This page was last updated on Wednesday, 19 July 2000.

Scottish Holiday

We went to Scotland for 2 weeks. The plan was to go to two SCA events, ID Summer Tourney, in Hurstbourne Priors, and Warbands, at Edzell Castle, and enjoy the sights on the drive between.
Tricia spent time making a rope farthingale instead of packing so at 9:00am no packing had been done. But we were also waiting for our new camera to be couriered to us. It was meant to be delivered on Friday morning but didn't arrive. So Tricia spent a stressful afternoon chasing up the insurance company.

We leave sunny London and drive into a cloudy day at Hurstbourne Priors, arriving about 1:00pm. We settle in to watch the fighting which is well underway. We chat to people,have lunch, and Tricia gets lightly sunburned. The fighting takes ages and doesn't finish until after 5:30 (there were 3 separate tournaments, the last with 19 rounds) Sir Jurgen and Peregrine McKay compete in the final, Sir Jurgen wins. We then leave to find our B&B and to get changed. Tricia was running a little late (again), meaning we returned to find the feast half over, luckily we are in time for the roasted pork, yum. In Court afterwards there are lots of awards, and Peregrine becomes a member of the Silver Guard. We leave soon afterwards because Zane is tired (only 36 hours awake) and I have a headache.


In the morning we depart the B&B, only to return for Tricia's forgotten book, and then wend our way back for the Sunday events - tourneys for the light fighters. Unfortunately they appear to be so sparse that the rounds are over in a blink of an eye, especially compared to the vast hordes of heavies yesterday. We chat, and pop off to the Hurstbourne Priors pub for lunch and some liquid refreshment. Although Zane was tired, we had organised to meet Derek in Nottingham, and he takes us to a nice French restaurant (La Rouge), the oldest pub in Nottingham (Trip to Jerusalem Inn - great atmosphere, hewn from living rock), the possible oldest pub in Nottingham (Salutation Inn - does every pub have caves here?!) and a brief tour of the city centre.


Next day has us closer to our objective, York. What amazed me was the stupendous number of trucks (big 18 wheeler jobs), this of course decreased traffic flow, but a sight almost as amazing as some of the ruins you see (sunlight glinting off the windscreens, giblets gently dripping from the majestic mudguads etc). The afternoon passed swiftly with shopping, the Minster Cathedral, the Nottingham Museum (well laid out, sad gift shop), and the gardens. It really is a pleasant town, so we'll have to be back sometime.


Tuesday and time to visit York's surrounds. Ripley Castle was interesting, although they must have been disarmed in the civil war (they were Royalists) as there seemed a distinct lack of weapons, and the few bits of armour all seemed damaged. Lunch in the local pub (The Boars Head - the symbol of the Ingilby family) to dodge the rain. Then a short zip to Fountains Abbey, a massive ruined cathedral. Truly an amazing sight, the tour guide was pretty good, but the rest of the site was disappointing (Water Gardens, etc). I failed to photograph ravens, squirrels, a rabbit, and some very busy bees. That sucked up the rest of the afternoon, so we headed back to York via a more scenic route, and dropped into a supermarket-type area to look around and obtain some supplies.


Trying to get more done, we headed off earlier and headed to Skipton for the big castle (supposedly the best condition castle in England), and then a short way to Riddleston Hall, which was mainly 17th century stuff. Nice furniture though.


Shorts-time I decided, as it was as sunny as England seems to get. First up was Howard Castle (really a manor house), lots of shiny things, better than I thought. Then Rivaulx Abbey, and Rivaulx Terrace. The Abbey had a very good museum/display explaining the Cisterian monks etc. Probably should have gone here before Fountains, no human guides though, just the Walkman ones. The abbey was also larger and just as phenomenally picturesque. The Terrace and "gardens" were not as exciting, the eating room had some groovy Greek paintings


New day, old stuff, Hadrians Wall. We started at the old roman fort of Chester's, everything is all foundations, but then again it is 1900 years old! The museum was basically rows of alter stones and not very imaginatively presented. The were however some colour pictures of Romans doing roman things, the best things in the museum. Outside there were lots of sheep, and as usual it was overcast and threatening rain. When it actually started to rain we went and had a late lunch in a nearby pub (The Wall), and noticed the same pictures from the museum on the walls. They served a phenomenal amount of food, and had a real log fire going.


