Charleston

By Murray Judge 1997

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Summary

Great rockclimbing exists at Charleston seacliffs on the West Coast between Greymouth and Westport. The cliffs are up to 40m high and consist of gneiss, a metamorphised granite. The quality is generally good. A great variety of climbing is found: delicate face climbs, crack climbs, chimneys, corners and overhangs. The holds are usually large and the harder climbs are steep. Friction is excellent. Most are easy to middle grade, with only few hard routes. Many fantastic lines await ascents. Climbs are walk on and walk off.

The Coast has a name for rain, but often it is enjoying a glorious fine spell when it's raining in Canterbury. Climbing is very pleasant throughout the year.

How to get there

Charleston seacliffs are on State Highway 6, 29 km south of Westport. A lovely scenic drive from Christchurch along a winding coast road.

Access

At the Charleston Motor Camp special rates apply for climbers. A motel is available, but the pub was burnt down recently. For groups, the Charleston Lodge is available. Book by writing to Buller High School, Westport. Camping is possible on the domain at Constant Bay (toilets and creek water), but is not encouraged by D.O.C. The nearest shops are at Westport.

History

Early use was made of the cliffs by Buller High School under the watchful eye of Paul Caffyn. Since then, more than 170 routes have been led. Key figures in its development include Paul Wopereis, Ronan Grew, and Rick Harding. Visitors such as Louise Shepherd and Dave Fearnley have added some hard lines. Charleston used to be a goldrush boomtown. In 1868 several thousand diggers were in residence, serviced by 60 hotels. It's a little quieter now.

Climbing Notes

Generally the rock is sound and often perfect, but care needs to be taken with the occasionally loose blocks and flakes, particularly on first ascents. Bring a good rack with CDs, hexes, wedges, and so on. Information published here is the work of Rick Harding and is based on earlier work by Paul Wopereis. The area hasn't been visited by Canterbury Rock's Central Committee on Worthiness, Clarity and Grading, so there may be some inconsistencies with the material elsewhere in the guidebook. Climb it as you see it. We apologise to any first ascentionists not credited. There is a strong local convention of on-sight leading of new routes ("these cliffs suit the adventurous, and not so much the tricksters"). So let's try for that ideal, and report first ascent methods precisely. Some new routes will need bolts though, and these should be placed in the best positions from a top rope. Bolts, hangers and inserts must be of stainless steel only, because of the high corrosion rate.

A climbers' book is kept in the motor camp and visitors are urged to record their comments, new routes, etc. Your local contact is Richard Harding of Millerton, Westport. Phone (03) 7828240.

Routes are described from north to south (left to right). Access is walk-on, with a wave-cut platform at the base of the cliffs. Be wary of waves breaking over the platform, and keep clear of surge holes. Cover up against sandflies.

To Get To The Areas

The popular southern areas, from Usher's Rock to Boulder Bay, are approached from the Constant Bay carpark by walking south on a well-formed track for ten minutes.

The northern rocks may be approached from the cemetery via a rough track which leads to Cod Rocks and The Platform. Another track branching left off this after 200m leads to the popular Bolt City Boulders, and by scrambling south along the coast, The Prow and Goat Cove.

To find Tunnel Cove and Robertson's Cove, from the north of Joyce's Bay scramble around the rocks and find a fisherman's track leading to Point Robertson. Branching off this track up a gulley to the right is a rough track leading to Tunnel Cove (and also Goat Cove). From there you can scramble south to reach Robertson's Cove.

Northern cliffs

Cod Rocks

In the gully leading down to the sea, on the north wall are three 5 metre cracks.

Easy day for a lady 16 Rick Harding

Liverpool Kiss 15 Rick Harding

first crack to the right

Tiger 18 Rick Harding

Thin crack to off-width

The Platform

*** Get Your Fun Card Punched 20 15m Dan Mannix '88

a superb climb up the arete, continue up steep jugs just left of the arete

Creatures of the Deep 22 Scott Camps and Pete Griffin '96

The flake in the gully R of GYFCP.

Dancing in the Dark 10

Left end of the south wall of the cave, damp.

Grease 15

Right end of the south wall of the cave.

Armless fun 15

Cracks and overhang up r side of the nose left of Pinch of Salt.

Pinch of Salt 13

Easy crack 1 m left of Crank with a Yank.

Crank with a Yank 17

On the R of the sea facing wall by the round orange blob, going straight up.

