Mountain Roads
Stolen from BikeNet
Written by Mark
Ellott
I remember being introduced to mountain passes as
a teenager when we lived near Machynlleth in north Wales. My father
regularly drove us across the perilously narrow road from Machynlleth to
Rhayader via Staylittle. I failed to understand why he took
this winding, high (very high) and exposed road with nothing between us
and sod all for several hundred feet down into the valley and the added
peril of brain challenged sheep wandering into our path when there was
a perfectly acceptable road via Newtown that only involved an extra
twenty miles or so.
I was, of course, missing the point. While I sat
scared rigid during those journeys I failed to realise that it was the
exhilaration of the drive (albeit in a car) that made the road so attractive.
It's all to do with control. I don't much like riding
pillion and I don't know many riders who do - we'd much rather be at the
controls. Do something dangerous and you will doubtless experience a thrill.
Sit in the passenger seat while someone else does it and you will doubtless
experience fear - because you have no control over the situation.
I rode the road to Machynlleth some years later after
I started motorcycling. It seemed to me that it lost its nightmare factor.
This time I was in control and I enjoyed the ride. Now when I plan a trip
I actively seek out the narrow roads that meander through the mountains
of Europe. If they are yellow lines on the map - or better still, white,
then I am drawn inexorably towards them. When we went to Italy earlier
this year, I pored over the maps looking for suitable passes through the
Alps. Sure enough there is a yellow line that squiggles between Annecy
and the Italian border...
Britain
My first mountains are found near to home. These days
they seem like hills compared to such places as the Pyrennées and
the Alps - but they have some interesting roads nonetheless.
Rhayader to Machynlleth
From Abergavenny take the A40 to Crickhowell
then turn off to the right on the A479 then the A 470 to Builth Wells.
Follow the A470 to Rhayader. On the outskirts of the town you will see
signs for the mountain road to Machynlleth. Take the B4518. This route
will save you about twenty miles but the reason for choosing it has nothing
to do with mileage. Once you are over the cattle grids you are in sheep
territory and the Welsh sheep don't worry overmuch about traffic. Beyond
Staylittle the road forks. Turn left for Dylife. This is a white
road on the map and very interesting it is, too. Eventually you will drop
down the hill into the pretty town of Machynlleth.
Bala to Vyrnwy
From Bala take the B4391 towards Llangynog
- but don't go that far. Shortly after leaving Bala turn right to Rhos-y-gwaliau.
Another white line on the map, this road meanders up the mountain to Alltforgan
on the shore of the artificial lake Vyrnwy. You could take the road
back down towards Llanuwchllyn. If you turn right where the road
splits you will follow the Afon Twrch as it drops down the
mountain to meet the Bala Lake. If you turn left you will descend steeply
to Dinas-Mawddwy. Both roads are worth a ride.
Hard Knott and Wrynose
These passes are classics that I suspect most of us
have ridden at some time. If not, when you go to the lakes seek them out.
Ambleside is on the northern tip of Windermere - probably
the most commercialised water in the lake district. From Ambleside take
the A593 towards Coniston. Shortly after Skelwith Bridge
there is a right hand turn for Little Langdale. Follow this road
through Little Langdale and when the road splits, take the left fork. The
road then climbs steeply. It is also narrow so it pays to avoid the tourist
season or you will be following snails all the way. It also pays to avoid
the winter or the pass will be blocked by snow. Eventually the road will
split again. The left fork will take you past the old man of Coniston and
eventually to Broughton in Furness. The right fork will follow the
Hard Knott Pass bringing you out on the A595 and Ravenglass.
This is not an easy ride. I first attempted it two
up on a Yamaha XS650 - in low gears for much of the way. When we reached
Ravenglass, I felt exhilarated at the ride.
Alston to Middleton In Teesdale
Strictly speaking, this isn't a mountain ride, it's
more about gentle hills and moorland. I include it because if you are in
the Lake District then you should take time out to follow this road. It's
a great ride with fantastic scenery. Head towards Penrith then take
the A686 to Alston. From there take the B6277 to Middleton.
The road descends through what was once Westmoreland as it follows the
river Tees. When you get to Teesdale, stop off at High Force
Waterfall. It is an attractive place to spend an hour or so - particularly
if you like an easy walk.
France
Petit St Bernard
Following the road from Bourg St Maurice to Aosta
in Italy, this is one of the more demanding alpine passes. It climbs steadily
through a series of hairpins to the summit where the road is unguarded.
On the French side, the road surface varies from indifferent to poor. Once
on the Italian side it improves and the descent is more enjoyable. In high
summer watch out for caravans and buses as they make a motorcyclist's life
difficult, particularly on the hairpins. Ride early in the morning and
it is relatively clear and more pleasant. That said - I enjoyed the challenge.
From Chambéry, take the E13 to Albertville
- or from Annecy take the N508 then the E13. From Albertville follow
the N90 to Bourg St Maurice. This takes you through the Col Du Petit
St Bernard to Aosta.
Col Des Montets
This takes you from France to Switzerland, or vice versa.
