32 Peaks 1999

Sunrise Peak | Monte Cristo | Clayton & Preston Peaks | North Flagstaff Peak | Mt Venture
American Fork Twins | Sunrise & Dromedary Peaks | Bells Trip | More Day Hikes | Pfeifferhorn
Honeycomb Cliffs | Unnamed Peak | Kessler Peak


The idea to climb all of Salt Lake County's 32-10,000 foot peaks was thought up by James and Duane in June of 1998. They topped out on their first peak, Honeycomb Cliffs (10,479), on July 3, 1998. Their goal was to climb all 32 in 1 year. Keith, Matt, and Dan quickly joined in on this goal, and joined James and Duane in 1998. Now the mountaineering season of 1999 had begun. Unfortunately, Duane was leaving for the Army, with too many peaks to climb in too short a time. He wouldn't be around to see his goal accomplished, but the other guys would. After a few days in June, James and Keith realized Dan and Matt weren't going to be able to climb with them, because everytime James invited them, they were busy, or didn't want to come. Keith and James continued on without them. Five people started for this goal, and only two would finish it. Many of the hikes and climbs in June were repeats for James, peaks he did with Duane, Dan, or Matt, but he did them again, so Keith could finish the goal with him. They saved 3 peaks neither of them had climbed for the last 3 days, so they could finish the goal together. Here is a list of the peaks and who climbed them. Remember, some of these (ones in italics) were done in '98 and can be read about in 1998 Mountaineering.

1. American Fork Twins 11,489: James, Keith, Matt, Dan, James, Keith, Duane, Dan
2. Broads Fork Twins 11,330: James, Keith, Matt, Dan,
3. Pfeifferhorn 11,326:
James, Keith, Matt, Dan, Don T, Kevin, James, Keith, Duane, Dan, Don S, Greg F
4. White Baldy 11,321: James, Keith, Duane, Dan, Don S
5. Sunrise 11,275: James, Keith, Duane, Don S
6. Lone Peak 11,253: James, Keith, Jon, Dan, Don T
7. Red Baldy 11,171: James, Keith
8. South Thunder Mountain 11,154: James, Keith
9. North Thunder Mountain 11,150: James, Keith
10. Monte Cristo 11,132: James, Duane, Matt, Dan, James, Keith, Duane, Dan
11. Dromedary 11,107: James, Keith, James, Duane
12. Mount Baldy 11,068: James, Matt, James, Keith, Duane, Dan
13. Sugarloaf 11,051: James, Matt, James, Keith, Duane, Dan
14. Unnamed 10,910: James, Keith
15. Big Horn 10,877: James, Keith
16. Mount Wolverine 10,795: James, Keith, Duane, Dan
17. Clayton Peak 10,720: James, Keith, Duane, Dan, James, Duane, Matt, Dan
18. Sunset Peak 10,648: James, Keith, Duane, Dan
19. Flagstaff (North Summit) 10,561: James, Keith, Don S, James, Duane, Dan
20. Hogum Divide 10,516: Dan, James, Keith, Duane, Matt
21. Bells Cleaver 10,488: James, Keith
22. Honeycomb Cliffs 10,479: James, Keith, Matt, Dan, Kevin, James, Duane
23. Pioneer Peak 10,440: James, Keith, Duane, Dan
24. Mount Venture 10,420: James, Keith, James, Duane, Matt, Duane
25. Kessler Peak 10,403: James, Keith, Dan
26. Preston Peak 10,315: James, Keith, Duane, Dan, James, Duane, Matt, Dan
27. Rocky Mouth Canyon Peak 10,292: James, Keith
28. Gobblers Knob 10,246: James, Keith, Matt, Dan
29. Mount Raymond 10,241: James, Keith, Matt, Dan
30. Scott Hill 10,116: James, Keith, Dan, James, Duane, Chris
31. Guardsman Peak 10,028: James, Keith, James, Duane, Matt, Dan
32. Silver Peak 10,006: James, Keith


