if you are running late, or they will tow you.