* Armed forces 22 Dan Mannix '88

The overhanging wall facing south, start at the round orange blob on the left, move up and right then straight up to the crack (crux). Move right to a rest then back left to the crack and up.

Boys in Blue 22 Scott Camps and Pete Griffin '96

The Crack R of AF, using a high nut placed with a stick.

All Hands on Deck 16 Rick Harding '88

The corner through the overhang.

Heave Ho 17 Paul Woperis (solo) '87

Right tending crack R of AHOD, difficult to place pro.

Jump for Joy 15 Rick Harding '88

R trending crack R of HH.

Windward Way 15 10m Paul Woperis (solo) '87

sloping face to the flax, L end of the wall.

Babes in Arms 17 Rick Harding '88

Overhanging crack on the boulder L of Goat Cave.

Partners in Climb 10

Crack and corner exit to cove on R side of the cave.

Bolt City Boulders

I'm not the Messiah 20 Ronan Grew

Pre-slung Territory 14 Dave MacLeod '88

Chimney R of INTM.

Protection by Halves 17 Andrew Taylor '87

Thin Slab and Groove.

* Walking on Glass 18 Ronan Grew

Smooth slab.

1940 15 Andrew Taylor (solo)

Arete opposite TYO.

The Young Ones 14 Ronan Grew (solo)

Layback crack.

Working Class Man 17 Ronan Grew '87

Delicate corner.

All Fingers and Thumbs 21 Rick Harding '87

Fine fingery climbing using pro in CK.

Crawling Kingsnake 19 Dennis Kelly

Crack line.

Goat Cove

The First Step 13 Rick Harding '87

The corner just R of the L arete of the Orange Wall.

* Better Late than Never 18 Rick Harding '87

Face route 5 m to R of TFS, perfect rock and pro.

Roc's Egg 16 Rick Harding '87

Thin Crack, face and crack.

* Dolphin Dreams 16 Paul Woperis '87

Prominent line near the R end of the Orange Wall. From L end of the cave climb the crack and go L to belay below the overhangs.

* Jump 17 Rick Harding '92

Climb the wall to the twin grooves above, with another short wall to the belay of DD.

No Fool Like an Old Fool 19 Rick Harding '87

The steep crack and L wall of the Boulder above with good jams and jugs.

Safe Crack 14 Rick Harding, Nigel Williams '87

Prominent gully crack.

Crack a Jack 14 Rick Harding '87

Crack R of SC.

Buried at Sea 13 Rick Harding (solo) '87

Roaring Forties 13 Rick Harding, S Stewart

Goat Gully East Wall

Father and Son

Rick Harding '94

On the centre of the steep buttress at the downhill end of the gully.

The writing's on the Wall 16 Rick Harding '93

Just R of the descent crack, up the wall to a big ledge and R from the R hand end.

I Hate Black Lingerie 17 6m Bruce White '93

R of descent crack, up 4 m to a ledge, move L and finish up R hand corner.

Tunnel Cove

Flight to Australia

Rick Harding '87

Porpoise with a Purpose 14 Sean McGrath '87

First groove on the north Wall.

Groper 15 Paul Woperis '87

Chimney groove.

Possums Progress 17 Nigel Williams (solo) '87

Small face in corner of cove.

Not the Full Quid 15 Rick Harding '94

R side of the south wall, climb chimney and arete, left and up handcrack to the overhang.

Robertson's Cove

Keyboard

Paul Woperis (solo) '87

A face route on good jugs halfway between Tunnel and Robertson's Cove, exit on steep flax.

** The Sun also Rises 19 Rick Harding '87

Banana shaped wall gully and crack.

The Flying Rat 15 Rick Harding '87

takes TSAR gully to the overhang, traverse R 4m up a crack, R and up to the top.

Glider 15 Rick Harding '87

Wet chimney on R of cove then cracks on L wall.

10 m From the point just R of the diagonal descent from the Robertson's cove climbs is a 6m wall

Rest Homes 16

L side of the face, walk down and L 3m to the top of the V and climb up and L for the second pitch.

Too Easy 10

Crack to the R.

RNR 14

Wall on R

Jack the Gripper 15 Bruce White '92

Last groove before the white wall.

Third Time Lucky 17

Steep grooves at the far R of the white wall.

Southern Cliffs

Usher's Rock - Sun Slabs

Dolphin Spotting

Jenny Brown '88

Farthermost L arete.