North Thunder Mountain in winter | Pfeifferhorn in winter

James and Duane climbed Sunrise Peak (11,275) on May 24, for a school video, about mountaineering. On the way up, they witnessed an avalanche on the north ridge of Pfeifferhorn. Duane had wanted to climb Pfeifferhorn, but James thought it was too dangerous. Looks like he was right. James saw the avalanche debris up close in June, when he climbed Pfeifferhorn, and he saw that it was a huge slide, that took a lot of boulders with it. They climbed up Tanner's Gulch, then straight to the summit of Sunrise. After summiting, they decided that they would have to drop into Braods Fork Basin, and climb back up to the top of Tanners from the back. They decided to do this, due to a very dangerous section just above the pass. There was too much snow to downclimb on rocks, and too little snow to descend on snow. They finally got back up to the top of Tanners. From there it took 36 minutes to reach the car. 18 minutes of sliding, almost all the way to the bottom, and 18 minutes hiking out.

James in lower Tanners Gulch | James on Tanners Pass | Duane on the summit of Sunrise | James on the summit of Sunrise
James descending the east ridge of Sunrise | Duane descending the east ridge of Sunrise | James descending Tanners Gulch
Back to the top

On May 30, James, Duane, Matt, and Dan climbed Monte Cristo (11,132) via the Superior Slide Area. This was the last hike that Duane was able to attend, due to his departure for the Army. It was really windy, but a great hike. Duane and Dan decided to climb a couiour, that lead to the ridge, while James and Matt took the direct route. Matt forgot a jacket, so while waiting for Duane and Dan below the summit of Superior, James let Matt borrow his polar fleece jacket. After reaching the summit of Monte Cristo, they ate lunch, and descended. The problem with sliding down from the summit of Superior, was the fact that as you slid you kicked up snow, and the strong wind blew it right in your face. We still slid down, anyway, despite the stinging snow.

Matt & Dan on the way up the Superior Slide Area | Matt on the south ridge of Superior
Looking at Monte Cristo from just below Superior | Looking at the first peak west of Monte Cristo
James with Monte Cristo in the background | Dan, James, & Matt on the summit of Monte Cristo
Duane, Dan, & Matt on the summit of Monte Cristo | Duane descending the Superior Slide Area
Back to the top

James and Dan climbed Preston Peak (10,315) and Clayton Peak (10,720) again, in early June. The weather was good, until they approached the summit of Clayton Peak. On the summit of Clayton Peak, they found a hole in the snow next to the rocks to take pictures in. As usual, the weather wasn't nice on the top of Clayton, but every time we climbed it, the weather was bad. Going down was fun, and we had an easy time finding our way, since we both ski at Brighton and know all the trails.

Dan on the summit of Preston Peak | James on the summit of Preston Peak | James descending from Preston Peak
James on the summit of Clayton Peak | Dan on the summit of Clayton Peak
Back to the top

James and Keith began their goal of finishing all of the 32 peaks, by climbing the North summit of Flagstaff(10,561). Don S accompanied them, and they had a good spring snow climb, even though the weather was threatening. The route from the Alta Ranger Station straight up the south face was easy, but enjoyable. The weather actually made it more fun. On the way down they found a cool cornice that they slid off many times for fun, and cool pictures. It was great that Don could come along with us on Sundays for climbs.

Keith climbing the south slope of Flagstaff Peak | Keith and Don on the north summit of Flagstaff Peak
Keith and James on the north summit of Flagstaff | Keith on Flagstaff Peak
Don on the summit of North Flagstaff Peak
James sliding down Flagstaff Peak | Keith sliding down Flagstaff Peak
Back to the top

The next day was practice graduation for James, but that didn't keep him from doing some trail running on Gobbler's Knob (10,246). There was still some snow near the top, so he couldn't go to the summit in running shoes and shorts, but he made the false summit, which is only 30 feet lower, and 1/4 mile shorter. The 9 mile, 3000-foot vertical gain run took him just under 3 hours. Not very fast, but he isn't a professional trail runner.

Looking at the summit of Gobblers Knob | Looking at Mt Raymond from the false summit of Gobblers Knob

The next day was a shorter hike, due to James graduating high school that day. Keith and James did a quick hike from the winter gate on Guardsman Pass to Mount Venture (10,420) and Guardsman Peak (10,028). As they hiked up, there were 2 huge UDOT snowblowers clearing the road to Park City for the summer. After quickly hiking past these slow-moving machines, James and Keith continued on to the summits of both peaks. They got back just in time for James to change and go to graduation. After the boring ceremony, James, Duane, Keith, and 2 school friends went to Wasatch Front Rock Gym to climb before James and Duane went to the all night party for the seniors.

