| CAR PREP SUGGESTIONS |
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| FIRST, REMOVE ALL CHROME,GLASS, MOLDING,MIRRORS,AND TRIM OF ANY KIND FROM THE EXTERIOR OF YOUR CAR. IT MIGHT NOT ONLY FLY OFF AND HIT ANOTHER DRIVER OR SPECTATOR...BUT CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO YOU. I REALIZE THAT SOME OF THIS STUFF IS HARD TO REMOVE, LIKE THE CHROME ALONG THE BOTTOM EDGE OF THE DOOR GLASS...DON'T TRY JUST PAINTING OVER THIS STUFF, HOPING NOBODY WILL NOTICE. I DID THIS ONCE AND THE CHROME ALONG THE BOTTOM WINDOW EDGE ON THE BACK DOOR, BEHIND MY SEAT, WAS FOUND, THE NEXT MORNING...IN THE DAYLIGHT...STICKING ALL THE WAY THROUGH MY HEADREST AND PROBABLY ABOUT A FRACTION OF AN INCH FROM ENTERING THE BACK OF MY NECK. THIS IS ONE OF THOSE SAFETY THINGS, THAT YOU DON'T CUT CORNERS ON! MY POINT OF VIEW...FROM NOW ON REFERRED TO AS(POV),AS FAR AS INTERIORS GO, IS TO REMOVE ANYTHING THAT CAN BURN. I REMOVE HEADLINER, DOOR PANELS AND HANDLES,BACK SEAT,ALL PLASTIC TRIM, ORIGINAL WIRING,CARPET,PADDING,THE ENTIRE DASH, AND ANYTHING ELSE THAT BURNS OR SMOLDERS. A GOOD SEAT(NOT FALLING THROUGH THE FLOORBOARD),SEATBELT, AND DRIVERS' DOOR PADDING ARE GONNA KEEP YOU IN PLACE, AWAY FROM THE UNPADDED SURFACES....IF USED PROPERLY. REMOVE HOOD AND TRUNK LATCHES COMPLETELY...ONCE STUFF STARTS TO BEND,THEY MAY BE IMPOSSIBLE TO OPEN IN THE PITS WITH THE ORIGINAL LATCHES. TRYING TO REMOVE A TRUNK DECK THAT IS FOLDED UP IN YOUR WAY,WHILE LATCHED...REALLY BITES IN THE PITS. COUNT ON YOUR HOLD DOWNS TO DO THE JOB.THEY ARE WHERE YOU CAN ACCESS THEM. EVEN IF YOUR RULES DON'T REQUIRE IT...RUN A TWISTED STRAND OF NUMBER 9 WIRE,BAR,OR STRAP VERTICALLY IN THE CENTER OF THE WINDSHIELD AREA...TO PREVENT THE HOOD FROM BEING DRIVEN IN THE DRIVERS' COMPARTMENT. THAT CHROME STRIP THAT RUNS DOWN THE CENTER OF THE HOOD...Y E A ! REMOVE IT..DON'T PAINT OVER IT...UNLESS YOU JUST WANT TO BE RUN THROUGH THE CHEST OR NECK WITH IT. DO NOT LEAVE BROKEN GLASS INSIDE THE DOOR PANELS OR SWEEP IT UNDER THE SEAT. MOST LIKELY, YOU WON'T GET TURNED UP ON YOUR SIDE OR TOP...BUT IF YOU DO, YOUR GONNA HAVE TO EAT ALL THAT CRAP YOU WERE TOO LAZY TOO CLEAN OUT! IF YOU HAVE PLASTIC INNER FENDERS....GET RID OF THEM...ONCE THEY CATCH FIRE...THEY ARE HARD TO PUT OUT. REMOVE THAT UNDER THE HOOD INSULATION BLANKET AND ALL THE CRAP YOU DON'T NEED UNDER THE HOOD, WASHER FLUID AND PUKE JUGS,CRUISE CONTROL BOXES AND CABLES,ORIGINAL WIRING, UNUSED VACCUM LINES,POLLUTION CONTROL CRAP, AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR(UNLESS YOU HAVE TO HAVE IT TO RUN YOUR BELTS), ANYTHING THAT IS NOT JUST BARE NECCESSITY TO MAKE IT RUN. COMPLETELY REMOVE ORIGINAL GAS TANK(EVEN IF YOU RULES SAY THAT YOU CAN JUST KNOCK A HOLE IN IT). DO NOT FORGET TO REMOVE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLES UNDER YOUR CAR!!!!!CUT THEM