N W F P
Peshawar is the Capital of North West
Frontier Province. The
valleys of the main streams and their tributaries exhibit similar feature
and consist of flat plains of alluvial soil in the centre, with a pebbly
slope of varying length rising on either sides of the mountains. It is
from these pebbly beds that the supply of water for irrigation is chiefly
obtained through Karezes. Zhob, Bloan and their tributaries have formed
two important alluvial basins of Balochistan, namely, the Lorlai basin and
Quetta basin, which together produce a major portion of Balochistan's
crops and fruits: wheat, barley, maize, lucerne, potato, apple, apricot,
peach,almond, grape and pomegranate. Kalat Plateau at 7,000-8,000 ft.
(2,135-2,440 m), in the centre of Balochistan is the most important
plateau.
The
largest desert is found in western Balochistan. This is an area of inland
drainage and dry lakes (hamuns), the largest of which is Hamun-i-Mashkhel,
which is 54 miles long and 22 miles wide. The surface is littered with
sun-cracked clay, oxidized pebbles, salty marshes and crescent-shaped
movisng sand dunes. The area is known particularly for its constant mirage
and sudden severe sand-storms. Being outside the sphere of monsoon
current, Balochistan receives scanty and irregular rainfall (4 inches);
the temperature is very high in summer and very low in winter.
Owing to continuous draught, there is very little vegetation. Most of the
people, therefore, lead nomadic life, raising camels, sheep and goats.
Balochistan is, however, fortunate to have considerable mineral wealth of
natural gas, coal, chromite, lead, sulphur and marble. The reserves of
natural gas at Sui are among the largest in the world. The gas is piped to
Karachi, Hyderabad, Sukkur, Multan, Faisalabad, Lahore, Rawalpindi and
Quetta for use as industrial power.
The Karakoram Highway
The Karakoram Highway, or KKH, is the greatest wonder of modern Pakistan and
one of the most spectacular roads in the world. Connecting Pakistan to China, it
twists through three great mountain ranges - the Himalaya, Karakoram and Pamir -
following one of the ancient silk routes along the valleys of the Indus, Gilgit
and Hunza rivers to the Chinese border at the Khunjerab Pass. It then crosses
the high Central Asian plateau before winding down through the Pamirs to Kashgar,
at the western edge of the Taklamakan Desert. By this route, Chinese silks,
ceramics, lacquer-work, bronze, iron, furs and spices travelled West, while the
wool, linen, ivory, gold, silver, precious and semi-precious stones, asbestos
and glass of South Asia and the West travelled East.
For much of its 1,284 kms (905 miles), the Karakoram Highway is overshadowed by
towering, barren mountains, a high altitude desert enjoying less than 100
millimeters (four inches) of rain a year. In many of the gorges through which it
passes, it rides a shelf cut into a sheer cliff face as high as 500 meters
(1,600 feet) above the river. The KKH has opened up remote villages where little
has changed in hundreds of years, where farmers irrigate tiny terraces to grow
small patches of wheat, barely or maize that stand out like emeralds against the
grey, stony mountains. The highway is an incredible feat of engineering and an
enduring monuments to the 810 Pakistanis and 82 Chinese who died forcing it
through what is probably the world's most difficult and unstable terrain. (The
unofficial death toll is somewhat higher, coming to nearly one life for each
kilometre of road).
The Karakoram and the Himalaya, the newest mountain ranges in the world, began
to form some 5 million years ago when the Indian sub-continent drifted
northwards and rammed into the Asian land mass. By this time the dinosaurs were
already extinct. India is still trundling northwards at the geologically
reckless rate of five centimeters (two inches) a year, and the mountains are
still growing by about seven millimeters (1/4 of an inch), annually. the KKH
runs through the middle of this collision lbelt, where there is an earth tremor,
on average, every three minutes.
Karakoram is Turkish for 'crumbling rock', an apt description for the giant,
grey, snow-capped slag heaps that tower above the gorges cut between them.
The Indus River flows northwest, dividing the Himalaya from the Karakoram,
before being knocked south by the Hindu Kush. the KKH hugs the banks of the
Indus for 310 kilometres of its climb north, winding around the foot of Nanaga
Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world and the western anchor of the
Himalaya. The highway then leaves the Indus for the Gilgit, Hunza and Khunjerab
rivers to take on the Karakoram Range, which boat 12 of the 30 highest mountains
in the world. By the time the road reaches the 4,733 mere (15,528 foot).
Khunjerab Pass, it has earned the name of the highest metalled border crossing
in the world.
