Myanmar Burma Inle Lake Bagan Yangoon Mandelay

MEINUNG / ERFAHRUNGEN / ZUSAMMENFASSUNG
Trotz einem Militärregime, dass strikt kontrolliert und Mennschenrechte verletzt, hilft ein Besuch von Myanmar mehr als er schadet. Man sollte wo möglich darauf achten Private, statt in Militärbesitz befindliche Unternehmen zu berücksichtigen zum Beispiel bei Transport und Unterkunft oder kleine Geschenke mitbringen wie englische Magazine. Die Bewohner sind hilfsbereit, haben ein herzliches Lachen und sind sehr gastfreundlich. Es gibt unzählige religiöse Stätten und das Gebet und der Glaube ist ein wichtiger Bestandteil des Lebens eines jeden Burmesen. Es ist das golden Land mit einer vielseitigen Anzahl von Tempeln, Pagoden, Stupas und Klöster. Der Transport ist bedächtig, aber oftmals ob mit Boot, Bus oder Zug gibt es einiges zu sehen am Wegrand. In Handwerk und Landwirtschaft gibt es noch kaum moderne Hilfsmittel; so muss es bei uns vor etwa hundert Jahren gewesen sein. Bagan mit seinen hunderten von alten Bauwerken kann sicherlich als ein Weltwunder bezeichnet werden. Zum verweilen lädt der Inle See ein mit seinen schwimmenden Gärten.
HIGHLIGHTS / TIPS	NICHT GANZ SO TOLL / SEIN LASSEN
Bagan: Ein architektonisches Weltwunder mit hunderten von alten Tempeln, Pagoden und Stupas.	Das Militärregime, dass Bewohner unterdrückt, ausnützt und jede Meinungsfreiheit einschränkt.
Inle Lake: Die schwimmenden Gärten, die Handwerkstätten, die Fischer und Bauern bei der Arbeit beobachten oder einfach den Sonnenuntergang bewundern.	Die Wichtigkeit der Religion und die Klassengesellschaft, die beide für politische oder geschäftliche Vorteile ausgenutzt werden.
Die Herzlichkeit und Gastfreundlichkeit der Bewohner, die es sehr schwer im Leben haben. Viel über Land, Leute und Regierung erfährt man beim Besuch der Pwe Vorführung der Moustache Brothers in Mandelay.
Religiöse Stätten wie die Shewdagon Paya in Yangoon oder der vergoldete Felsentempel Mount Kyaiktiyo.

My trip begins with a taxi trip from the airport to the city centre of Rangoon; first impressions are golden temples, a military parade and busy and noisy streets. I find nice place to stay at the Mayshan Guesthouse near the Sule Pagoda, the pulsing centre of the city. The owners and employees are friendly and helpful. A short walk brings me down to the river area, which is kind of disappointing, visit a first temple and have a look at one of the numerous markets. After I organized the transport for the next days, I walk in the afternoon to the gigantic, impressive Shwedagon Paya, which has a golden cupola of almost one hundred meters. The access is through one of the four roofed stairways along of hundreds of salesman or with an elevator. Many statues, pavilions, stupas, decorations often covered in gold are waiting to be seen. The visit of thousands of "pilgrims" every day makes it to a very special "mystical" experience.

With Yangoon Airways, I fly to Mandelay. Cho drives me with his rickshaw to the Mahamuni Paya an old and important pilgrim place. Once again I can see how important religion for all inhabitants in Myanmar is. The visit of a monastery is interesting and the conversations with the monks are intensive and an exchange of new ideas to think about. After a short Siesta over the terrible hot noontime, my trip goes along the gigantic city wall, to two further pagodas before I climb up Mandelay hill with a good outlook down to the city. After a good and spicy Burmese Curry, I visit the Pwe performance of the Moustache Brothers. The performance includes dances, comedy and music presented by Lu Maw in almost perfect English. The oldest of the brothers Par Par Lay is back, after 7 years of prison just because making a joke over the regime in Myanmar. None of the inhabits has the freedom to criticise the government in public or organizing demonstrations. On the Ayerarwady River, the boat trip goes to Mingun an ancient royal city. Along the way peoples are loading and unloading goods on boats or fishing on the river. After leaving the pier the pathway leads trough an old peoples home where about one sixty peoples need to share one room and about two toilets. Next comes the Mingun Paya. The view over the river, landscapes and villages is well deserved, after 10 minutes climb up barefoot (Always take off your shoes before you visit a religious building). The other attractions are an old bell with a weight of 90 tons and the almost totally in white Hsinbyume Paya temple which has the form of a mountain.

