Mills Bouldering Graffiti Block

The Graffiti Block has just recently gained attention at the Mill. For years most boulders just walked past this little gem on the way between Birthday Boulder and the East Face of the Island Block. A few years back I traversed the front top traverse in hikers and tried to get Bob to take notice of the block without much success. This past summer of 1999 others finally became interested in traversing on the block. The fact that the Projects were just closed to climbing added to the flurry to eek out any overlooked rock in the park. Hence the Graffiti Block's time had arrived.

To locate the Graffiti Block look diagonally slightly down hill 150 feet from Birthday Boulder toward the main part of the Rim Road Area. When the dew point gets most of the boulder problems at the Mill wet check out the Graffiti Block, it may be dry since it is a small free standing block that holds a slightly different temperature than the bigger boulders in the area. There are two major traverses on the block, plus a few sit-strart boulder problems.

Brian Janaszek was the first boulder take up an interest in the low traverse, he completed it across the front to the jug and then used the top edge to finish up. Then some time later Brian asked Bob if he had done this crimpfest of a traverse just down from Birthday Boulder. Bob and I then looked all around the boulders below Birthday to find this gem Brian had been on. After carefully looking at all the boulders, even the ones way down toward the creek, we figured Brian was talking about Graffiti Block. At this point Bob just had to figure this traverse out. After Bob did the traverse across the front as Brian had done he was not content to stop there, he was insistent on continuing the low traverse all the way across the front and around the right side to complete the totally low traverse.

Graffiti Traverse, V1, was the first established traverse using the top of the block. Start on the far right all the way around on the downhill corner. Traverse left using the obvious line of pocketed edges, round the steep corner and finish using the top of the block as hand holds all the way across the block to the left corner. If you have the guns after all that reverse the traverse without a rest and finish up where you started on the far right.

Traverse of the Sodomites, V5, is the low traverse with the top edge out of bounds. Start on the left corner of the block. Traverse right on small crimpers until you get to a good hand hold half way across the block. The true crux starts about here. If you are a height challenged boulderer you have a definite advantage at this point. Start thinking real low here, do a drop dyno and continue staying low through extreme crimping. Continue around the steep corner staying low on the right side, your successful if you finish up on the far right down hill corner. First Ascent: Bob Value, 1999.

The name Traverse of the Sodomites was inspired from a violation of the Boulders Ethic. Some "person" more then chipped the best hold on the low traverse, they totally butchered the hold. After some doing the damage was minimized and the remaining hold is not to much different from the original hold, though it will never be the same unique perfect loose brick sized hold again.

And now a few words form Bob Value author of Classic Rock Climbs No. 26 McConnells Mill State Park Pennsylvania: "Traverse of the Sodomites V5. The name relates to the butt dragging low moves on the crux but is also in recognition of the butt-munching individual(s) who chiseled the small rest hold separating the two crux sections of the problem, likely lowering the problems difficulty. You succeeded in chipping the problem down, probably not to your level and creating an eyesore to boot, all in an attempt to satisfy your ego...."

DISCLAIMER
The information contained within or linked to by this website is not bouldering instruction. You should receive professional instruction from a certified bouldering instructor before attempting to boulder. Bouldering can result in severe injury or death. You boulder at your own risk. "Mills Bouldering" accepts no liability whatsoever for actions taken by individuals based upon information presented by or linked to by this website. The editor and publisher of this website offer no warranty that the content of this guide is accurate, the use of this website for the purpose of bouldering indicates that you understand its limitations and agree to accept full responsibility for your actions in a potentially life threatening sport.
Use of a crash pad is always recommended.
This page hosted by GEOCITIES. Get your own Free Home Page.