Weston Master II Repair Report
(1) dirty and rusty
(2) needle does not repond to light at all
© refinder 04/09/2006
Getting To The Needle Movement
In order to remvoe the front cover, i had to remove the back cover first. In order to remove the abck cover, the name plate needs to be removed first. these two are the name plate screws.
With the back cover off, two brass screws, with serrated head but no slot, are revealed. These are the ones securing the back cover. Remove them.
Lift the back cover a little at the bottom of the meter. the gasket inside may have become sticky and sort of holding the back cover down. It does not require much force to lift for my Master II. Lifting just a little bit, because the top end is held with two brass pins. With the bottom end lifted a little, slide the back cover off towards the top of the meter. Please note, as YYY pointed out, the chrome trim is on the back cover, not the meter body.
With the back taken off,the meter looks like this. The meter movement can be seen. The light baffle is free to be removed, and two brass screws holding the front cover are also revealed.
One of the brass pins that hold the back cover down at the top of the meter. Be careful with them, they are loose and may fall.
The brass pin looks like this when attached to the bottom cover, as opposed to the meter body.
The light baffle can be remove by just lifting it off.
To remove the front cover, take out these three screws.
The front cover can be lifted off now. Be careful with this little spring, it is the one that pushes on the film speed set button, and is loose. Again, the chrome trim is not on the meter body, but on the front cover.
The window glass is held down with four metal brackets, so it will not fall down onto the light scale and needle.
To get to the selenium cell, the light scale needs to be removed. Remove these two nuts, one on each side. The spring washers under the nuts have stuck to the light scale on my meter, and loosening the nuts peeled some of the black paint off.
At this point, although there is nothing holding down the light scale plate, it still cannot be removed, because the needle is in the way. We'll need to clear the needle. So take this screw out to facilitate the lifting of the whole meter movement.
The meter movement and the magnet are one unit, held in place by these two screws. Loosen them a little, in order to...
...clear the needle, when removing the light scale.
With the light scale plate off, he light value plate under it can now be lifted off.
A metal plate with six flathead screws, two posts, and two other screws, one of which has already been removed earlier, are revealed.
Remove all of these screws and posts. This metal plate can then be removed, revealing a star shaped pressure plate. Directly underneath, is the back of the selenium cell. It is a steal or iron plate backing, upon which selenium is deposited, and this plate becomes the positive terminal of the selenium photovoltaic cell. As seen in the photo, it is rather rusty.
From here, everything is free to be removed, for cleaning and/or replacing.
This is the light receiving side of the selenium photovoltaic cell. The ring shape on it is the negative terminal of the cell, made from depositing some sort of metal.
The negative connection is made through this brass ring, which is soldered to a lead coming out of the needle coil.
A metal ring, the light grid, and the glass with many little lenses are remvoed from the meter body.
Before disassembling, some black debris could be seen behind the glass over the selenium cell. They are from chipped black paint on the light grid.
Fixing The Problem
it turns out that the wire coming out of the coil and going to the needle was broken. don't know what's the cause. it was so fine, much finer than a piece of human hair, and i could hardly see it. i cleaned the broken ends as best as i could, and soldered them together. then, tapped the two electrical contact points with my multimeter probes. the needle moved!

putting every thing back after a good cleaning of the parts, its outdoor reading seems to be reasonable, 1/100 f11, sunny morning.
solved one problem, created another. now is the needle is not balanced anymore, because of the extra amount of solder resulting from the soldering job. so i adjusted these two pieces of twisted wires on the back end of the needle to re-balance it.