Three men drove away from Bristol, TN at 7am on Saturday morning.
We drove through rain, cold weather, and wind and then into sunshine, the
ten, almost eleven hours to Destin, Florida. We stopped in Knoxville
for a load of wonderful bagels (which helped to sustain us the next few
days.) Three professors, a linguist, physicist and a mathematician;
between us we could decide problems and solve riddles. We drove into
Shalimar yacht Club at 5pm and the humidity and sunshine greeted us, it
was going to be nice!
Walking the dock to the 30 foot Catalina sailboat, we were at the end
of the quay, on a large boat and the seagulls were flying with the pelicans
sitting on posts. We were ready for the adventure. The immediate
goal was to unload the food, bags and all and stow them in the ship.
This done, we explored or accommodations and claimed our space.
The ship was 30 feet of sailboat. It had (beginning in
the bow, going around the port side, the stern and then up the starboard
side to the bow again) a v-berth in the bow, a head, a dining table and
settee (with cabinets and shelf space above this area), a galley with a
sink, drain board, gimbaled stove (propane), refrigerator, some stowage
and drawers, then the companionway with a 3 step ladder. Underneath
the cockpit were a sleeping/sitting area (where I slept quite comfortably
except for hitting my head each time I sat down), then the navigation table,
a settee (with cabinets and shelves above this area), and a dresser across
from the head. It had much area and I was impressed with the boat.
We figured out the head (needing to hand pump to empty it), we made our
way, around the boat and began to consider dinner.
As we stepped up from the boat to the quay, the temperature had
dropped considerably since the sun had set. Clouds were thickening
and it was cold. We drove to a restaurant suggested by the marina
master, the Steam Bay. I got a large (very large) plate of all the
various kinds of seafood I could ever desire. I ate shrimp, oysters,
clams, and crab. I ate so much that I enjoyed it and then enjoyed
it more. It was absolutely wonderful food. All fresh and steamed.
We left to drove back to the boat full and ready to sleep.
By 10:30 Saturday evening, it was beginning to grow stormy.
Lightening and thunder was heard above the water hitting the hull.
There were some leaks at the portholes and the companionway as the rain
poured all night. The boat rocked, water streamed
passed the hull (I awoke hearing this water and my mind told me it was
inside the ship, I had to feel the floor to convince myself it was dry),
and all this movement gently rocked us to sleep. I felt no fear through
this, although somewhere in the night I felt a little queasy with this
movement. I slept little and the morning came but no dawn.
The movement of the boat affected each of us. We quickly
got used to this movement and then on land felt the earth or room moving
with the gently sway of the ship. Even as I sit here in my home (having
been off the boat 24 hours) my head moves and my body feels like it is
swaying with the boat. (Aside: to rent the slip there was $8
per foot, or $240 per month.)
Sunday came and we compared notes of the previous night.
Winds were 25 mph (gusting to 30), waves were 2 feet at times, and we each
had slept very fitfully. I smiled through the night at just the grand
opportunity of finally sleeping on a sailboat on blue water and loving
every minute of it!
I rose a little early and dressed, stopping at the boathouse.
I took a walk down the road, enjoying the great Sunday morning. I
walked to the end of the road and decided to buy coffee for my shipmates
and me. We had looked all over the boat to find the bottled propane
so we could turn on the stove, heat up some water and have a hot drink.
But we could not discover the hiding place. So, needing morning coffee,
I bought it, carried it back to the boat and surprised my companions with
the waking smell of caffeine.
As we drank, the wind was singing through the halyards, tarpaulins,
around the mast and off the deck. It whistles by but we were safe,
dry, warm and comfortable. The pelicans glided by as we talked, woke
up and considered the day. We showered (at the boathouse), dressed
and cleaned up the cabin. We finally found the handbook to the boat
and discovered the hiding place of the propane. Turning the knob
we still did not have fire. We read, waiting for the weather to clear
and the owner to stop by to show us the key elements of the boat and sign
the contract.
The owner stopped by, showed us the electrical switch (marker
refrigeration) to turn to begin the propane pump; thus we now had fire
and hot drinks! He also showed us the sailing components and we went
over the chart of the area. He left and we wanted to go out.
The air temperature was 30F and the wind-chill was at the warmest, 25F.
It was windy, whitecaps were on the waves and we were not confident to
take the boat out for the first time in such weather. It was too
cold and unruly to go out.