Dunked again 14 Rick Harding '88

Sun Slab 12 Jenny Brown '88

Corner route 5m left of SoS.

Sink or Swim 14 Jenny Brown, Rick Harding

Crack up arete on L end of slab.

Sun Slicker Jenny Brown '88

Up centre of slab, starting slightly R of centre.

Rock of Ages 11

Chimney on R side of cove.

Usher's Rock - Here Comes The Sun Face

North facing 12 m face.

Splash 13 Ronan Grew

Seaward face of the pinnacle opposite cruisin'.

Cruisin' 8 Paul Woperis (solo)

Face near L edge of Usher's N face.

Blame it on the Weather 16 Ronan Grew

Groove with small roof.

Temper 16 Dennis Kelly

Crack and groove.

The old Man and the Sea 16 Rick Harding '86

Face, crack and corner R of Temper.

Heatwave L 14 Ronan Grew

L crack of the chimney.

Heatwave R 13 Ronan Grew

R crack of the chimney.

Coal Dust 15 Dennis Kelly

Face just R of chimney.

Usher's Rock - Sea-breeze Face

The west face, 12 m.

Badjelly 14 Paul Woperis (solo)

crack and arete.

Flight of Stairs 10 Ronan Grew

Crack and corner.

Don's Delight 16 Donald Walker

The edge of the face.

Calypso 16 Andrew Taylor

Face climb to the flake and directly up.

Shades in Hades 18 Ronan Grew

1m to the R of C, trending L.

* Nashira 16 Paul Woperis

Up the face and very fine crack.

* Adam's Apple 13 Dave Adam

L slanting crack and up (15) or along the ledge.

Let Me Think 18 Andrew Taylor '87

The face just left of the Y crack.

Making Plans for Dave 15 Dave Adam

The Y crack, finish L or R.

Meditations in Green 17 Dennis Kelly

Face to R of Y crack.

Call it What you Like 15 John Skilton

R slanting crack out to the R edge of the Sea-breeze Face.

Usher's Rock - Wet Wall

The south face, 16 to 18m

White Punks on Chalk 20 Ronan Grew

L crack.

33 Brutes 24 Dave Fearnley

The wet and slimy crack.

* Reach for the Sky 16

Prominent cracks with overhang at top.

Soft Option 15 Dave Chowdry '87

Face climb beginning straight over the flake onto the wall, trend R to finish.

Far Out and Solid 12 Dennis Kelly

R trending crack.

Blah Blah Blah 14 Ronan Grew

A thin Crack then a face.

Twilight 15 Nigel Williams '87

Small face and overhang.

A Day in the Life of a 20c Piece 12 Rick Harding (solo) '78

R crack in Gully.

The Bat 15 Anton Woperis

Overhang and crack to the R.

Veg Gully 15

Lean To 21 Phil de Joux (solo) '86

A roof like overhang.

Unbalanced Mind 21 Phil de Joux (solo) '86

R of LT.

Rip It Up 15 D MacLeod '86

Deep chimney.

The Gauntlet 17 D MacLeod '86

Groove overhang and slab.

The Battler 14 Rick Harding '87

Overhang, crack and slab 1m R of TG.

Smack Jack 11 Ronan Grew

Black gully opposite large block.

Jugs Rick Harding (solo) '86

R wall of SJ

Sunset Rib - Black slab

The inner N facing 15m wall has some easy routes

Chock-a-Block 14 Rick Harding '87

From the cave climb past a chockstone and up the L wall.

Heart Beat 16 Nigel Williams '87

Face to the flake and up, R of cave.

Top Roper's Delight 15 Rick Harding '87

Face 2m R of HB and L of the arete.

Stop Procrastinating 17 Dave MacLeod

The thin crack and overhang 1m R of the arete.

Street Hassle 14

Small overhang 2m R of the black Chimney.

Black Chimney

1m to R

Orange Country 8

Wide easy slab.

Forth form Alley 9

Easy Groove onto rib.

Sunset Rib - Sea Dreamer Wall

The outer N facing wall

Nelson Flying Club 15 Rick Harding '88

Groove and wall.

Trim, taut and Terrific 17 Rick Harding, Sunny Stewart '88

Crack and wall just L of SSS.

*** Short Sharp and Shithot 19 Ronan Grew

Steep cracks up the buttress.

Frog's Lilypad 16 Andrew Taylor '87

Small face, L variation of Hoop's Mistake.

