Since I was heavily influenced by Victorian aesthetics, I decided to build all of the garments in my original line over a period correct corset. I chose the Ladies Victorian Underwear pattern from Laughing Moon to use as a base, as I've heard good thing about this pattern from many other seamstresses. I have some experience making corsets, but this was my first time using steel boning and coutil.

Click on the sketch for a larger image, or check out the idea behind this original line [here].

Skip to in-progress corset.

The Ladies Victorian Underwear pattern features two different corset styles. My first muslin was the Dore version, but using the sizing on the pattern, it came out way too big and I was unhappy with how the corset fit in the bust area (almost shelf-like). So, I tried the Silverado version for my second attempt, which I detail in the next section.

       

Left to right: the Dore muslin front, side, back
[up]   [finished corset]

I tried the Silverado version for my second attempt, which is slightly longer and has more shaping at the top. Since I am long-waisted, I ended up altering the pattern about an inch to extend the waist area, and I reshaped both the upper and lower edges to create a more pleasing line (seen in the second set of front-side-back pictures; the first set shows the fit of the pattern without any alterations). I made the two lacing strips for a previous corset mock up, and they are quite useful for fittings!

                   

Left to right: initial Silverado muslin front, side, back; final muslin front, side, back
[up]   [finished corset]

Temporary spray adhesive (found in the quilting section of most fabric or craft stores) was invaluable when I cut out my three layers of fabric: silk taffeta, coutil, and Egyptian cotton. I cut the coutil and cotton separately, and then adhered the coutil to the silk taffeta fashion fabric before cutting. I basted around the edges of each to then treat them as one piece when sewing.

               

Left to right: cutting the fabric; partially assembled corset: front, detail, side back; corset lacing
[up]   [finished corset]

The completed Victorian corset is silk taffeta lined with Egyptian cotton and strenghtened with an inner layer of coutil. I boned the corset with spring steel purchased from Corset Making Supplies, and bound the upper a lower edges with self-made silk taffeta bias tape. The back laces with size 00 silver grommets that I inserted by hand with an awl and a hammer.

COMING SOON

Left to right: front, side, back
[up]   [finished corset]