Yoda
Here's an email I received from Gary awhile back:
I got it running today!
I had a few snags as I fired up my new motor for the first time. I had small
oil and water leaks, but they were minor. I kept the revs up for a while to
keep the new cam happy. I watched the temps and oil pressure close but it
never had a problem. It would not idle. One big problem with a map based ECU,
the new cam and ported head made it pull less vacum, so the ECU injected more
fuel, but it is actually flowing less air at low revs. I am still programming
it to get it straightened out. It will now idle at 1100 okay, but if I try to
lower it, it starts to hunt up and down about 200 revs. I had this trouble
before with the ISKY cam, and I know what I have to do, but it always takes
time. It is only pulling 15 inches of vacum at 1100 rpm, which is already
kinda low, but at 900 it is only 11 inches of vacum with a lot of reversion
pulsing in the intake, it even makes the PCV valve clatter. I thought I have
a valvetrain noise, but it was just the PCV valve.
I got it running good enought to take for a drive. It feels about how it did
from 1600 to 3500 or so, but from 4000 to 6000 (the highest I hava had it) it
pulls much harder even with only 11 psi of boost. I laid rubber for over 50
feet (the engine shop told me to smoke em) it sounded like a motorcycle. So
much for 22R's not being for performance. With the lighter rotating and
reciprocating parts, it revs freer and shakes alot less. I also weighed my
drive parts before installing them, the HKS flywheel is only 9 pounds and the
Broward pressure plate is nine pounds, the Centerforce one was 11. The
Broward metalic street disk and 1700 pound pressure plate work great, it was
a bit grabby at first (it took some getting used to) but now I can luanch it
with now chatter and it never slips.
My first trans re-build also works great. I can get it into second so fast
that the revs don't fall, and the boost is still there after the shift. When
I did the burnout it left 50 feet of black streaks, then 6 feet clear, then
another 10 feet of black after the shift, then I lifted as the street is a 25
mph zone. I had blue tire smoke all around the car.
Soon after though, I had steam all around the car. The rear freeze plug on
the passanger side blew out, dumping all of the coolant in a few seconds. I
noticed the steam and the temp gauge climbing, so I shut it down and it took
me a while to figure out what happened. I was a little luck as this plug is
is one of the two I could get to out of 5 in the motor, without having to
remove alot. I still had to take out the oil pressure sender and oil filter,
but it was still under the intake, over the starter, and infront of the
bellhousing. I finally got the new one in with an air chisel. I used a piece
of aluminum to take the chisel pounding and spread it out to the surface of
the plug. I tried all different ways to swing a hammer in there and gave up,
the chisel worked great.
By the seat of the pants dyno, I would bet it will do low 13 second 1/4 mile
times right now with just 11 psi of boost. The ultra fast shifts and the
tremendous top end power boost sure make the 14.0 run I did feel slow. Maybe
high 12's, but I don't want to speculate. I will probably get it on a dynojet
next week to dial it in the rest of the way. For now it is a bit rich and
idling too fast. I had to add over 20% more fual at 6000 rpm to keep up with
the greater air flow, at the same boost as before. The 40 pound fuel
injectors are definately the limit now. Even with the pressure kicked up to
52 psi they are topping out at 12 psi.
Gary Meissner
Boost Rules !!
Here's another update I received from Gary but unable (read: busy/lazy) to put up on the site until now:
The highly modified 22RE sports J&E forged pistons and Crower billet steel
rods. The valve train is activated by a Comp Cams 268S through Toyota
Aluminum rockers on LC Engineering heavy duty shafts, and the valves are
oversize Ferrea stainless steel parts.
The turbo system consists of a custom Turbonetics built TO4E/T-3 Hybrid
blowing through an intercooler consisting of two Renault Fuego cores, an HKS
blowoff valve, a Buick 2.3 inch throttle, and a hand made plenum that
shortened the stock intake runners to about 10 inches long.
Fuel Regulated to 52 psi by a modified Toyota regulator, is fed to this beast
by a Bosch GFP 286 fuel pump, and set of Bosch Porsche 944 Turbo injectors.
Controlled by an Electromotive TEC II running super blend software. The TEC
II also takes care of the spark with it's direct fire ignition system, which
uses a crank trigger, and eliminates the distributor.
Gary responded recently to a ToyModder who was seeking advice on using the turbo from an SVO Mustang on a 22RE:
Disclaimer: Neither Gary nor I claim responsibility for anything that could go wrong should you attempt to do this.
Q:
The problem I'm having is with the way the turbo assembly is made. I
am stuck putting the turbo in one direction only because I want the oil
to go down,using gravity,into the pan (I was told that's the way to do
it). When doing this, both nozzles are pointing toward the engine block
!
Now my question: Can I rotate the compressor (the hot side) of the
turbo assembly so the nozzle points in the direction I want to. There
is only six bolts which attaches the housing to the center assembly. I
know I will need to change the gasket. I am just not sure if by
rotating the housing I will screw up something.
Any info on the matter will be appreciated !
A:
When they get old and a little rusty, the housings can be tough to turn, but
all you have to do is loosen the six bolts on either housing and it can be
rotated from the center section. The oil drain must face straight down. The
stock Ford outlet elbow off of the exhaust housing may also be a problem,
since it will face in a given direction from the exhaust inlet. I think it
will be the wrong way for you, as Ford has the exhaust come in frokm the left
and then the exit faces down. This is as viewed while sitting in the drivers
seat. I used a garret outlet that exits straight out the back, but then I had
to bend a fairly tight S to get it under the floor.
As far as turning the housings, just try to take them off, if they won't
turn. The exhaust (cast iron) side, has no seal at all, just a sheet metal
shield that goes between the two cast iron parts and kinda seals it when they
are clamped together. On the intake (aluminum) compressor housing, there
could be an O ring, or a paper gasket, depending on the version. I had one
with the paper and I just used a very thin layer of silicon when I put it
back together. If the housings won't move easily (very likely) you may need
to remove all 6 bolts and soak the joint area in WD-40 or another penatrating
oil, then use a soft face hammer to smack the housing, while you hole the
center section. If there is not enough clearance to remove the bolts, just
loosen them back as far as you can, and then when it moves that far, you can
back them out some more. A propane torch on the housing may also help loosen
it up. My friend even resorts to Acetelene and a BIG hammer.
GoodLuck,
Gary M.
Gary Meissner
Back to Yoshi's Friends
Copyright 1997 Tom Kyle and Gary Meissner, photos courtesy owner