* Hoop's Mistake 15

The first corner moving L.

Sparrow Fart 16 Dennis Kelly

Second corner trending L.

Eliminator 17 Dennis Kelly

Keyhole and upper overhang and crack.

Thinking 17 John Skilton

1m R of E face , overhang and crack.

* A Farewell to Arms 19 Rick Harding '87

1.5m R of E face, up flake and overhang.

Sweating Up 15 Richard Pearson

The face and upper overhang, trending R. (Var. finish to L 17, Rick Harding.)

* All Stars 15 Andrew Taylor

Face and Crack.

Mike's Climb 17 Mike Dunn

The steep N arete at the end of Sunset Rib, Run Out.

Sunset Rib - Sunset Arete

Long John Silver

Rick Harding '87

The southern arete of Sunset Arete, R side.

Cream Puff 18 Mike Dunn '86

Face climb 2m R of LJS using the fine crack.

Sunset Rib - Sunset Wall

Combination

Face route 4m L of keyhole (variations take R and L cracks).

Still Steaming 17 Mike Dunn '86

Climb face 1m L of keyhole up a groove.

Keyhole 16

Crack with hole in the wall and overhang.

Aid in Line 9

Rightward trending corner groove.

Red Shark 17

L crack on small overhanging buttress.

Atomic Chevrolet 17

Middle crack on overhanging buttress.

Black Cadillac 16

R crack on overhanging buttress.

Gully Gully Gully 8

Prominent groove.

Summer Holiday 13

Short arete route

Out of your mind 17

Overhanging crack to upper slab.

Scramble country 11

Variations.

Masterfeet

Face route for beginners.

Cornology 8

Corner route for beginners.

Cathedral Rock

Cathedral Rock - Slammer Wall

Sweat and Sin 16 Dave MacLeod

Short face to a chimney.

* Grunt Grip and Grasp 16 Dave MacLeod

Chimney.

** Lonely on the Lead 17 Paul Woperis '86

A sustained R leaning crack.

Bite the Rat 18 Mark Jones '91

Start on LOTL, follow a low traverse and up L of the arete.

Louise's Climb 24 Louise Shepherd '86

Climb up on good holds to a thin crack, continue slightly R to the upper crack (crux) finishing on the R arete.

** Up the Shrunds 20 Dave Fearnley '86

Wide cracks just L of the arete.

Cathedral Rock - Wonder Wall

** Rolling Dice 16 Paul Woperis

Climb the crack up to the sloping ledge, from the top of the ledge traverse L to the arete.

** Humpty Dumpty 18 Rick Harding '87

From the ledge climb the overhang at the L end then R to a scoop and R again and up.

Rattle your Dags 18

Start in the L corner up to the shelf, move across R and up line of flakes, move a little L on flakes to pockets 3m L of the bolts. Climb up to birds nests and R to top.

** Dead Trousers 19 Richard Thomson '86

Climb to the shelf and move R , up past the bolts.

Think about It 18 Andrew Taylor

A corner start to the ledge with a hard move.

** Wild Horses in the Sun 17 Rick Harding '87

Climb the lower slab to a large block then a hand crack to the ledge. Follow finger cracks to Stinger Ledge, step well L and up yellow rock to a corner, up and L to another corner and a crack.

** Stinger 17 Paul Woperis

Climb the slab to a ledge and the large corner above, just below the overhang step L to Stinger Ledge and follow the L slanting crack.

Over The Top 18

Start up Stinger and climb through the overhang and up the face.

T.K.O. 17

Thin crack 4m L of the corner, up the slab.

** Hanging Around 18 Rick Harding '87

To the top of the slab, then through the bulges L of RUA.

** Racing in the Streets 16 Dennis Kelly and Ronan Grew

The corner between Wonder Wall and Cathedral Wall, belay bolts at halfway.

* Robbery under Arms 17 Rick Harding '87

Climb to the belay of RITS, and take the crack and groove above.

** Crack of Delights 17 Rick Harding '87

The thin crack on the upper wall R of RUA.

Cathedral Rock - Cathedral Wall

The N facing wall, has poor pro in the brittle dark rock higher up.

* Rocks in the Head 18 Rick Harding '87

The groove, overhang and wall 1m r of the corner.

* Where's my Kitchen? 19 Louise Shepherd '86

The crack 4m r of the corner, belay at a flaky pillar then L and up, loose and runout at top.

