ULING WALL

For those who do not speak Tagalog, "Uling" means coal, and when you get to the wall, you will quickly realize why local climbers have christened this wall "Uling Wall." Its severe overhang protect it from the rain - so it still climbable when it rains. The approach becomes a 5.12 climb though - a muddy slab. This place is also in the shade for most of the day - great for those summer days.

The walk to Uling Wall is one of the longer approaches in Montalban (20 to 30 minutes), but it is well worth the trek. Follow the path across the river and head towards the El Kanto area. When you get to the T-junction, keep heading uphill. Fifteen minutes and many curses later, you will have reached the overhanging Uling Wall.

Continue straight past camachile tree (instead of turning right towards Boogie Wall) for 5-10 minutes. Short overhanging wall with difficult holds. Ideal for topropes.

19.Wear Your Shades (5.7 / 4, 25 feet, toprope; FA Mike Vaca, 11/94)

20.Let's Get Rockin' (5.8 / 4+, 25 feet, toprope; FA Cyril Santiago, 11/94)

21.Enigma (5.10- / 5+, 25 feet, toprope; FA Clarin 11/94)

Born Again (Against?)

Sunday School* (5.11-, 75feet (25m), 5 bolts, slings and nuts, fixed rap anchors, FA Nana Araneta, Gax Ilanan, Dennis and Simon Sandoval 13 Sept-98) Start by gaining a small ledge below two obvious bolts above. Move up using the stalactites and traverse left to top of stalactite. Continue up to gain the small roof, avoiding steming left, to a stunning, boldery finish to the rap anchors.

Bituka

Dyslexia (5.10-, 10m, 4 bolts, 2 belay anchors, chain link rap, FA Nana Araneta & Simon Sandoval March 1999) - Second pitch climb above the obvious budge at lower Uling Wall. First pitch is still a project (very dirty pitch). The clean, white corner/arete system can be reached via an easy scramble on the right to a tree, from which a sparsely protected traverse brings one to two hanging belay anchors. From here follow the four closely spaced bolts to the chain link lower off.

UPPER ULING WALL

Continue up along the trail past Uling Wall for 3 to 5 minutes. Steep walls are in the shade the whole day. Art work on left by Taz and Carlo.

That was Superb (5.7, 60 feet, nuts, slings; FA Simon Sandoval, 11/98) Dirty start, getting much better higher up. Great view from top.

Iskaplam-plam! * (5.10- / 5+, 20 feet, big cams to up to Camalot #3.5 or 4; FA Gax Ilanan, 11/97) One of the Montalban's best cracks: an overhanging off-width. A cam bigger than a Camalot #4 would be nice for pro on the upper part of the crag, otherwise it's runout to the mantel finish (that is if you skip the bolt that was added recently for safety).

3 Stitches * (5.12+, 30 feet, 3 bolts; FA Marvin Ilanan 3/98) Only for the power-hungry and sado masochistic. Careful with the move after the last clip - the route's name has history. Possible ground fall if you miss the clips.

Frankie (5.10, 75 feet, nuts, slings, cams; FA Joey Cuerdo, 01/98) Meandering route starts at the small tree and goes up right next to the foot-like stalactite.

Snake Skins * (5.11- -three bolts, medium to large cams / hexes / slings - FA Marvin Ilanan, Simon Sandoval 23Aug98) - An excellent mixed route starting to the r ight of the tree by the base of Upper Uling wall. Follow the dicy overhanging crack upwards to gain a rest at the first stalactite. From here traverse left to clip first bolt. Follow the ice cream-like rock up to the left and get on top of it to reach final bolt. Pull through (and in the rain, a very wet, but possible) to the finish by a tree above.

Sandman (5.12- 8 bolts + chain anchors FA Dennis Diaz and Simon Sandoval 10/99)

Powder (5.10+, 7 bolts + chain anchors, FA Gax, Mackie, Simon 11/99)

Warlock (5.10+, 6 bolts + anchors. FA : Mackie, Buddy, Simon, 2/00) Follow bolts straight up to anchors right of Cafe de Wawa.

Cafe de Wawa ( 8 bolts + 2 anchors. FA Gax, Mackie and Simon 12/99)

Simon on 3 Stitches

Simon Sandoval contemplating 3 Stitches (5.12- ?) Photo: Tan-Torres

Last Modified : 25 March 1999