Wahoo, re-enactor day at Carlise Castle. We walked down from the B&B (which Zane liked). In-between some really interesting displays we toured the castle which had re-enactors from various periods camped out.. By and far the Romans were the best and Zane even has a photo of a roman legionnaire posing in front of British armoured car. We left about 3:00 and had a snooze then went to dinner in Almonds the bistro attached to the B&B. I felt the food was very average but we did have a delicious bottle of wine, a Gewerts from South Africa.


On Sunday we got up early to make a quick start but they had not dried our washing so we had to wait for it. Then we travelled north stopping at Warkworth. A very large ruined castle, we used the guide book to do a self tour, the castle had two floors open and lots of stairways and little passages which kids also at the castle loved. It was disappointing that the third floor was closed. We then drove to Alnwick and had lunch at a local Hotel next to the money machine. A bad experience, the service was poor and there were lots of babies there. After assuaging our hunger pangs (and avoiding migraines) we visited, Alnwick Castle. The carved and gilded ceilings are a feature of the truly sumptuous decoration, which became sickening in its overt display of extreme wealth. The library was fitted inn golden wood and gold brocades but remained very historical, and light, a lovely place to read. We saw some amazing furniture, and paintings by famous artists, and part of a propaganda video on fox hunting and feudal overlordship. It was getting late so we travelled on, stopping on the way to look in at a Pele Tower, or fortified farm house, run on an honour system in Preston.


Tricia's birthday day, we roved around the B&B, first off we checked the tide at Holy Island, and decided to visit it later in the day. So instead we went to Norham castle, which was a ruin but had a really good audio tour. Afterward, since it was on our path we made a brief sidetrip to the memorial at Flodden fields. We arrived at Chessingham just on opening time (12:00), this castle turned out to be one step up from a ruin and was just like a mansion-sized, small town antique shop. However the garden and grounds had been restored, there was a lovely forest walk where we could hear the sweet sound of many birds, and a more formal hedged pattern garden with a traditional English border. An azalea border in full bloom looked fantastic. We hit the road again, this time to visit Bamburgh Castle. A very large and imposing castle with some sumptuously decorated rooms, as well as two with a very nice collections of armour and weapons. However because we had to get back to Holy Island, due to the tides, we couldn't dawdle. It was REALLY windy at Lindisfarne (abbey ruins) and eventually we were driven inside. There was a great cross at the front of the ruin with lots of celtic knot work on it. Except for the gospels, the displays inside were really disappointing, but there was a good time line display and shop.


Leaving Lowick, we headed to Jedburgh for the Abbey, and Mary's (Queen of Scots) house. This was well presented, with modern info panels, and some "period" rooms. Lots of good info on her life and death. Did two gardens at Melrose, suitably picturesque. Finally on to Stirling for the evening. Being a little late, we had a brief look about town, and went to the cinema to see a brutalised, Americanised version of Battlefield Earth. I was very disappointed in it's lack of intelligence, and the increase of guns/explosions/"car" chases.


Argyll's house, and Stirling Castle were the two planned trips for the day. I didn't even have to drive as things were so close. Argyll's house had some very nicely outfitted rooms - made to look late 1600's. The great hall, and the lord's audience chamber were especially good. Stirling was massive and impressive. Seems as though the later period updates have overshadowed the (for me) more interesting earlier building, but still lots has been reconstructed or unmodernised. The introductory display is quite nifty, and there is even a wee play area as you enter!


Off once more, and starting to feel OD'ed, to Dunne Castle. This is quite well restored, with additional work being carried out. It is also the castle that was used in the "taunting French" skit from The Quest for the Holy Grail. I looked but couldn't find any Trojan Rabbits, the gift shop is the only heritage shop I have yet seen that sells Monty Python memorabilia. After such delights it was thought a scenic drive past numerous lochs would be relaxing. This proved so, and we stopped beside Loch Lomond a couple of times. Then on to Drummond Garden (which I don't remember at all), and Huntington Tower, with a final stop in Perth (to a real fancy B&B).


Saving the best till last, we did Scone Palace (loads of cool stuff - like most manors with a Scottish slant), then Glamis (rich and in mint condition), with a final effort to flop down in Edzell for the night. Warbands followed, with much fighting and frivolity. I finally authorised in light fighting (it's been a while, but I enjoyed it greatly), and fought in the strays for the castle assault. The feast was ok, but very slow appearing.


And that was that, a mammoth session to drive back to London, with work that night (fortunately it was quiet) and numerous photos to develop - these will be added soon.....

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