Holmes Crag

The crag is on the 'Balcarres' property, owned by Mr I.D. Richardson, who is quite happy for rock climbers to climb there. He would appreciate being contacted if large groups are going to use the crag. His phone number is Pigeon Bay (03) 514 8804.

The crag is located at map reference 996275, on NZMS sheet N36 of the NZMS 260 series, at 460 metres above sea level. Access to the crag is best from Pigeon Bay, via the Hilltop. Take the Old Pigeon Bay road until the second gate is reached just after some Macrocarpa trees, with an old house and some sheep yards either side of the road. Park off the road before this gate. Walk up the hill to the obvious rocks on the south side of the road.

The crag is approximately 60m long by 10 to 15m high. It consists of columnar trachy basalt. It faces almost due south and is excellently protected from the North-West and North-East. The crag dries quickly after rain, particularly where it has been cleaned. However, as it receives almost no sun, it is slow to dry in winter and can be very cold.

Descents are available at both ends, the easiest being at the left end. Protection is available with a set of camming devices and a set of wires. Most of the loose rock has been cleaned from the listed climbs, but there is still more to be found, particularly around the summit blocks. Please be careful if you are heaving rocks down into the scrub below, the goats give the natives a hard enough time without us adding to the damage.

Grades on some routes have been updated from Murray's original guide based on Phil Stuart-Jones and Joe Arts comments. In every case the grades have gone up - typically by one or two grades. As with any new crag grades should be taken with a grain of salt - if you repeat any of these feel free to let me know if the grade feels 'right' - JD 10/97

Routes are described starting from the left end.

Because It's There 6 5m Murray Cullen '90 beta

Just to the right of the descent route. Up easy blocks, avoiding the vegetation. This climb could well be only grade 1, it depends where you put your hands and feet! In the style of the first ascent you must complete this climb in Alpine double boots, carrying a 20Kg pack.

5 metres to the right
Guilty Conscience 13 5m Murray Cullen '90 beta

The 'V' groove immediately above the large bush, with a tussock ledge on the left at half height. May be more like 15+. Dirty and green.

Blockhead 12 5m Murray Cullen '90 beta

The crack 1 metre right of G.C. with a stack of blocks, some of which rattle a bit!

2 metres to the right
* Magpie 15 10m Murray Cullen '90 beta

The 4 sided corner with a capping stone and a curved hand jam crack in the RHS, above a pedestal. Mantle onto the pedestal. Hand jam the crack. Exit right from the top of the crack and continue straight up to a belay. Excellent protection.

Delusions 20 10m Joe Arts '91 beta

Just around the corner, a thin, steep finger crack for 6m before it eases back to easy ground.

2 metres to the right
Yellow Matter Custard 18 12m Murray Cullen '90 beta

Climb delicately on small holds to reach lay away holds in a left facing curved crack. Continue up the obvious line to the top.

4 metres to the right
*** Cracker Jack Mac 20 15m Murray Cullen '90 beta

Miss this one and you qualify for instant retirement, complete with euthanasia pill. The obvious finger to hand jam crack. Finish through the blocks right (best) or left. Sustained and strenuous. Excellent protection - if you can hang around long enough to put it in!

4 metres to the right
Fallen Idol 14 15m Peter Cleary '90 beta

The obvious crack on the right of the 'Fallen Idol'. An alternative start exists on the left side ((12), Peter Cleary, 24 Feb 1990), with another start up the prow of the 'Idol' ((15) - only if you stay right on the prow, a bit artificial. Murray Cullen, Mar '90). Continue up the wide crack and ledges to the top.

** Bridg-itte 18 15m Murray Cullen '90 beta

The thin crack to the right of the 'Fallen Idol'. Wide bridging takes you up to a ledge, with an interesting finish at the top. The crux is getting over the step slab at half height.

Easy Day for an Aging Alpine Faggot 10 15m Murray Cullen '90 beta

Climb the blocks behind the rotting tree stump and continue up the obvious easy line. A bit vegetated in the middle. Using the tree stump is a no no!

Reptilian Mantle 18 15m Murray Cullen '90 beta

Climb the block, direct, to the left of the large Broadleaf and join Easy Day... A one move wonder. Either you can do it or you can't!

Pethidine Peace 12 15m Murray Cullen '90 beta

Climb up the 'V' groove to the right of the large Broadleaf tree and to the left of Escalade du Jour. Traverse right onto a small ledge before you get tangled in the vegetation and continue up the top half of Escalade du Jour. Have a nice trip!

Escalade du Jour 22 15m Murray Cullen '90 beta

Start at the steep crack with an open flared chimney (crux). This is both steeper and more strenuous than you expect. The crack continues up an open corner to a small bush below a sloping ledge. Easy finish to the top.

Crack of Delight 19 15m Joe Arts '91 beta

Jam your way up the left hand thin crack on a steep wall, with a Coprosma bush at the top.

6 metres to the right
Broadleaf Lane 15 13m Peter Cleary '90 beta

Climb the crack (which used to have a small broadleaf tree part way up - until it was removed by the arch-environmentalist!) to a ledge. Exit left (easy) or through the obvious bulging crack on the right (much more satisfactory).

3 metres to the right
The Spies Are Out 21 14m Joe Arts '91 beta

The finger crack which widens to more than fist width at the top, with an interesting exit to finish (go right). Don't use the wrong size cam - this has proved nearly fatal!

** Hump the Lump 15 8m Peter Cleary '90 beta

Mantle onto the ledge and jam the crack above. Excellent protection.

6 metres to the right
Abandon All Preconceptions 24 12m Joe Arts '94 beta

Place your first protection by reaching into the groove from up on the left. Descend and bridge the awkward 'V' groove from the ground, up awkwardly to the thin finger crack.

5 metres to the right
*** Death by Blocklets 22 15m Joe Arts '91 beta

Climb onto the pedestal in the four sided corner. From here climb on the right rib (crux) to gain the jugs under the small roof. Head for the obvious exit. A really nice fingery crux.

2 metres to the right
The Pigeons have Flown 24 15m Joe Arts '91 beta

Bridge the groove while jamming the thin crack. There is one crucial pocket for the feet on the right wall. The bulge at the top is very interesting.

2 metres to the right
Supraspinatus 22 15m Joe Arts '94 beta

Left side of the lower overhanging block. Climb into the slaby alcove, aiming for the top edge of the block to pull over into QG. A manky fixed peg is used for protection.

How Queen Quenever Made Him a Nun 16 15m Murray Cullen '90 beta

Start on the short wall to a pedestal, on the right side of the lower overhanging block, finishing up the right facing corner. Utterly disgusting as the name suggests. A very suggestive position is adopted to gain the sloping ledge above the overhang. The upper corner makes for an enjoyable finish.

3 metres to the right
Space Age Medasin 17 15m Murray Cullen '90 beta

Climb the V groove to a block. From the ledge on the right side climb the gently overhanging wall above, moving left into the obvious crack to gain a ledge with a choice of exits to the top.

2 metres to the right
Les Liaisons Dangereuses 12 15m Murray Cullen '90 beta

Straight into the deceptively steep corner and keep on truckin'. The holds just keep on coming. The 'dump truck' removed most of the loose rubbish aeons ago!

Bodylength 12 8m Peter Cleary '90 beta

The obvious, short, right leaning off-width leading into some loose rock (on top of the off-width) and an easy exit. ??

Holmes Alone 18 Hamish Reid '97 beta