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Summary
This is a great place when your skills get you up to grade 21. Its climbs are
steep, strenuous and sustained, needing experience with pro and stamina to
complete them safely. Being perched on a steep hillside above Lyttelton Harbour adds
to its no-nonsense atmosphere. Watch out for Freudian slips. The crag gets little
sun and is best after dry weather. The winter rains continually seep down
the crag giving rise to the distinctive scungy stripes. Sheltered from N.W. winds,
it's a good choice on a hot, windy northerly day.
How to get there
This crag is on the Lyttelton Harbour side of the hills, above Livingstone Bay
(Map Ref: N36 910347). Drive to Evans Pass on the Summit Road, and drive 3km towards
Godley Head. Park in a layby directly above Taylor's Mistake, carefully negotiate
the fence, then follow a sheep track horizontally westward towards Lyttelton above
a couple of rocky spurs until you glimpse the profile of the Wall - an awesome
sight! Continue on the track around the top of a broad gully, then either drop
down and traverse across under the wall, or (easier) stay high and drop down on
the far side of the cliff.
History
The cliff was first climbed on in 1977 by Lindsay Main and Henry Mares, Henry's
Debauchery 17 probably being the pick of the crop. 1986 saw the rediscovery of
this gem and a wave of development. Two of Canterbury's best climbs, James Moar's
*** Armitage Shanks (23) and Roger Parkyn's *** Video Nasty (22), were done in this
wave. Richard Thomson contributed * Activated Sludge (22) and ** Purity of Essence (21).
From John McCallum came Meat Injection (22) and * Cleansing the Stone (22). Dave
Fearnley added * L'Actic Ingredient, with Paul Tattersall adding its hard Direct
Start (24). In 1988 little was added except for Dave Fearnley's ** Flock To The Rock (26) and
the Direct Finish (24) to L'Actic Ingredient. Early 1989 saw fresh blood on the rock.
Guy Cotter provided two libininous excursions, * Penetrator (21) and ** Spanking
Wendy (22). Bill Mcleod provided the formidable *** Melting Point (24), and Simon
Middlemass the sneaky and potentially classic ** The Artful Dodger (20).
Climbing Notes
Most of the harder routes are bolt-protected, usually without hangers, although
a small selection of CDs and wires will often be blessed. The best descent is
usually to scramble down either side of the crag. Or you can take the exciting
rappel from the bolt anchors at the top of Melting Point.
The Left Wall
| Hocus Pocus |
13 |
20m |
Lindsay Main '78 |
 |
Start on the L side of the wall on the arete (not the corner). Up and into the
L corner, then briefly into the R corner and back L.
| Magic Carpet |
15 |
20m |
Lindsay Main '78 |
|
Start on black rock and up to jugs (crux) then up slabs and grooves with little
pro.
| Supped Pig |
17 |
15m |
James Jenkins '80 |
|
On R side of wall, just L of vegetated crack. Up the red slab tending R (crux).
Follow crack L or finish up arete.
| Arête |
11 |
15m |
Lindsay Main '78 |
|
Start in either of the two cracks on the R side, then move out on to the arete.
The Main Wall
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| D | Debauchery |
| MI | Meat Injection |
| PTC | Polish the Cucumber |
| POE | Purity of Essence |
| CTS | Cleansing the Stone |
| VN | Video Nasty |
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| * The Penetrator |
21 |
15m |
Guy Cotter '89 |
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Past 2 chastity-bolts to establish yourself in the thin overhanging crack.
Finish R. Good pro.
| * Debauchery |
17 |
28m |
Henry Mares '77 |
|
Climbs the prominent crack high on the left of the main crag. Scramble
up the gully to belay, traverse out right across ledges to gain bottom
of crack. Climb the crack. Good protection. Best belay is a large
block well back.
| ** Meat Injection |
22 |
28m |
John McCallum '86 |
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Start under the arete, balance up the slab to clip the first bolt, then right towards PTC,
moving back left to the arete at the 2nd bolt. Continue up the arete past bolt #3,
to gain a good ledge. From there clip bolt #4, then up the irregular crack, moving back
to the arete at the 5th bolt to gain a large pock (crux). Then up easier
ground to the top. Single bolt anchor and chain.
Originally done with minimal pro (1st bolt on PTC, fixed peg, gear in crack), since
retrobolted by the first ascensionist - now very safe and pleasant.
| * Polish The Cucumber |
19 |
28m |
Roger Parkyn '86 |
|
Up the brown groove past three bolts and a small overlap to gain easier section, then the
thin crack (smallish wires) to harder exit (cams).The move to clip the first bolt is a little
scary, easier for giants (cowards can gain extra protection by
clipping the 1st bolt on Meat Injection). Good protection, sustained. Single belay bolt.
| ** Purity Of Essence |
21 |
30m |
Richard Thomson |
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Climbs easier rock on right of stain to a less steep section, follow
faint crack, place high runner then traverse right to finish up past
a small overhung feature. Natural protection. (ie Very limited )
| Half Fact, Half Friction |
21 |
29m |
Gavin Tweedie '92 |
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Stainless steel hangers point the way, watch out for Austrian ice axe belays.
| ** Spanking Wendy |
21 |
28m |
Guy Cotter '89 |
|
Gentle pats on the bottom lead to greater excitement. No prophylactics
available until you're already in the big scoop and halfway there - don't lose
control. Four bolts.
| * Cleansing The Stone |
22 |
28m |
John McCallum '86 |
|
Climb the left side of the black arête past bolt, veering right to
clip bolt #4 of V.N. Move back left past bolt (crux) to cave and loose
finish. Take R.Ps.
| *** Video Nasty |
22 |
28m |
Roger Parkyn '86 |
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Sustained wall-climbing up a slight right facing rib. Small
friends and wires on the way to first bolt. Move up past another three
bolts until climbing eases. From the 4th bolt step horizontally right across the slab
and continue up easy ground (cam or wires) to top. Single belay bolt (as per Lard of the Thighs)
or carry on over the top to the communal VN/CTS/SW to the left).
