EL KANTO
 
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The prominent arete that towers above
Copperhead. West facing, climb in the morning on hot days
El Kanto * (5.7 / 4, 120 ft, 2 pitches or 1
long one, small to medium pro, slings; FA Jaravata, 1992)
Start can be a fun off-width or grab the halleluja root
nestled inside the crack. The crux is after the tree:
pinch holds on a slight overhanging face. Watch out for
the ledge if you (and your pro) pop out.
El Kanto Left (5.7 / 4, 120 ft, 2 pitches or 1
long one, small to medium pro; FA Eng Chan, 1996) Follow
the left crack at the start, avoid the tree root. Rejoins
El Kanto at the ledge before the crux.
Sunset Arete * (5.11- / 6b+, 40 feet, 3 bolts,
medium pro; FA Levi Nayahangan, Guillermo , Gax Ilanan,
Gilson Chu; 11/97) Micro handholds and sloper footsies at
the crux. Third bolt added to avoid possible grounder.
B.P.L. * (5.12- / 7a, 100 feet, 6 bolts plus
chain anchors, slings; FA Gax Ilanan, Simon Sandoval;
4/98) Overhanging route with scarce holds; sustained and
exposed. Same start as El Kanto or El Kanto Left.
52.White Streak * ( 5.12+ / 7c, 30 feet, 5
bolts, 2 rap anchors, FA Gax Ilanan, Simon Sandoval
Oct 98) Ex - Long-standing project, reserved for
Francois. Amazing short bouldery route on small
crimps. Stunning location. Breath-taking top rope.
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TORRE
Past El Kanto and Copperhead, scramble uphill for a few more
minutes. South facing, best climbed during overcast days.
Torre (5.8 / 4+, 65 feet; FA Jaravata, Tan-Torres,
1/93) Hand traverse on a 5.7 section, then a slight overhang
above the first big hole.
No Left Turn ** (5.8 / 5, 90 ft., 5 bolts plus 2
anchors, medium pro, slings; FA Tan-Torres, 12/94) Slab moves at
the start and power cranks as you get higher.
New!
Gaijin (5.12-, 22m, 11 hangers, rap
anchors, FA Dennis Diaz, Marvin Ilanan, Simon Sandoval Jan 1999)-
Approach via the ledge on top of No Left Turn \endash traverse
about 10 meters to the right to th e base of the climb.
Alternatively, hike to Boogie Wall and scramble down to the
rappel anchors to the base of the route.
SLAYER
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A 5-minute uphill scramble from El
Kanto. Slayer is the imposing white wall. Slayer
** (5.10- / 5+, 80 feet, 10 bolts plus 2 hanger anchors,
slings; FA Tan-Torres, Ilanan, Imao; 5/96) Consistently
overhanging with a roof on top and a stalactite you can
play with.
Dragon Slayer Climb Slayer and continue past
stalactite to the top-most hangers.
Slayer is the c-shaped over
hanging wall on the left. Photo: S. Sandoval
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LABIA
From the parking area, cross the river and follow the trail
upstream, past nipa houses, for 15 minutes. This area might be
overgrown with vegetation.
22.Labia (5.3 / 2, 100 feet, 2 pitches, FA Gus
Guerrero, 1981)
23.Razor (5.3 / 2, 110 feet, 2 pitches, FA Bobbit
Palaganas, 1982)
BY CHANCE
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Take the same trail to El Kanto but head
uphill on a side trail about 100 meters before
Copperhead. 31.Vertigo (5.6 / 3, 25 feet; FA
Cyril Santiago, 1994)
32.Atlas (5.6 / 3, 25 feet; FA Santiago, 1994)
33.Quase'Modo (5.7 / 4, 25 feet; FA Vaca, 1994)
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COPPERHEAD and LAPA WALL
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Copperhead Past
Labia, this low (about 30 feet) crag is below the
impressive arete of El Kanto. A 15-minute walk with a
short scramble toward the end.
37.That's My Girl (5.3 / 2, 30 feet; FA Me-An
Cruz, 8/93)
38.Bloody Fingers (5.5 / 2, 30 feet; FA
Narciso, 1992)
39.Copperhead * (5.3 / 2, 30 feet; FA Vincent
Christian, 1988) Easy to toprope, ideal for beginners.
40.Bored Me (5.4 / 2, 20 feet; FA Clarin, 1994)
Lapa Wall
Right behind Copperhead (see below).
34.Unnamed (5.2 / 1, 40 feet; FA Narciso, 11/89)
35.Lapa Wall (5.2 / 1, 40 feet; FA Tan-Torres,
1984)
36.The Last Time (5.4 / 2, 40 feet; FA Narciso,
solo, 12/89) Last time Jong did a free solo.
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INNER SANCTUM
| (all topropes) Go past Copperhead then
turn left before El Kanto. Enter small cave to emerge
into the Sanctum.
41.Tanggalable (5.4 / 2, 35 ft; FA Binky de
Leon 4/96)
42.Taken (5.5 / 2, 35 ft; FA Gax Ilanan 4/96)
43. Unnamed (5.5 / 2, 35 ft; FA Kim Imao 4/96)
44.Transparent Emotions (5.4 / 2 35 ft;
FA Joel Ramirez 8/95)
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HOLY WALL
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Access via the Sanctum. 45.Threesome
(5.2 / 1, 30 ft, med. pro; FA Narciso, 4/96)
46.Black Saturday (5.3 / 2, 30 ft toprope; FA
Ross de los Santos)
47.Arete Les Amie (5.3 / 2, 30 ft, toprope; FA
Narciso 4/96)
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Last Modified : 25 March 1999.