Like the Col Du Petit St Bernard, high summer sees it plagued by tourists
and their associated paraphernalia like caravans clogging what would otherwise
be an excellent road. Either travel out of season or early in the morning.
This road is the N506 between Chamonix and
Martigny. It is well signposted from both towns. The climb on the
Swiss side is steep and dramatic. Long straights are interspersed with
some very interesting hairpins.
Col Du Somport
From Pau follow the N134 through Oloron St
Marie then Urdos. The Somport pass weaves through the Pyrennées
to Jaca on the Spanish side. As passes go, this is interesting without
being too demanding. The bends are fairly easy and this is a good pass
to get a feel for the mountains. On the Spanish side the road is wide and
gentle - a doddle.
Pourtalet
This runs parallel to the Col du Somport. Pick
up the road from Pau and from Gap take the D934. The first major
town on the Spanish side is Huesca - unless you turn off at Sabiñango
and pick up the Jaca road. This pass follows the Gave d' Oloron
through the gap in the mountains - with its views of tumbling white water
and in some places attractive sheltered picnic spots. It is a little more
tricky than the Somport, but although largely unguarded and narrow it is
not too strenuous.
Corniche De Cevenne
One of my favourites, the Corniche de Cevenne is a difficult
road to find - hidden as it is in the Cevenne national park. I recommend
seeking it out if you are in the area. Basically it is the D9 between St
Jean du Gard and Florac although that is probably an over simplification.
I approach it from Lodeve because I like Lodeve
and if I'm in the area I tend to spend a night there. Follow the D25 to
St Hippolyte du Fort then the D982 to Anduze. There you pick
up the D9 to St Jean du Gard. The corniche is signposted from St Jean,
but it is easily missed. Good luck.
Once on the corniche, the road is well surfaced with
plenty of hairpins and tremendous views - it is also fairly traffic free.
This is probably because no one can find it. In winter you may need to
follow the less interesting D907 - check locally to see if the pass is
open.
Spain
Pica Valeta
From Almeria take the coast road (N340) and turn
inland towards Berja. You are then on the largely unclassified roads.
From Berja continue to Ugijar, then Mecina to Trévelez.
It's a good idea to stop for the night at Trévelez - you will need
the rest. Just outside the town the road to Granada traverses the
Pica Valeta on unmade unguarded carriageway - if carriageway can be used
to describe something that is little more than a cart track. You will have
to go in high summer as it is closed for much of the year.
This is not a road for the novice - it is hard work
whatever bike you ride. It is worth it however.
Switzerland
Simplon Pass
The road between Brig in Switzerland and Domodossola
in Italy is wide, smooth and just twisty enough to be satisfying. As with
other roads in this region, it is busy in high summer. From the Italian
side, take the E2 that skirts the northern shore of Lake Maggiore
then to Domodossola. The road then traverses a series of tunnels and cuttings
before dropping down through breathtaking valleys on the Swiss side - arriving
eventually at Brig on the valley floor.
| Britain |
| Pass |
Open in Winter |
Remarks |
| Ambleside to Eskdale
(Wrynose and Hard Knott) |
May be closed,
check locally |
Steep and twisty,
busy in summer |
| Rhayader to Machynlleth |
May be closed at
certain times |
Relatively little
used. Beware of sheep. Road surface indifferent in places. |
| Bala to Vyrnwy |
May be closed at
times - check locally |
Steep, narrow,
twisty - triffic! |
| Alstone to Teesdale |
May be closed at
times - check locally |
Gentle sweeping
roads through tremendous scenery. Good surface. |
| France |
| Pass |
Open in Winter |
Remarks |
| Bourg St Maurice
to Aosta France to Italy (Petit St Bernard) |
Closed Mid October
to Mid June |
Good surface, twisty,
narrow - some unguarded edges |
| Chamonix to Martigny
France to Switzerland (Col Des Montets) |
Sometimes closed
between December and Early April |
Good surface but
steep on the Swiss side |
| St Jean du Gard
to Florac (Corniche De Cevenne) |
Can be closed -
check locally. Alternative route D907 |
Good road surface
relatively clear. Hairpins |
| Pau to Jaca France
to Spain (Col du Somport) |
Can be closed in
winter but usually open - check locally |
Good road - easy
ride but busy in summer. Unguarded in places. |
| Pau to Huesca France
to Spain (Pourtalet) |
Closed October
to June |
Twisty in places
but relatively easy ride. A good alternative to the Somport. |
| Mont Blanc Tunnel
France to Italy |
Open all year |
Costs 90FF. Customs
on Italian side |
| Switzerland |
| Pass |
Open in Winter |
Remarks |
| Brig to Domodossola
Switzerland to Italy (Simplon Pass) |
Sometimes closed
between November and April |
Wide, relatively
easy road with some hairpins. |
| Italy |
| Pass |
Open in Winter |
Remarks |
| Aosta to Martigny
Italy to Switzerland (Grand St Bernard) |
Closed October
to June |
Relatively easy
- good surface |
| Spain |
| Pass |
Open in Winter |
Remarks |
| Trevelez to Granada
(Pica Valeta) |
Closed from around
October to late June |
Lousy surface,
hard work - good for the soul |