Spicing it up with Ajís.
The Peruvian Ají Pepper Exposed!
By Stefan Bederski and Thomas J. Payne
Photography by John Edwards
Imagine taking part in the Pachamanca, a festive event common in the Coastal and Andean regions of Peru. The ritual begins when a hole is dug in the earth and then a fire built inside to heat stones. These hot stones are later covered with banana leaves in preparation for cooking meat such as pork, chicken, lamb, guinea pig and beef as well as vegetables like potatoes, sweet potatoes and corn. Before these foods are placed inside the makeshift oven and covered with soil, they are seasoned with spices such as pepper, cilantro, huacatay and a lot of ají, then wrapped in banana leaves and cloth and left to slow cook for the next six to eight hours. The celebration doesn't end until the last stomach is fully satisfied.
Since about 2,500 B.C., ajís, a general term for chile peppers in South America, have been a part of Peruvian culture. They were worshipped by the Incas and are immortalized in fine pottery and jewelry. Today they are central to traditional dishes such as civeche (raw seafood marinated in limejuice) and cau (tripe and potatoes) and come in a variety of flavors, shapes, colors and pungencies. Other countries in South America, namely Bolivia and Ecuador, have also witnessed the birth of many wild Capsicum species, and regard them as key cultural attributes.
Ajís are cultivated in all geographical regions of Peru: The Coast, the Andes and the Amazon Jungle. These rich agricultural regions boast over 300 varieties of ají, and the most common are 'Ají Amarillo' (C. baccatum, also called Cuzqueño, Escabeche or Kellu-uchu), Rocoto (C. pubescens, also known as Peruvian) and dried versions of 'Ají Panca' (C. frutescens) and 'Ají Mirasol' (C.,baccatum).
Most Peruvian ajís are not commercially cultivated but are grown in small farms or private backyards, which supply nearly all of the varieties found in the Peruvian markets. The 'Ají Panca' is one of these. Known for its distinct flavor and dark color, it is the most popular choice for making sauces, stews and fish dishes.
Other ají varieties are differentiated by their pungency and appearance. If you think that the habañero is hot, try the 'Pinguita de Mono', 'Ají Limo' or 'Ají Montana'. In spite of their heat, these smaller varieties impart a singular flavor to food.