Gilgit
At an elevation of 1453.90 meter lies the Gilgit valley, offers spectacular
scenic beauty. It is surrounded by lakes, rivers, glaciers and high mountains
ranges. Some of them world's largest peaks, such as Nanga Parbat, 8125 meter and
Raka Poshi, 7788 meter are located here. The best season to visit is from May to
mid October. The local dialect is Shina, however, Urdu and English are also
spoken and understood.
Places of Interest
Buddhist Rock Carvings carved out of the mountain side are worth paying a
visit. It is about 10 kms away from Gilgit and the distance is covered in about
20 minutes in a jeep.
The Victory Monument of Taj Mughal was built about 700 years ago and lies at a
distance of 11 kms from Gilgit and it takes about 25 minutes by jeep to get
there.
Karimabad
Miles and miles of terraced fields and fruit orchards mark Karimabad, the
capital of Hunza Valley. It offers a panoramic view of the Rakaposhi, Ultar and
Balimo peaks. It is 112 kms from Gilgit and it takes a jeep about 3 hours to
cover the distance.
Punial
Sher Qila is the main village of the picturesque Punial valley. The distance
is 40 kms and time required to reach there is about 2 hours.
Singal
This spot in the Punial valley offers ideal trout fishing opportunities. It
is 56 kms away and takes 3 hours to get there.
Yasin
A valley providing ideal opportunities for hiking and trekking, it lies at
distance of 160 kms and the jeep journey requires about 7 hours.
Phandar
This picturesque area has a lake which abounds in trout. It is about 177 kms
away and the time required to get there is about 8 hours.
Shandur Pass
This 1250 feet long pass connects Gilgit to Chitral. The pass remains
snow-bound during winters. It is 250 kms and 15 hours away by jeep.
Rama
A lake in this region offers an awe-inspiring view of the eastern side of
Nanga Parbat, 8126 meters high. It is 120 kms away and takes 6 hours to get
there.
For the adventure-loving tourist, hiker, angler, art-lover, mountaineer or polo
enthusiast, there are few places in the world that could compare with Gilgit.
Naltar
Naltar is the loveliest fully-day outing from Gilgit. About a two-hour drive
away, it is an area of alpine meadows and pine forests 3,000 meters (10,000
feet) above sea level and surrounded by snow-capped mountains. the road up from
Nomal climbs steeply through a rocky gorge to emerge on the fertile,
high-altitude pastures. Those who wish to stay can choose among the Public Works
Department rest-house, the very basic local hotel, or camping. Naltar is the
perfect base for gentle walks through the forest or up to Naltar Lake, where the
fishing is excellent. The village is also the starting point for more energetic
treks across the 4,000 (13,000 foot). Naltar Pass to the Ishkoman Valley, or
across the 4,800 meter (15,700 feet). Daintar Pass to Chalt. The two ski-lifts
at Naltar are reserved for army use.
Baltit Fort
The Baltit Fort is a kilometer away from Karimabad. It was built 700 years
ago by 300 labourers broght to Hunza in the dowry of the Princess of Baltistan
when she married Mir of Hunza. The area is anmed Baltit after those labourers.
Over the ceunturesd it has been inhabited by the ruling family of the Hunza
State.
Buddhist Rock Carving
The rock carving and inscriptions around Ganesh village give proof of the
Buddhist influence in the area. The inscriptions are in four different scripts
and the carvings are of human and animals figures.
Batura, Passu, Hopper, Hisper Glacier
Batura Passu glacier is 35 kms from Karimabad while the Hopper and Hisper
glaciers are 25 kms away. The journey takes two hours by jeep and ther last two
kilometers have to be travelled on foot.
Altit Fort
Altit fort is situated in the village of Altit about three kilometers from
Karimbabd. It has been built on a sheer rock cliff that falls 300 metres (1,000
feet) inti the Indus river. The fort is a 100 years older than the Baltit Fort
and weas at one time inhabited by the ruling family.
Ultar Peak
The Ultar peak known as the killer mountain is the only un-conquered peak.
Nagar
Nagar, the large kingdom across the river from Hunza, was possibly first
settled by people from Baltistan who arrived over the mountains by walking along
the Biafo and Hispar glaciers. It was settled again in about the 14th century by
Hunzakuts who crossed the river. A man called Borosh from Hunza suposedly
founded the first village of Boroshal, and married a Balti girl he found there.
The legend says the girl and her grandmother were the sole survivors of a
landslide that killed all the early Balti settlers.