Looking at the Brighton Area from the summit of Mt Venture | Keith on the summit of Mt Venture
James on the summit of Mt Venture | Keith on the summit of Mt Venture (2) | Keith in a cutout from the plows
James in a snow cutout from the plows | Keith dwarfed by a UDOT plow | James at the gym | Keith at the gym
Back to the top

After the party finished up around 5:30, James caught a short nap and met Jon and his friend Zach to climb at Pentapitch around 8:00. Feeling a little tired, James let Jon drive, and then slept at the bottom while Jon lead, and then Zach followed up. They had to yell from the top of the first pitch to wake James up so he could climb. After climbing 2 pitches, James met Keith at the Pentapitch parking lot to climb American Fork Twin Peaks (11,489). The cheated and caught the 12:30 tram to the top of Hidden Peak (10,992). From there, it is still a way to AF Twins, especially for James, running on very low energy. Keith led most of the way, and is to be thanked for doing everything short of dragging James up. They wanted to climb Red Baldy from AF Twins, but they decided that it might be pushing it just a little. So, they slid down to the cat-track at Snowbird off of the lower Twin, and caught the tram home. They took the next day off to see Duane off at the airport, since he was leaving for the Army.

Looking at the first peak south of the lower tiwn peak | Keith on the summit of AF Twins
James on the summit | Keith on the summit, Silver Lake behind
James on the summit of AF Twins with the Cottonwood Ridge in the background | Looking at American Fork Twins

The next day Keith and James decided to hike up Scott Hill (10,116) and Silver Peak (10,006). It was an easy hike up Scott, since there is an old dirt road almost the whole way. From Scott to Silver is easy, but long. When they reached the summit of Silver, James realized that the peak he and Duane climbed back in April was the wrong one. They had been over on the other side of Desolation Peak. Once on top of Silver, Keith and James saw a new quad lift from The Canyons, that goes almost to the top of Desolation Peak (9,990). This added one more organization to our Destroying The Environment Hate List, along with Snowbird Resort and The Quarry in lower Little Cottonwood Canyon. The Canyons Resort is not nearly as bad as the others, however. Upon returning to Keith's car, we found a note from Dan, and saw his car at the trailhead. He had gone up Scott Hill with his girlfriend, and a school friend, and we had missed him somewhere on our return trip.

Keith on the summit of Scott Hill | James on the summit of Scott Hill
James on the summit of Silver Peak | Keith on the summit of Silver Peak

The next day, Saturday, was a day off. Keith was doing something, and couldn't hike, so Jon and James decided to look for good rock climbs near Pepperwood Falls, where we ice climb in the winter. They found a decent climb, which Jon lead, and they named it "Soak Your Belayer", since James, who belayed first for Jon, had to stand near the bottom of the waterfall, and get wet from spray. They named it, and rated it 5.5 (pretty easy), since there was no evidence that anybody had climbed there before. (i.e. not in the book, no rap down bolts) They found a walk-off, luckily.
Back to the top

The next day was one of the best single days of climbing we did that month. James, Keith, and Don S climbed up Tanners Gulch to Tanners Pass. From there they hoped to climb Sunrise Peak (11,275). When they began climbing, they were having more problems slipping than when James and Duane climbed Tanners Gulch in May, so they put crampons on near the bottom. This quickly solved the problem, and they continued toward the pass. It was sunny the whole day, making for softer snow. They had lunch on the pass between Sunrise and Dromedary Peak (11,107). After lunch, they headed west toward Sunrise. It was easier than the first time, because James knew which way to go around certain rock obstacles. After lunch and pictures on the summit, they all headed toward the pass. Just before arriving at the pass, Keith came up with the idea of climbing Dromedary peak also. James agreed, but Don decided to wait at the pass for them to top out and come back down. The route from the pass to Dromedary was trickier than the route up Sunrise, and a little bit more fun. After some quick pictures on the summit, James and Keith headed back down to meet Don and go home. Once again, the slide down Tanners Gulch took very little time, and they were back at the car in less than 45 minutes. Just near the bottom, along the streambed, James almost ran into a rattlesnake, but went around it and let Don and Keith know where it was. This was deifnitely one of the best climbs of the summer.

