I picked Shrewsbury as my "base" for my precious few days in Shropshire for three reasons - 1) It's a town of substantial size [which meant decent food and lodging options], 2) I had heard via word-of-mouth on-line guides (now defunct) that the pubs here were numerous and worth visiting, for both the quality of ale and architecture, and 3) I'd heard [and read on the Shropshire Visitors Guide that it was one of the better-preserved Tudor-style towns in England.
On all 3 counts, I was not disappointed. While I didn't get to sample many of the better restaurants around town (and survived mostly on average pub-fayre), I was only able to sample perhaps a quarter of Shrewsbury's many pubs, and barely scratched the surface of those in the outer neighborhoods (Frankwell, Mardol, Abbey Forgate, Port Hill, Swan Hill, etc). The Centre of Shrewsbury, while it has a small city feel, has a lot of ground to cover.
No.2 - Old Plough, on The Square
Arriving in Shrewsbury Station mid-day, I checked myself into the Lion and Pheasant Hotel (highly recommended - the single rooms are small, but the owner is very accomodating) down the street, and wandered back into the old center for some grub and an ale. This was my first stop, and had a Ploughman's lunch here. A Bank's pub, my first pint was very refreshing - it was great to be back among decent cask ales again. A nice pub with a nice atmosphere.
No.3 - The Quarry
The Quarry is a large park runs along the edge of the River Severn (which semi-circumvents the old town center of Shrewsbury). It was such a perfect day that I almost could have sacked out on the lawn and taken a snooze..... but with much to see, I pressed on. Seems to also be popular with small groups of "off-licence" loitering teens.
No.4 - The Boathouse Inn on the River Severn
Just across the river from The Quarry, there is a small foot bridge that crosses directly over to this pub and Inn.
The big draw here was being able to sit outside on a gloriously warm afternoon and watch the crew teams row up and down the river. I had heard about this pub from some London friends, and managed to visit it at least once every day that I was up there.
One afternoon I was hanging out here and taking in the Scotland/Brazil World Cup game. Scotland lost as you might recall. Anyway, after getting pegged as a "Seppy" by one of the geezers next to me, we struck up a converstation. I must say, he exhibited a gregariousness uncommon to most Brits. Later on, either he took pity on me in my solo state, or wanted a drinking buddy (probably a bit of both) and offered to chauffer me on a Grand Tour of his favorite watering holes in Shrewsbury - The Post Office, the Nag's Head, The Bull Inn, The Three Fishes..... my recollection of the list grew dim as the evening wore on. He, being the consumate Limey, was great at "taking the piss" out of me, and I gave as good as I got - all in great fun. I believe we closed The Post Office down and stayed on well past 12:30 p.m. before the amicable staff tossed us out on our duffs. I don't think I'd forget him. A very cool person.
No.5 - "The Lineup" - Inside The Boathouse
There were 2 bars that served 3 different snug rooms. Again, the tap lineup here was exceptional, and featured most of the big cask ales from the Midlands (Marston's, Ruddles, and the usual suspects et al). Highly recommended pub, rain or shine.
No.6 - Butcher Row, Shrewsbury
Many of the streets in the center of Old Shrewsbury were named after trade names of the proprieters who frequented them long ago. Hence, Butcher Row, Fish Street, Milk St., etc...........
No.8 - Butcher Row
Butcher Row looking the other direction toward Pride Hill and the commercial center. The Bull Inn, another of my Shrewsbury haunts for this excursion, is on the right.
The pub itself is fine enough with well-conditioned ales and a nice bar staff. The landlord however is a Class-A prick. The pay phone in the bar was out of order, and I noticed one of his cronies using the house phone to make a local call. When I asked if I could also make a local call (to my hotel a few blocks away), this pinchy-faced git wanted me to use the pay phone down the street and whined, "That call costs me 40p!!" ("Wahhh!") I responded (nastily) by telling him "for all the pints I've bought for myself and a few other people this afternoon, you could at least spot me the use of your f@#$ing phone!" After that little downer , myself and a few other guys I was drinking with, ducked through the alley to The Hole in the Wall to catch the rest of the game. What a wimpy, cheap-screw piss ant, and for that, I say, "thumbs down to that dork's establishment." There are plenty of other, much better pubs in the area.
No.9 - Shrewsbury Castle
Originally a Norman fortress, the main part of the castle was built by Edward I in the 14th century, and further bolstered during the English Civil War for it's strategic location on the Welsh borderlands. (More info....)
No.10 - Castle Foregate and High Street, Shrewsbury
The main street leading from the train station to the commercial center. It's feel and architecture is spoiled somewhat by a shopping Mall (named after hometown hero Charles Darwin).
No.11 - Fish Street
This was in the heart of old Shrewsbury and was rather eerie to walk home through at night.... not because you'd worry about crime or being robbed or anything. It was just so quiet and the old buildings seemed to lean in on you, like you were being watched.......... er, well maybe it was the beer and the wee hours. ("I do believe in spooks, I do I do I do.....")
The Three Fishes pub is barely visible in the distance to the right. The only non-smoking pub I've ever been to in the UK, extremely well-kept ales, and a very nice (and knowledgeable) publican behind the bar.
No.12 - Inside The Three Fishes
Shrewsbury's.... well, one of England's... only non-smoking pub. That was the first thing that struck me when I walked in - that you could see clearly to the back of the pub. It was about 5:00 in the afternoon on a Wednesday when I dropped in and there wasn't a soul inside. (This would not be the case after 8 or 9:00.) As I ate my chicken and peas with chips, the only sound I could hear (and I mean the only sound) was the clock ticking on the wall..... for a solid 45 minutes. Probably the most poignant moment of solitude I had on this little side trip.
Another Shrewsbury and Shropshire site with photos.
No.1 - The Square, Shrewsbury
No.2 - Old Plough, on The Square
No.3 - The Quarry
