Crew members get their helmets and then sit down on a log for some fast instruction by the rangers in how to climb. The rangers have their program of instruction put together in such a way that they can get across the safety points without putting the Scouts to sleep. Their talks are "cool," breezy and funny.

   One of the instructors, a Scout who was born in Nepal, flips himself upside down to demonstrate what can happen to a climber in certain circumstances. His belay rope keeps him secure, but it still provokes chuckles to see him dangling upside down on the rock. He has placed his chock in a "bomber" crack in the rock - that means, he says, it wouldn't come loose if a bomb exploded on top of the rock. The other instructors are equally at ease and, while they may look and act like California beach boys, we can see they know what they are doing.

   They give the Scouts some memorable safety rules: "'Look good, have a cool daypack, have a killer tan, get girls, safety." They also tell them that "you don't have to worry about #4 (getting girls) because if you have Nos. 1, 2 and 3, that will come naturally."

At Left: The crew listens to the instructors

   After a laugh, the crew hits the rock. There are only a couple of climbing lanes, so everyone can't climb at the same time. Those on the ground watch intently, however, to see where their predecessors find hand-holds. Climbers are belayed from the top, so occasionally they must call out the specific command for the belayer - one of the instructors - to tighten or give slack in the safety line.

   Those who don't remember the right word are given a hard time until they get the command right. The climb is not an easy one.

   The rock-face has an angle of perhaps 60 or 70 degrees and ranges from about 30 to 40 feet high. There are some scattered hand-holds and foot-holds formed by cracks or irregularities in the rock. But it's not always easy for the climbers to decide upon their next move. The instructors encourage but do not coddle.

   When climbers reach the top of the ridge, they walk a few yards across it to where the rock face becomes steeper. This is the rappeling wall. They get into harnesses and descend. But no one is allowed to get to the bottom without being stopped by the ranger who is belaying them from above. The ranger makes up some nonsense phrase for them to say and demands that they holler it out at the top of their lungs. This makes for some fun. (See the Quotes of the Day entry at the end of today's chapter.)

At Left: Christopher on the wall

   The activity draws to a close. One climb and one rappel per customer. The rangers have managed to get everyone up and down in roughly an hour without any accidents or close-calls. A nice performance.

   It is still early, a little past 10, but we've got more to do this day. We return to our campsite, empty out several backpacks, and, by 11:00 we are heading back down to Ute Gulch. The return trip is made in half the time or less than yesterday's ascent; after all, we're going downhill and our burden is much lighter.

   At Ute Gulch, we draw 3 more days worth of rations and then stop in a shady glen near the supply post to eat lunch. A few other crews come in and find that, by now, the post is closed. The quartermasters typically shut down their posts for a lunch break between noon and 1 p.m.

   One crew, a coed group, settles near us in the shade. We learn they are down-home folks - almost - from Chattanooga. This is the crew that tells us they got lost en route to Vaca several days after we camped there, and that they didn't find the camp until after dark.

   After lunch, it's back down the trail again. This time, instead of turning up the trail that leads to Cimarroncito, we follow a jeep trail that continues to the south and crosses and re-crosses the Cimarroncito River, which is relatively wide here but only a few inches deep.

   As we continue, the sky darkens and that famous Philmont weather seems to be churning up something nasty again. As we turn off the jeep trail where it intersects the Harlan trail, a few raindrops start falling. It will get worse, but we continue. This trail, currently being improved by conservation crews, leads behind Deer Lake Mesa and up to Harlan, which is just above Vaca.

   As we hike further, we see crews at work with shovels and rakes. The closer we get to them, the harder the rain starts to fall. Finally, we see that they are being called in from their labors and that they are stacking their tools. When we reach the ranger, he is in the process of canceling the work project for today. Nevertheless, he signs our itinerary sheet as having showed up for work but having been rained out. That's sufficient to qualify us for the Philmont Arrowhead award, he says, because we did, after all, show up. Still, we are somewhat disappointed because we wanted to relate in later years how we left some of our blood, sweat and tears at Philmont in helping improve trails for future generations. We won't have another chance to work an a conservation project at Philmont because we won't be going near the site in the south country where they are doing similar work.

   The rain ends, although it has left the trail unworkable this day, so we start our return hike to Cimarroncito. We find ourselves leap-frogging with other crews, most of which are carrying full packs. With our lighter gear, we can go faster than they. But we're in no particular hurry so we take lots of stops. They pass us, then stop for a rest break. We pass them and stop for a rest break. The pattern continues for a while.

   Since we didn't have to spend 3 hours on the conservation project, we are running far ahead of schedule. We decide to take a side-hike of Hidden Valley today, rather than tomorrow as scheduled, because Mr. McMahan has expressed interest in taking an alternate route to our next camp, Clark's Fork, in order to go past Waite Phillips' hunting lodge.

   Hidden Valley turns out to be an enchanted land. A narrow trail runs between massive boulders and huge, jagged rock outcroppings. It almost has the feel of a lush, green valley that has been untouched by any other human being. We decide on the spur of the moment to stop at a broad but relatively low rock outcropping and do some bouldering on our own. The crew sheds its backpacks and hits the rocks with glee after being cautioned to keep safety constantly in mind and to watch for possible rattlesnakes in the rocky ledges.

   The crew members do exercise great caution, but spend the next half-hour in almost care-free delight. The formation here is perfect for this kind of activity; not too big, but sufficiently challenging. There are so many separate rock faces to climb, each with its own challenge.

   On the flat tops of some of the larger boulders, pools of rainwater have collected in weather-scoured depressions. We pause to wonder what microscopic life these pools may contain. Just beyond the rock formation lies a small, grassy meadow with spruce and fir. It could have leaped off the canvas of some 19th Century landscape artist.

   It is time to go. We return to the trail and begin hiking back to the intersection with the Cimarroncito trail. But, lo and behold, there is an even better place to climb; one we had not seen when hiking down the Hidden Valley trail. We decide to stop here and boulder, too, but only for about 15 minutes. The rocks are higher and steeper here, and there is more danger.

   After stopping for the allotted time, it really is time to go. But the crew will return to this same spot later tonight with the rangers for the bouldering class we have previously signed up to take.

   Back to,'Cito we go. Some find they have time for showers since Mr. McMahan, who stayed behind to watch the gear, is in the process of preparing supper for us. Supper is quickly devoured, but by this time it is time for the crew to head back down to headquarters for the staff-run bouldering program. Since Ted has done the cooking, I decide to stay behind to do the dishes.

   My time at camp wasn't empty. At one point, a big doe wanders into the campsite, looks at me as if to wonder what I'm doing in her food larder and then begins grazing. Ted tells me later he had also seen a big doe in the campsite that afternoon. The crew members also report deer sightings on the trail between campsite 6 and headquarters.

   The crew members are gone with the rangers until after dark. When they return, everyone is ready to hit the sack. It's been a fun two days here at 'Cito, but tomorrow we'll hit the trail again.

QUOTES OF THE DAY:

(Things the rangers made them yell as they were rappeling)

Richard: "I've got monosodium glutamate in my Gatorade."

Teddy: "All day I dream about being a Scoutmaster." (This from the letters that made up the word "Adidas" on his t-shirt.)

SEEN TODAY: Lots of deer.