As we near Oudtshoorn, we begin to pass the large ostrich farms for which the area is renowned. Originally bred for the feathers that adorned the hats of vain women at the turn of the last century, ostriches are now a serious cash crop for their leather and meat. Besides that, the only industry in town is tourism. Every third shop offers the discerning tourist painted ostrich eggs and keyrings cunningly fashioned from the dried middle toenails of ostriches. Apparently, an ostrich can kill a man with one kick, using said toenail. Personally I'd feel safer with a can of mace on my keyring. Arriving mid-afternoon at the Rock Art Café we meet Rob, who co-owns the club. Even now, it is 34 degrees and it takes only 10 minutes in the sun for my arms to burn bright red. We have a choice of two stages outside (a large courtyard, with brightly painted walls, an open central fireplace and a covered verandah running down the one side, attached to the bar itself). Or we can use the stage inside. We opt for indoors - a smaller more intimate venue - in anticipation of a smaller Saturday night crowd, fatigued by Friday night's excesses. This proves to be a good call - South African socializing patterns are pretty much the same no matter how big or small the town! Eventually, we get under way with the first of three (!) sets. As we only have enough material for two sets, we pad out our offering by playing an extended version of Ode, including Jammez (for the first time live since its appearance as an instrumental in the old Gringolene repertoire), jamming on a new song (presently under construction) and kicking off the repeat-laden third set with a space-blues jam. It all goes down rather well. In fact, the small but lively crowd loves it. We round off with a repeat of Summer Sun, specially for Rob. Afterwards, we get trashed with Nathan, who has a local band called Boy, and his fellow players, then it's back to the house.
Absolutely awesome hospitality. Rose and Eugene are the founders of the Rock Art and true friends of South African music. Putting up visiting bands at their own expense in exquisitely converted stables attached to their 1910 house, they are the very best kind of people - friendly, generous and good company. I note an entry in their guest book by Valiant Swart, who has stayed there recently. Under Comments, there is one word: Onbefokkenlooflik. |