Don on Tanners Pass | Don and James on the summit of Sunrise Peak | Looking at Broads Fork Twins from Sunrise Peak
Keith and James on the summit of Sunrise | Broads Fork from Tanners Pass
Keith and James on the summit of Sunrise (2) | Looking at Dromedary Peak from Sunrise Peak
Keith and Don on the summit of Sunrise Peak | Keith on the summit of Dromedary Peak
Looking at Sunrise Peak from Dromedary Peak | James on the summit of Dromedary Peak
Looking at Lake Blanche Fork from Dromedary Peak | Keith in Tanners Gulch | Keith jumping off a rock in Tanners Gulch

The next day (Monday) Keith wasn't able to climb because he needed a day to get ready to go to Mexico, that Saturday, and also to pack for the Bells trip on Tuesday. Since James didn't have his climbing partner, he met up with Chris H, and old friend who moved to North Carolina a few years ago. They hiked up towards Mount Raymond, and Gobblers Knob, but at the junction with the Desolation Trail, they headed toward Dog Lake. After following the beautiful Desolation Trail for a while, they met up with the Dog Lake trail, going back to the same trailhead. They had made a big triangle, seeing some areas usually missed because of lack of 10,000-foot peaks. It was great to catch up with an old friend, and a good hike. The afternoon was spent getting ready for the Bells trip to start the next morning.

Chris near Gobblers Knob
Back to the top

Bells Trip

Day 1

In mid-June, Keith and James decided to do a 4 day trip to the Upper Bells Canyon area. James and Keith were the only people able to make it, even though everyone was invited. They decided to hike up to Lake Hardy, instead of Bells Canyon, because of the trailfinding difficulties in Bells Canyon. Jon dropped them off at the trailhead, on the Utah County side of the range. The trail to Lake Hardy was good, until they hit snow. From there, there were many false ridges they thought that the lake was just over. They made it up to a frozen Lake Hardy, after a full, grueling day with full packs. They settled down with James' Cheese Puffs, and relaxed in camp for a few hours.

Keith on the way up to Lake Hardy | Lake Hardy

Day 2

The second day, James and Keith had planned to climb Lone Peak (11,253) and Big Horn (Upper Bells Peak)(10,877). They got a late start out of camp, but made good time to Thunder Pass. From the pass, they headed southwest to Big Horn. Getting to the summit was easy, but getting from the summit to the pass between Lone and Big Horn wasn't as easy. There were cliffs that dropped off on both sides, and James and Keith had to weave in and out of them to get to the pass. From the pass, it was easy walking to the false summit of Lone Peak. But, from the false summit to the real summit was very exposed and scary. It took them half an hour to go those few hundred feet, because of bad snow, and exposure. On the summit of Lone, they had lunch, and celebrated Keith's birthday. James carried a present all the way up Lone, and gave it to him. It was a hat that James had made in Outdoor Clothing class in school. They now had matching hats, which you will see often, especially in the Winds. Getting back from the real summit to the false one was also quite hard, but James and Keith has less problems this time. They decided to go down to Bells Canyon and climb back up to Thunder Pass, instead of going back over Big Horn's cliffs. They made it back to camp okay, and enjoyed some dinner and relaxing.

Keith on the summit of Big Horn | Keith on the way to Big Horn, with Lone in the background
Looking at South Thunder Mtn from Lone Peak | Looking at Bells Canyon from Lone Peak
Keith sliding into Bells Canyon from below Lone Peak

Day 3

The third day, Keith and James packed up camp, and headed for South Thunder Mountain. After a windy summit, they headed down to the pass below Bells Cleaver, between Thunder Bowl and Bells Canyon. They left their packs there, and headed for North Thunder Mountain. The trip to North Thunder took less time than expected, and James and Keith had time to relax on the summit, and take pictures. Just before James got to the summit, he looked up at the highest rock on the summit, and saw a golden eagle, just sitting on the summit. Unfortunately, he scared it off, while getting his camera out. The guys signed the summit register, and headed back to the pass where their packs were. They got a quick snack from their packs, and then headed for Bells Cleaver. It only took about 20 minutes to summit Bells Cleaver from the pass. After a few summit pictures, they headed back to the pass, to get their packs, and hike down to the Upper Bells Reservoir. They set up camp just below the lake, and after dinner decided to go bouldering near camp, since James brought his climbing shoes. There was some good bouldering, but it was worth bringing the shoes.