We drove to Destin, FL and explored some dock area, the bridge
we would have to go under to go into open water, and the bay we were planning
on sailing in. We returned to the boat for lunch (hoping the weather
had changed, it had, having gotten much worse.) We went to a move
(Godsford Park). We joked about driving 11 hours to Florida, paying
an expensive price for a boat, just to go to a movie!
Throughout the weekend the physicist and the mathematician would
have wonderful conversations about the areas of study. I listened
to most of this, fascinated at what they were saying. I seemed to
understand little, but it was very interesting to grasp some their dialogues
on science, math questions, problems in physics and areas of thought I
never consider. I was not intimidated, and I truly enjoyed branching
out from my language background.
We drove into Niceville and had wonderful pecan covered Grouper.
We read as the evening passed and slowly got sleepy. We did not want
to go to bed too early as we would awake early and the wind would still
be cold. All night, this second night, the wind blew, it got down
to 19F, and the water slipped arou8nd the hull. The boat heeled (tilted)
some and we had to walk on a slant. We hoped earnestly for sailing
the next day, our final day full day.
We awoke and it was so cozy in my mummy sleeping bag. Outside
was a storm of wind, waves, and cold. I awoke at 4 am to a fierce
wind blowing the boat around. I listened to the 6am news and it was
a cold wind-chill of 19, with hope of clearing skies and warmer air by
noon. We drank coffee, ate bagels and Ray went to take a shower.
He ran quickly back saying it was too cold and no way was he going to shower
in this. So we dressed. We read some but the boat was cold
(the little ceramic heater would not warm us sufficiently). We decided
to go to Denny’s for warmth, to read and eat some. We drove there,
ran in and sat for a few hours. We talked, read, drank coffee and
had a nice breakfast. We knew this was our final day to sail and
we were definite that we would at least motor out and get the boat out
of the slip before we left.
By mid-morning it was still cold and we explored the Air Force
Museum at Eglin Air Force Base to waste some time and wait for the promised
(according to the news) warmer weather to come. We returned to the
boat about noon and decided although it was still below freezing, we would
go out.
The adventure had been great thus far. I was enjoying it.
I was getting the opportunity to live aboard a nice sailboat and check
out if this was what I really desired to do. I had thought a 30’
boat would be too big for me to handle, but I learned through these days,
that I could handle her and there was plenty of room on board for one or
two to actually live quite comfortably. I discovered I was not seasick
at all, but enjoying the swaying of the boat.
We dressed in all our clothes, unhooked the power cord (and thus
the electric heater) and cast off. We motored out into the bay.
It was lovely. Cold, yes, but we were doing (almost) what we wanted
to do. We were taking this 30-foot boat out under our control and
knowledge. The wind was intense (25 knots), so we did not raise sail,
but got the feel of the boat and found out how she handled. We were
out for 75 minutes. Turning around the come home, we were in the
wind and I was at the helm. It was very cold. I steered
through whitecaps and kept her on course. Some dolphins were out
and the ever present gulls. We were excited that we could “really”
do this and although cold, we were happy. Getting really cold going
in some thoughts crossed my mind that we should just get a hotel room and
get warm! There was concern about how to tie up, but this went well,
the power was attached, the heater on, and we congratulated each other.
Success! We ate sandwiches and watched the sky finally clear of clouds,
the winds die some and the temperatures rose. We were ready to go
out again, but to sail this time.
For three hours we were out sailing. We sailed about 4
miles, doing figure eights, sailing with a reefed main and a half furled
jib. We were in control and happy. We each took turns at the
helm, took pictures, laughed, enjoyed and then walked into the cabin to
get out of the wind (a nice change). We saw dolphins, loons (even
heard a loon call for the very first time in my life!), pelicans, and gulls.
I stood at the mast and felt the power and pleasure of the boat.
I lay on the bow and watched the bow wave as we surged through the water.
I sat amidships feeling the ship, wind, power and ocean. I steered,
watching the wind direction, wind in the sails, daymarks and depth.
I was below decks as we turned and it was so strange to see the world go
by outside of a porthole. We took photos. We returned as the
sun was going down. We lassoed the pilings, tied up and had some
neighbors take some photos of us. We were gloriously happy!
We cleaned up, as it was warm enough to take showers. We went out
for dinner and one more night of seafood.
Walking back to the boat from the car, the stars were bright;
I named some. The water was calm, even glassy. We slept the
final night on the boat and the sleep was deep and earned. Up, the
sun was shining warm. We left the boat (reluctantly) at 8:30 and
drove to Tallahassee, FL. We then drove the eleven hours home to
Bristol; I arrived home at 11pm. I was tired, my head still moving
with the swaying of the boat, but OH, so happy!