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| A | Armitage Shanks |
| FP | Feminine Positions |
| ASL | Activated Sludge |
| LI | L'Actic Ingredient |
|
| Lard of the Thighs |
25 |
|
Tony Burnell |
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Eliminate but technical climbing up the wall between "Video Nasty" and
"Armitage Shanks".
Start between the above routes leave the ground moving up and left
towards "VN" before moving back to the middle of the wall at the second
bolt, move up and right to pass the third bolt and onto good hand holds,
up past the fourth bolt then left again to rounded layaways then back
right and up on ever improving holds to join "AS" at the good ledge.
Move up and go onto the left rib past the sixth bolt and easy climbing
to finish. Single belay bolt shared with VN.
| *** Armitage Shanks |
23 |
28 |
James Moar '86 |
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Another great, sustained route. Up past 5 bolts, some find bolt #2 desperate
to clip.
| ** Flock To The Rock |
26 |
20m |
Dave Fearnley '88 |
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Climb up R of A.S. Place wires and traverse L above the small overlap. Clip
the bolt and continue upwards, moving off left at the second bolt. The second bolt
is desperate to clip, as are most of the moves.
| * Feminine Positions |
22 |
28m |
Ton Snelder '86 |
|
Sustained, balancy, obscure and a bit contrived ! Clip first bolt on
A.S. then move up and left. Crux at the top. However if climbed to the
right between 2nd and 3rd bolts it's slightly easier.
| * Activated Sludge |
23 |
22m |
Richard Thomson '86 |
|
Climb up past two bolts, place a good wire, then hard moves heading up and right to
belay station to the right. From ledge abseil off chains etc. Richard says
yet another wonderfull climb, there used to be a fixed copperhead but
James pulled it out on a ground fall! Sustained.
| L'Actic Ingredient |
22 |
22m |
Dave Fearnley '86 |
|
Trends up and right past three bolts, quite steep but holds are big.
Abseil from ledge (chain and eye-bolt). Direct start is 24 (Paul Tattersall 86),
direct finish is also 24 (Dave Fearnley 88). Suprisingly safe for a Dr Death route.
| Spiffhanger |
14 |
22m |
John McCallum & Chris Owens '95 |
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the corner right of l'actic ingredient.
| Snotgobbler's Revenge |
23 |
31m |
Steve Elder '90 |
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A long reach to pick the top nose. Start at the same place as The Artful Dodger.
Move L up to a large wire placement, then R onto block. Straight up past three
bolts, trying hard not to remove vital holds. Swing R at 3rd bolt and step onto
protuberance. Continue straight up past 4th bolt on smaller holds. Big fall
potential.
| Cinder Path |
24 |
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Tony Burnell '96 |
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Start as for the "Artful Dodger" to its third bolt then break out left
up the wall into a scoop below an overlap, over this and up the wall to
a vague left facing corner. Continue up using the Gargoyles to a lower
off just below the vegetated ledge, (at this point purists can move
right round the rib to finish up "AD" ).
| The Artful Dodger |
20 |
33m |
Simon Middlemass '89 |
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A varied and interesting climb. Follow the R-trending ramp above the overhangs.
Step around the corner and climb the obvious L-leaning ramp. Finish R of the
bolt through the scoop and mantle. Eight bolts with hangers. Two ropes are useful.
| Dodger Direct |
24/25 |
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Tony Burnell '98 |
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Follow the bolts to
the ledge of Melting Point. Then up this or the Artful Dodger.
| *** Melting Point |
26 |
35m |
Bill McLeod '89 |
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From icy-cool to jelly and eventual sublimation. Steady heat from bottom to top.
Climbs the concave wall to its highest point. Start 8m R of the corner-overhang.
Up to first bolt, trend L to block below overlaps, then straight up the wall
above. Ten bolts with hangers.
| Mr Cucumber Gets Deep-Throated |
27 |
35m |
Martyn Clarke '95 |
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the line right of meltin point, passing through overhangs
with lots of slopey holds.
The West Wall
| Rack & Ruin |
14 |
12m
| Lindsay Main '78 |
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Start by a bush and climb a step broken crack to the big ledge. Continue up
crack through bulge.
| H-bombs |
17 |
12m |
John Howard '78 |
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Up to the scoop on very steep rock. L to a crack and up.
R of the Main Wall, high up in the cirque above the access sheep track, you will
come across this route on the best chunk of rock...
| Sargeant Dan The Cremota Man |
20 |
9m |
Bryan Moore '88 |
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Overhangs and good climbing. 2 bolts.
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The Jane Fonda Workout Wall