With an overcrowded minibus I leave Mandelay to Pyin U Lwin an old English hill station. Here it is less hot, so even a walk over noontime is agreeable and brings me away from the noise and traffic jam. A stroll to the markets, monastery, churches or simply a cup of tea in the teahouse let enjoy the laid back atmosphere of the town. It is a spectacular way back down to Mandalay with the railroad over a huge viaduct and along sharp and narrow turns

The night train to Bagan is a slow, bumpy and dusty matter, but a good to enjoy the scenery and meet the local peoples. Nyaung U is a good base for exploring the archaeological sites with many guesthouses, a market and a nice selection of tasty meals. With an older bicycle, but with thick tyres for the sand and dirt roads I drive daily the 4-5km to old Bagan and back. It is an amazing area spread over 40 square kilometres with hundreds of archaeological buildings (temples, Pagodas, Stupas) built between the 10 – 12 century. Earthquakes and lootings did destroy a lot of thing in the last 100 years but there is still incredibly much to see: The majestic and partly restored Shegugyi Patho, Ananda Patho, Thatbyinnyu Patgo or the Mahabodhi Paya. Everywhere are inscriptions, impressive drawings; golden and silver statues of Buddha (lying or sitting) or statues of Hindu Gods like Ganesh. Early in the morning or late afternoon is well worth climb one of the temples (naturally where it is permitted) to see the sunrise/sunset and enjoy the great panorama. Glittering Stupas, temples in all shades and colours and the river can be seen. From the city wall only the entrance gate and two statues are left over, which tradition says guard against bad Nat ghosts. It is nowadays still an important religious centre for the surrounding population and a study object for the monks.

I fly to Heho and a taxi brings me down to Nyaungshwe the gateway for Inle Lake, along a road, which is still under construction and renovation. As in Myanmar usual Woman are making most of the hard construction work I stayed at the Four Sister guesthouse, a cosy pension with tradition, led by 3 (sister number 4 is in Germany) lovely old ladies. The large market is very important for the peoples of this area. It is crowded with goods from and around the lake, like vegetables, fruits, fish, flowers and cigars. Peoples are busy with having a chat, exchanging news and buying things for the daily use. Unfortunatelly an egg curry does ruin my stomach, so that I am sick for the next two days. A local guide brings me with his motorboat to the villages built on or at the edge of the lake. The houses are built on stilts with beautiful swimming gardens mostly next to the front door. It is nice to see how traditional work (cigars manufacture, vicinity working) is made, but there is an increase of souvenir shops offering cheap goods for high prices. Whole families are working here together: The father is cultivating the fields with an ox, the mother is manufacturing goods, the daughter is washing clothes and the brother is fishing on the lake. Not be missed should also a visit to the Pagoda (Phaung Daw U) and at least one monastry (Nga Phe Kyaung). Inle Lake is an ideally place to hung out, read a book, to explore the surrounding fields and villages or simply enjoy the sunset.

Back to busy Rangoon and from there it is an at least seven hour bus trip to Kyaiktiyo where the golden rocks stands on the very edge of a cliff; only hold from falling down by a hair of Buddha. A Pickup drives slowly up the hill and stops at a small village; from there it is an other hour to walk to the Stupa. Arrived on the top you will hear some soft music and every day the monks receive theirs gifts from the hundreds of pilgrims visiting this holy side every day. The pilgrims lure sheets of fine gold on the Golden Rock and everybody makes a picture of their visit. When the sun goes down it is a wonderful view down the valley and reminds the people to make their way down. Next day I move on to Bago, which lies just 60km outside the capital. I visit the second largest cloister of the country where unfortunately because of the vacation only a few monks are around. Again there are many temples, statues and other sights to see, but after seeing so many I am looking forward to some change.

The last day before I leave Myanmar I spend with the visit of the large market Bagyoke Aung San and a stroll trough the lovely park of Kandawgyi. The evening you can spend as most locals do in Rangoon with the visit of a teahouse to exchange the newest gossip. If you got some more money to spend there are a couple of Pubs and bars with live bands; it takes a while to get used that all the lyrics of the popular western pop songs are performed in Burmese language.

OPINION / EXPERIENCES / SUMMARY
My opinion is that even with a military regime that strictly controls and doesn’t care about human rights a visit of Myanmar helps more than to leave the country in isolation. You can help if you consider private business instead of military owned company’s for example in transportation, lodging or simple bring little gifts like English magazines. Everybody I meet is very helpful, friendly and always hospitable. There are numerous religious sites and praying and the belief is an important component in the life of each Burmese. It is the golden country with many attractions like Pagodas, Stupas and monastery’s. Transportation is slow, but often whet ever with boat, bus or train a good way to meet locals and have a look at the wonderful countryside. The manufacturing of crafts and the agriculture is hardly modernized; a good chance to see “handwork” and tradition before it vanished maybe forever. Bagan with it hundreds of old temples is certainly a world miracle. A good place to relax and for small excursion to the surrounding is Inle Lake with its swimming gardens. .
HIGHLIGHTS / HINTS	NOT AS GOOD / LET IT BE

Bagan: an architectural world wonder with old Temples, Pagodas and Stupas.	The military regime/gouverment, which suppress, takes advance from the locals and doesn’t care about human rights.
Inle Lake: the swimming gardens, watch the fisherman or the farmers at work or simply enjoy the romantic sunset.	The importance of religion and a class society, which are both used for political and economic advantage of the rich and powerful.
The always friendly and very hospitable locals who got a hard live. Many things about peoples, history, the country and it regime you can learn by simple visit the Pwe Performance of the Moustache Brothers in Mandelay.
Religious sites like the Shewdagon Paya in Rangoon or the golden rock at Mount Kyaiktiyo.