James on the summit of South Thunder Mountain | Keith on the summit of South Thunder Mountain
Looking at the Thunder Ridge from North Thunder Mountain | James on the summit of North Thunder
Looking at the Pfeifferhorn from North Thunder Mountain | Keith on the summit of North Thunder
Hogum Divide and Hogum Fork from North Thunder | Keith on the summit of Bells Cleaver
James on the summit of Bells Cleaver | Looking at Lone Peak from Bells Cleaver
Keith bouldering near camp | James bouldering near camp | Keith bouldering near camp (2)

Day 4

They packed up camp again, and headed for Rocky Mouth Canyon. They went over to the minor side canyon next to the Upper reservoir, and left their packs there. The view from the top of Rocky Mouth Canyon Peak is cool, since you can see the whole valley. Too bad they had to go back there. After getting the packs, James and Keith headed down Bells Canyon, to the stream crossing. When Dan and James crossed the stream in October, it was hard, but when Keith and James tried it in June, during peak runoff, they couldn't safely do it. They had to bushwhack for half a mile on the wrong side of the stream, until they found a suitable place to cross. Then they had to buchwhack uphill on the other side of the stream to find the trail. After finding the trail, they followed it home, and waited at the trailhead for Keith's mom to pick them up. Just as they arrived at the trailhead, James' shoulder strap on his pack broke. Luckily, they were sitting on the curb waiting when it happened, so he didn't have to carry a broken pack down the trail at all.

James on the summit of Rocky Mouth Canyon Peak | Keith on the summit of Rocky Mouth Canyon Peak
A view of Bells Canyon from partway up Rocky Mouth Canyon Peak
Back to the top

Back To Day Hikes

The next day, Keith left for Mexico, and James was without a climbing partner for a week. He wanted to go up Broads Fork Twins with Don T, but was too tired after a four day trip at the end of 2 straight weeks of hiking and climbing. The next few days, Jon and James did some rock climbing at Storm Mountain, Pentapitch, and Crescent Buttress. The only day they didn't go rock climbing all week was on Tuesday, when James soloed up Mount Baldy (11,068), and Sugarloaf (11,051).

Saturday finally brought a number of the guys back to the mountains. Don T, James, Matt, Dan, and Kevin decided to climb the Pfeifferhorn (11,326) via Maybird Gulch. They made good time up to the Maybird bridge, and upto Maybird Lakes. James and Matt had been there before, so they found a way up even though the trail was covered in snow. Once they started heading for the east ridge of the Pfeifferhorn, Matt and Kevin decided to hit the ridge on a lower point since they didn't have crampons. Meanwhile, James, Don, and Dan headed up the planned route to the point where the east ridge meets the summit pyramid. On the way up to the ridge, they almost ran into mountain goats traversing the slope, heading towards Hogum Fork. Topping out didn't take long, and they had lunch and took pictures on the summit. James, Matt, and Dan wanted to stay on the summit longer and relax, but Don and Kevin needed to go home, so they headed down. After sitting around for a while, James, Matt, and Dan slid down the long steep slope off of the east ridge. Matt had so much fun, he wanted to climb back up it and do it again, so he did. Dan wanted to climb Hogum Divide (10,516), so he continued down Hogum Fork to get to it. James just waited at Maybird Lakes for everyone and tanned. Matt showed up at the lake first, and they waited for Dan to come down from Hogum Divide. After a while, they started to worry, and were about to begin searching for him, when he appeared announcing he made it to the top. They all then headed down towards Red Pine Canyon and the bridge. Unfortunately, they ended up at the stream nowhere near the bridge, and decided that it was downstream of where they were. Oops! After bushwhacking down the Maybird side of the canyon until they realized they were too far down, they found a log to slide across the stream. From here they had to hike uphill until they found the Red Pine trail. This took a while and began to get frustrating, but eventually they found it. Along they way, on the Red Pine side, they discovered an old fire ring, which was far from the trail. They were probably the first people to see it since the people who biult it, since it is in a place that is such a pain to get to, with lots of buchwhacking, that no sane person who wasn't lost would go there.

