"Its three o'clock, time to get up" came from the bed at my head. It was Nima. Nearly everyone was getting up at this time to get a good start over the pass before the wind came up. Went to the kitchen and had a glass of hot water. I had a piece of cinnamon bun left from the night before. Off we went in the dark up that very steep mountain. We could see the lights, carried by the trekkers winding their way up the moutain ahead of and behind us. After the first part, the grade was not so bad, just in parts, but always continually climbing up and over another ridge.

Reached the first tea house and had tea and biscuits. We were very cold. Ram and Hari just had sweaters and one vest between them. Tassie had come back to help Hari over the very steep part. This is the first time for Hari and Nema to go over the pass.

When we came out of the teahouse the sun was shinning. We could not have ordered a more perfect day for crossing the pass. A week or so before there had been a big snowfall and people had to go back down the way they had come up. Note: We were incredibly lucky, the week after we went over, the pass was closed for snow again. This would be a very dangerous place to be in a snow storm.The trail was incredible, narrow and icy in places and winding up and around the mountains. You could look up and down and see people slowly winding their way ever upward. The snow was still deep in some places but there was a good path to follow.

Had to stop often to catch a deep breath. found it easier to breathe if you bent over. Moving very slowly. Took about five steps and stopped to get a deep breath. Had to keep going. Had doubts about why one wants to do these things but once committed you have to keep going. Hence the challenge. Not carrying anything but our sticks.

Reached the summit (5416 meters) at 9.00am. Really ecstactic to make it. The hardest thing I have ever done. Tassie came running down to help Pauline. I think they were all happy that we made it. Had tea, took some pictures, sat in the sun for awhile under the prayer flags, then started a long steep descent to Muktinath.

The scenery now is different but spectacular. Everything looks very dry and the terrain is vast. Pauline is getting tired and her knees are starting to hurt as we are continually going down. I am feeling great and having no trouble yet. I like to keep going with short rest periods. It is so easy going down compared to what we had just done, although you have to keep watching very carefully where you put your feet as the terrain is steep and rocky.

Stopped at a teahouse midway and had lunch. Asked where the toilet was and the lady said just anywhere! We went behind the building. There are no bushes or rocks big enough to get behind up here.

Pauline laid down on the ground and went to sleep in the sun. Ram and Hari both have a headache from the altitude. Hari is suffering in particular. I guess the Diamox helped Pauline and I as we are fine. I gave Hari some Tylenol but it didn't help much. At the teahouse they had a beer. Ram said that usually helped. I guess it acts like a diuretic.

Coming into Muktinath (3802m-12,475") we stopped at the sacred shrine and pilgrimage site for both Hindus and Buddhists. It is like an oasis situated in a grove of Poplar like trees. Near the temple dedicated to Vishnu, the focal point for Hindus, spring water is  piped into the court yard in 108 water spouts in the shape of boar's heads. Because Buddha is the eight incarnation of Vishnu the Hindus tolerate the Buddhists here. This is a temple where people come from all over on a pilgrimage. In the temple a monk smeared our forehead with paint and said a prayer. Gave a donation.

Went to the small Buddhist shrine below the main Hindu temple to see the ( natural gas) flame on water. Another donation. Brahma, the creator, made an offering here by lighting a fire on water. There is a helicopter pad just as you leave the grounds of the temple. The King and Queen come to the temple by helicopter on occasion.

Dawa met us just as we left the temple. He had been ahead of us and had made reservations for us. Went and signed in at the checkpoint across the street from the hotel for both Pauline and myself. This town was a bit like a wild west town in North America. Horses on the streets. Lots of dust and dirt around.

At supper Ram approached us with the idea of flying back to Pokhara from Jomson. He and Hari wanted to go home for the festival which starts the 19th of October. This is the largest Hindu festival of the year. We told him we would discuss it and let him know in the morning. Went to bed early and slept well.

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