Flying Scorpion 22 Dave Fearnley '91

Climb the wide crack to the traverse line, move L then up the wall (run out) finishing through the bulge on its L.

Swallow My Love 19 Dave Fearnley '86

Move R to the flake below the traverse and up the wall, quite run out.

* Sharks Breakfast 17 Paul Woperis

The prominent traverse line.

Salt with Everything 15 John Dainty '87

A low traverse to the chimney of SB.

Pulpit 17 Paul Woperis

The chimney at the end of SB traverse and the upper seaward wall.

The Block

Blockhead

Overhanging crack corner on NE side of the block.

Cathedral Rock - Sea Face

Trepidation 16

Left side of seaward wall to Pulpit Ledge.

Carwash 17 Murray Judge '97

Abseil in from the belay bolts on Pulpit, to the ledge at the top of the pulpit chimney and down to a ledge above the breakers, L slanting jam crack to the Pulpit ledge and a short wall to the top.

Andy's Arete 20 Andrew McFarlane '97

Abseil from the Pulpit bolts down to the sea-level platform (check if the waves are breaking over it first). Climb the L arete of the cave.

Rising Damp 20 Murray Judge '97

The jamcrack on the R wall and up past the chockstones

Deep Sea Diver 15 Wayo Carson '97

From the Pulpit bolts traverse the flax across and down to a large ledge, abseil the slab towards the Block and belay above the overhang, climb back up.

Flying Fish 15 Wayo Carson '97

as above but take the outer edge of the slab.

European Cove

Mojo Risin' 20 Dennis Kelly

The crack on the S wall of the entry gully

Patagonia

Crack in the western corner of the EC entrance chamber

Bottle Brush 10

Entrance to EC, 1 side of chockstone.

European Cove - North Wall

Disappointment 15 Andrew Taylor '86

Corner and crack.

Go 15 Ronan Grew '85

a deep crack.

Greased Lightning 17 Andew Taylor '86

Thin cracks.

** Great White Shark Hunt 18 Ronan Grew

Main corner up to the flax ledge.

*** The Way of the Lion 18 Rick Harding '88

Up the R side of the narrow sea-facing wall, move L and up to the overhang, traversing out R above to the arete and follow the groove on the slab to the belay bolts.

** Flowers on Your Grave 18 Rick Harding '90

Start up WOTL and follow the R leaning groove beside the arete. Step through the overhang, up and L to the groove in the slab.

** Warrior 17 Rick Harding '89

The central crack up to the overhang, move R to a bolt, climb the groove to the block, bolt belay

Unknown Route

the R crack with one bolt at the overlap.

Crack of Decay 16 Rick Harding '88

Corner up to the 3m roof below the chockstone.

European Cove - East Wall

Fool's Gold

Dave MacLeod '86

The centre of the face.

Mania for Anne 14 Dave MacLeod

The corner chimney.

European Cove - South Wall

Get Stuck In 17 Rick Harding '88

Up the corner to the ledge, climb the second crack and chimney on R.

Do or Die 17 Rick Harding '88

The wall and central crack.

Squeeze Chimney

un-climbed?

European Cove - Tintin Boulder

Rastapopulus 20 Wayo Carson '97

a line of flakes with a steep start.

Marlinspike 18 Andrew Mcfarlane '97

Snowy 19 Murray Judge '97

Red Rackham's Treasure 19 Andrew Mcfarlane '97

Thompson and Thompson Wayo Carson '97

Boulder Bay

Bad Language 16 Paul Woperis '86

Seaward face of cove's N arete.

Go 3 15 Ronan Grew

Parallel crack on seaward face of N arete.

Old Dog 15 Rick Harding '88

Overhanging corner above Anne's delight.

Anne's Delight 13 Dave MacLeod '86

At the descent corner, climb the corner, traverse R and up a short corner and up the slab.

* Fear of Flying 18 Rick Harding '88

The corner above the pillar in the cave, climb the overhanging crack to the slab.

* Mana Rick Harding '90

The featured R wall of the cave, finishing between the boulders or traverse below the L one

Young Men's Fancy 15 Nigel Williams '87

Traverse R on the S wall and up the seaward face.

Southern Cliffs

Succeed or Seaweed 12

Abseil down to ledge, diagonal handcrack.

Orongorongo Orangutang 17

From Boulder climb the overhanging finger crack.