Day 14: Sunday October 20th 1996

Kagbeni to Marpha (2667 meters) 8750 feet

Walked along river bed toward Jomson (2713m-8900". When we were almost there we could hear horses coming behind us. It was Edwitze and Nima on horseback. We arrived about 10.30. Went by the airport. We were sitting outside the hotel on the main street and luckily Edwitze saw Pauline going by. She had not seen us there and was going right on. Pauline seems very tired today.

Tassie wanted to go back to Pokhara by plane but couldn't get a ticket for that day. There are regular daily flights to Kathmandu or Pokhara .

There is another checkpoint here also. I have lost track of how many checkpoints there have been. At each one they stamp your trekking permit and sign it. It looks like one big scribble. Watched the planes take off between two high peaks. Had lunch on the patio. They had good minestrone soup. There was an actual flush toilet in the hotel.

We leave early for walk to Marpha, the wind is very strong, picking up dust from the river bed. Luckily today it was not as bad as had been suggested by the guides. Put bandanna over mouth and nose to keep out the dust. Gave my pink bandanna to Hari. Beautiful view of Nilgiri Peak that stays with us all day.

Arrived at Marpha at 1.30. It is protected from the wind. It is a clean village with a drainage system that flows under the flagstone paved street. Decided to stay at the Hungry Eye Hotel at the end of the village. We are told by Gloria , a student from the US staying at the hotel, that they have a strong community association and have worked hard at getting their village cleaned up and run in an efficient manner. First hot showers, first water on my body in about 4 days. Toilet in a strange place up on the roof, through a door and down a few steps. There were sliced apples and tomatoes laid out on trays drying on the roof. The solar panels for the hot water were there also. Good view over the countryside. many apple trees here. They have a television at the hotel and Gloria said the owners favorite programs were Baywatch and NYPD.

Went shopping, returned and had some Raski before dinner.

All are sitting around the Kodatsu table (a table covered with a blanket under which is a charcoal brazier to keep you warm.) again. Tassie, Nima, Edwizie, Caroline, Luc, Madu, Dawa, Hari, Ram, Gloria (an American student from California). The guys are lonesome as this is the beginning of the big Hindu festival and they are not at home. They bought and cooked some sheep meat in the traditional manner and shared it with us. Curry in everything, but I am eating it anyway. Ram suggested we stay here for another day to witness the Buddha ceremony in the morning. We said we would sleep on it.  

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