Nagar is entered by the jeep road that leaves the KKH just beyond the Ganesh
bridge across the Hunza River. The first five kilometres (three miles) of this
road are dry and barren, then the road divides. Once branch of crosses the
Hispar River on a bridge and climbs up into the fertile villages of central
Nagar, where many kilometres of irrigation channels provide pleasant walks
through fields and villages right up to the last village of Hoper. You can get
here by public transpsort from Aliabad in Hunza, which leaves most days for
Nagar, and occasionally continues to Hopar.
The Ruby Mines
The Ruby Mines of Hunza are also nearby. A sales centre is located at Aliabad
who sale precious and semi-precious stones and jewellery.
The KKH Beyond Karimabad
The KKH is at its most spectacular between Ganesh and Gulmit. The road rides
high on the eastern side of the river, twisting and turning round the barren
foot of the Hispar Range, which boasts six peaks over 7,000 metres (23,000
feet). On the opposite bank, villages cling implausibly to the side of the 7,388
metre (24,240 foot) Ultar Mountain. Between the villages, grey screen slithers
down to the river, looking in the distance like piles of find cigarette ash.
Above, the jagged teeth along the ridge hide the highest snow-covered peaks from
view.
The KKH crosses back to the west bank at Shishkot Bridge, from which the view
upstream of the serrated ridge of mountains above the river is one of the most
photogenic prospects of the entire drive. From here to Tashkurgan in China the
people speak Wakhi.
Gulmit
Eight kms (five miles) past the bridge, is a fertile plateau 2,500 metres (8,200
feet) high, with irrigated fields on either side of the road. This is a good
place to spend a night or two, marking the halfway point between Gilgit and the
Khunjerab Pass. The small museum here belongs to the prince, Raja Bahadur Khan,
and is full of interesting ethnic artifacts. And two of the hotels here belong
to Mirzada Shah Khan, hero of the 1947 mutiny.
The rock and gravel covered Ghilkin Glacier comes right down to the road about
one kilometre (just ovr half a mile) past Gulmit. The road crosses the snout of
the glacier at the very edge of the river, then climbs up on to the lateral
moraine - a great, grey slag heap. About five kilometeres (three miles) furtehr
on, you round a corner to find Passu Glacier straight ahead. It is shining white
and deply crevased - just as you would expect a glacier to look. Above the
glacier to the left is the jagged line of the Passu and Batua peaks, seven of
which are over 7,500 metres (25,000 feet). On the opposite side of the river,
which you can cross over a terrifying footbridge, the valley is hemmed in by a
half-circle of saw-toothed summits, down the flanks of which slide grey alluvial
fans.
Passu is a village of farmers and mountain guides 15 kilometres (nine miles)
beyond Gulmit. This is the setting-off point for climbing expeditions up the
Batura, Passu, Kurk and Lupgar groups of peaks, and for trekking trips up the
Shimshal Valley and Batura Glacier. The Passu Inn, right beside the road, is the
meeting place for mountaineers and guides.
The KKH pases through four more villages before reaching the immigration and
customs post at Sost, 33 kilometres (21 miles) from Passu. Outgoing traffic must
pass through Sost before 11 am. It is a four-or-five hour drive from here to
Tashkurgan, and you must allow time for clering Chinese customs and immigration
to kilometres before Tashkurgan (moved down from Pirali). The time difference
between China and Pakistan is three hours, so it will be around 7 to 8 pm
Chinese time before you arrive in Tashkurgan. Incoming traffic is processed
until 4 pm Pakistani time, 7 pm Chinese time.
From Sost to Tashkurgan
PTDC and NATCO run daily buses from Sost to Tashkurgan, for Rs. (about US $ 23).
For the first 30 kilometres (19 miles) from Sost, the valley is narrow and
barren, the cliff-face shattered into huge cubes and slabs that peel off and
tumble down to the road, where they lie like forgotten building blocks belonging
tol giant children. The road leaves the Hunza for the Khunjerab River, and there
is more of the same, with alluvial fans flowing down every gully, frequently
blocking the way.
Khunjerab National Park begins 30 kilometres (19 miles) from Sost. The hills
move back from the road, the valley opens out and the Khunjerab River dwindles
to a tiny mountain stream with the odd tuft of grass, willow or birch along its
banks.
The check-post at Dih consists of six lonely stone houes. The last 30 kilometres
(19 miles) to the top of the pass are easier driving, as there is less mountain
above and the slopes are gentler. The road follows the banks of the stram before
winding up round 12 wide, well-engineered hairpin bends to the top.
The Khunjerab Pass, at 4,733 metres (15,528 feet), is reputedly the highest
metalled bord.
