Crag W

map of the mount pleasant area

This is the large orange lichen-covered cliff above the path 50m west of Crag X.

A couple of bands of poor rock low down corrupt the otherwise good solid rock with adventurous climbing and at over twenty metres, the routes are of reasonable length. There are rumoured to be some top belay bolts, but a long sling for bollards is likely to be handy anyway. Descent is via a bit of a grovel in prickly scrub through to the Crater Rim track and down the zig zag, or over to the grassy gully west of Crag V. Alternatively rap off.

The short steep wall left of Gorgeous Groove will produce a couple of problems which will be low on pro.

Routes are named from left to right.

Gorgeous Groove 6 15m Phil Stuart-Jones '95 beta

The obvious cavers mecca. Entertaining 3 dimensional grovel up the hole with a choice of exits. Likely to be damp in places.

No Future 16 22m Phil Stuart-Jones '95 beta

Start on the short steep knobbly white wall about 5m R of GG then up into the R-facing corner with two bushes and up onto the ledge. Move R up the wall and crack and exit on the arete. Good pro where it's needed.

un-named ?? 24m Joe Arts beta

Somewhere in the muddle of the jumbled wall is a potential line. Cleaned but not finished. Likely to be tricky and fairly strenuous.

Scorpion 18 25m Phil Stuart-Jones '95 beta

Go to the grassy ledge above where the track goes downhill. Start on the huge chickenhead low in the wall and squirm up onto the slab. Move R into the cleft then straight up. Mantle up through the ledge/wall system at the top. Spaced pro.

Crag V

This is the steep, ugly, loose-looking lump of lichen-covered choss with the big cracked red roof, 20m west from Crag W along the path and just to teh right of the grassy ascent/descent gully. A couple of wide bands of poor rock overwhelm the small amount of good solid rock high up. Pity. At nearly thirty metres, the route's almost worth doing. Double roping may help. Descent is via the grassy gully west of the crag.

Routes are named from left to right.

Routebags and Boot Rags ? Phil Stuart-Jones beta

The opening gambit on a new crag and probably the only route! Start in the middle. Boulder up the loose blocks in the matrix until the first narrow good band is reached. Fiddle with pro. Sneak up through the second band of crud to the good rock. Do battle with the cracked overhang.