OFF, JUST IN FRONT OF THE REAR DRUMS AND REMOVE ALL THE CABLE. THEY WILL STICK OR BREAK OR GET TANGLED AROUND THE DRIVESHAFT. I PREFER TO RUN MY EXHAUST THROUGH THE HOOD, SO THAT IF THERE IS FIRE IN THE EXHAUST...THE OFFICIALS CAN SEE THAT IT IS NOT BURNING FUEL OR TRANNY FLUID, UNDER THE CAR. BUT, IF YOU ARE GOING TO RUN YOURS UNDERNEATH...ALLOW ENOUGH LENGTH NOT TO ALLOW FIRE FROM IT TO HEAT UP YOUR BATTERIES ON THE FLOORBOARD, STARTER, WIRING, OR ANYTHING ELSE VALUABLE. REMOVE CONVERTER,MUFFLER, AND TAILPIPE COMPLETELY. IF YOU ARE RUNNING THE EXHAUST THROUGH THE HOOD...MAKE THEM POINT STRAIGHT UP. I'VE SEEN SOME IDIOTS RUN THEM FORWARD TO THE FRONT OR OUT TO THE SIDES,,,,THIS SUCKS FOR THE GUY THAT YOU MAY BE PARKED AGAINST,DURING THE DERBY...EVEN BRIEFLY. TAKE A HAMMER AND BEND OVER OR FLATTEN ANYTHING INSIDE OR OUT THAT IS GOING TO PUNCTURE OR GET A GOOD BITE OF YOUR SKIN, WHILE EITHER WORKING ON OR DRIVING THE CAR. NOW THAT YOU'VE GOT THAT MOUND OF TRASH...3 TIMES LARGER THAN THE CAR THAT YOU REMOVED IT FROM. PILE IT OUT OF SITE AND COVER IT UNTIL YOUR READY TO SCRAP THE CAR...THEN STUFF IT BACK IN BEFORE HAULING IT OFF...OR IF YOUR LUCKY, YOU ALREADY HAVE AN EMPTY SCRAP BODY TO FILL. OR DO AS I DO AND BAG IT UP AND TAKE IT ONE BAG AT A TIME, FOR THE NEXT 6 WEEKS, INTO WORK TO DEPOSIT IN THEIR DUMPSTER....JUST KIDDING! GLASS IS THE BIGGEST PROBLEM REMOVING....I DON'T CARE HOW GOOD YOU GET ...YOUR GONNA BREAK SOME. TRY COVERING THE BACK SIDE OF THE GLASS WITH DUCT TAPE BEFORE REMOVING. SPREAD AN OLD BLANKET OR DROP CLOTH INSIDE THE CAR AND TAPE IT UP JUST BELOW THE WINDOWS TO CATCH BROKEN GLASS..IT'LL SAVE YOU TIME. WINDSHIELD REMOVAL IS THE WORST. BEST RESULTS ARE FROM USING A SPECIAL REMOVAL KNIFE OR TOOL DESIGNED FOR THIS PURPOSE, WHICH IS KIND OF EXPENSIVE, BUT WORTH IT. A GOOD TOOL IS PIANO OR WIRE GUITAR STRINGS ...PULLED BACK AND FORTH LIKE A SAW FROM THE INSIDE OUT. LONG BLADED RAZOR KNIVES...TAKES SOME WORK AND REQUIRE PATIENCE AND WATCH FOR SNAPPING BLADES. THE SIT IN THE SEAT AND PUSH OUT WITH YOUR FEET METHOD....IS STRONGLY DISCOURAGED. YOU'LL BE EATING A LOT OF GLASS DUST AND SLIVERS AND IF YOUR LUCKY ENOUGH NOT TO CUT YOUR FEET OFF AT THE ANKLES...YOU WILL ENJOY THOSE LITTLE BALLS OF GLASS THAT RUN DOWN YOUR PANT LEGS INTO YOUR FRUIT OF THE LOOMS! YOU MAY NOT NOTICE THAT UNTIL IT'S TOO LATE. NOW THAT WE'VE STRIPPED THIS SUCKER DOWN LIKE A BMW IN FRONT OF A BORDER TOWN TAVERN......LET'S GET ON TO OTHER STUFF. |
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| CLICK HERE TO ENTER BASIC CAR PREP CONTINUED PART 2 |
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| CLICK ON PLATE TO GO BACK TO BASIC CAR PREP & RULES PAGE 4 |
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| BACK TO BRUISE BROTHERS MAIN PAGE 1 |
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