Looking at the Pfeifferhorn from Maybird Lakes | Looking at the lower Maybird Lake and the Cottonwood Ridge
Dan walking towards the Pfeifferhorn in a truly epic picture | Looking at the Maybird Headwall
Matt and James on the summit | Don T and James on the summit | Looking at Chipman Peak from the summit
Looking at Box Elder Peak from the summit | Kevin on the summit
Dan, James, Don T, & Kevin on the summit | Dan and Don T on the summit
Back to the top

Finally, Keith got back from Mexico the night James, Matt, and Dan got lost on the Pfeifferhorn. On Sunday, Keith's first full day back, they climbed Honeycomb Cliffs (10,479), as an easy hike to acclimatize Keith to the regular elevation. It was an easy hike, but they found a glass gallon jug above Solitude's Summit lift, which was kept in James' Pathfinder until his dad threw it out, and they also found a good bouldering area, which they messed around at for a while.

James on the summit of Honeycomb Cliffs | Keith on the summit of Honeycomb Cliffs
Keith jumping off a large boulder | James bouldering near Solitude
Back to the top

On Monday, James and Keith climbed up Unnamed (10,910), via the Lake Blanche Fork. The hike to the lake didn't take much time, but reaching the peak took longer. A mostly Alpine snow route up was broken by one cliff. They found a weakness in the cliff, and went for it. They had to navigate nearly vertical snow for about 50 feet, then up 4th class rock for another 50. After that, they continued up the easy summit snowfield to the top. After lunch and pictures on the top, they found an all snow route to slide down towards the lake. After passing the small, shallow, seasonal lake above Blanche, they just followed the trail down.

James on the summit | Looking down the south summit snowfield of Unnamed Peak | Keith on the summit
Back to the top

Tuesday was a great day to be in the mountains again, and Dan joined Keith and James for a hike up Kessler Peak (10,403). They followed a trail next to the Doughnut Falls trail up the canyon until they reached what they thought was the north route. When the trail ended after about 200 feet, they went back and continued up the canyon. After no luck finding the right trail, they just headed for the ridge dividing Cardiff Fork form the on they were in, Days Fork. Getting to the ridge was steep, but easy. Then they just followed the ridge to the summit. They all got split up near the summit, and took different ways up. After meeting on the summit, they ate, and took pictures. Since Dan had to be back for some reason, he took off while Keith and James finished eating. He also told JJames and Keith the way he came up from where they split up was easier. James and Keith went the way he told them and then found the real trail down. After following the trail the whole way down, we met up with the dirt road in Days Fork and walked back to the car. They didn't see snow the whole day, compared to the day before, where Keith and James were on snow almost all day. James and Keith found a note on James' car from Dan saying he also found the trail down. We also found an old frying pan, which joined the jug until James' dad threw them out.

Looking at the summit ridge of Kessler | Dan and James on the summit | Looking at Mt Olympus
Keith and James on the summit | Looking into Days Fork from just below the summit

The last day of peak bagging for the month, and the last peak were on Wednesday, June 30th. James and Keith climbed Red Baldy (11,171) via White Pine Canyon. This would be the last of 32 peaks to climb, and a goal finished. They started early, and made good time to the place where they cut off to head up to the ridge, then to the summit. There were a few short sections of 4th class, but the route up the ridge was easy. Just below the summit, they stopped and made it to the top at the same time. Once they got home, James' mom asked if he felt the earthquake that morning. He didn't, so she explained there was one in White Pine Canyon, near Park City, around 10:00. This was a very eerie thing, since James and Keith were in a different canyon named White Pine Canyon, and had been talking about earthquakes about the same time there really was one. The White Pine the earthquake was in was just below Silver Peak, and they were near Red Baldy in Little Cottonwood. This is still a very weird thing. After returning, they realized they forgot a camera, but it was a day that meant a lot to them, more than most other goals they had set out to achieve. A picture wouldn't bring out the feeling of achievement felt that day, anyway.
Back to the top

For the rest of the summer click below

Mountaineering 1999