In search of the real Dakota
 
 
As anyone with a minimal knowledge of U.S. geography knows, there are two Dakotas. North Dakota and South Dakota are, appropriately enough, adjacent to one another. They have a common border stretching for several hundred miles. Both are largely rural, with innumerable farms and ranches. Both straddle the geocultural line between Midwest and West. Both have Badlands. Yet they are vastly different places.
South Dakota is more varied in terms of its terrain, thanks to the Black Hills  --  real mountains that top out above 7000 feet. Its badlands are starker, more fantastic, than their counterparts to the North, and have an almost otherworldly look and feel to them. North Dakota is somewhat gentler. Like its neighbor, it's flat as a pancake in the east, where the Red River Valley cuts a fertile swath on its northward journey. (Yes, northward. This Red River flows into Canada!) West of this is rolling prairie, seemingly endless grassy bluffs with scattered lakes and sloughs. Even further west the land gets rougher, with steep buttes and rugged canyons. The North Dakota badlands are a little greener than their southern cousins, a little less bizarre looking. North Dakota has no real mountains, and its highest point, White Butte, is picturesque and vaguely forbidding looking but hardly alpine in its dimensions.
Other physical differences exist. Being farther north, North Dakota is colder. It also gets slightly more snow (though not nearly so much as states farther east, where the Lake Effect boosts snowfall significantly). These are minor differences, though. Both states are cold and snowy enough to make winter a beautiful, if sometimes perilous, season.
In terms of tourist attractions, South Dakota wins hands down. The Black Hills, being real mountains, draw real crowds. Among the Black Hills are such sites as Mount Rushmore (and the nearby Crazy Horse-in-progress), Wind Cave and Jewel Cave, and the famous wild west towns of Lead and Deadwood. Nearby is Hot Springs, an unpretentious little town that nonetheless has -- you guessed it -- hot springs. Not far to the east are Badlands National Park and Wounded Knee. Further east is the home of beloved children's author Laura Ingalls Wilder. Still further east is Sioux Falls, not exactly a metropolis but with a six-digit population. North Dakota, by contrast, has no big cities (Fargo, at around 70,000, is the largest), no children's literature icons, no geothermal baths, no public caves, no dynamite-sculpted cliffs. But Theodore Roosevelt National Park and the badlands it protects teem with wildlife, and Medora is a genuine western town with historic significance. Other historic sites, such as Fort Abraham Lincoln and Fort Union, are well worth a visit, as is the International Peace Garden.
So why would anyone choose North Dakota over South Dakota to visit? In short, because bigger, higher, and more famous don't always add up to better. The Black Hills in midsummer are overcrowded and overpriced. Mount Rushmore, though clever, is really a little tacky. (The gift shop at Mount Rushmore is worse than tacky, and the cafeteria is unspeakably bad.) In the North Dakota badlands, by contrast, it is quite possible, even at the peak of tourist season, to find peace and quiet. Medora bustles a bit, but it's a five-minute walk in any direction to an uncrowded spot where you can stand and watch prairie dogs and bison and listen to the wind blow.
Finally, there are the people. I won't attempt to characterize the people of South Dakota (just as I try not to make generalizations about any group of people), but in my experience North Dakotans are the friendliest people I've ever met. Obviously, there are exceptions, but almost all of the North Dakotans I've interacted with have been outgoing, helpful, and cheerful. One interesting difference between the two states is the crime rate. South Dakota's crime rate is pretty close that of a lot of other states. North Dakota's, interestingly, is either the lowest or second lowest in the country, depending on how you measure it. (For violent crimes it's lowest. Some counties in other states average more homicides per day than the entire state of North Dakota sees in a year.) Whether the low crime rate stems from the people's friendliness or the the friendliness is a result of the low crime rate, I don't know, but it's hard to dismiss it as coincidental.
Does any of this make North Dakota the "real" Dakota? Of course not. A proposal to rename North Dakota simply "Dakota" periodically crops up in the state legislature, but it's never gained momentum. The fact is, each of the Dakotas has a lot going for it. If popular tourist venues and mountains are prerequisites for spending time in a state, go to South Dakota. If you treasure subtlety and solitude, and if quiet pastimes don't bore you, North Dakota might just be your cup of tea.

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