driving

*** This information was given to me by Hagger Supply upon purchase of driving equipment ***

TOPICS
CHOOSING YOUR GOAT
THE HARNESS
TRAINING YOUR GOAT
TRAINING A TEAM
ROAD MANNERS
SHOWING YOUR HARNESS GOAT
MANAGEMENT CALENDAR
IMPORTANT TERMS TO KNOW

Training and working a goat in harness is an activity that is educational, challenging and very rewarding. But most importantly, it's FUN. This is a project that reaches out to all age groups.

Because of its size, a goat is easier to handle and involves less danger to the child than most large animals. Driving is an activity that involves some skills; but skills that are within the reach of almost every child and adult.

   Many of our grandparents remember the family goat that was used not only for milk, but also driving. Many youngsters remember taking a ride on the goats back pretending it was a big horse. Now goat driving is once again becoming popular across the country. Many possibilities have been suggested for the using of harness goats. For many years they have been hitched singly or in teams to two-wheeled carts for four-wheeled wagons for children or farm work.

There's fun as well as usefulness in having a goat that you can train to pull a cart. As a pet, a goat is unsurpassed, even by a dog. Children love a well trained goat that can pull them around in a cart. For light hauling jobs a goat can help pay his way around your home.

If tile cart has a neat advertisement painted on it, it is immediately a highly effective medium for drawing the attention of the public to the dairy goat. Placed in line at parades and celebrations, the inexpensive goat cart, Drawn by an attractive wether, or doe may well outshine the expensive floats of others. At fairs the goat cart being driven around the fairgrounds focuses attention on the 4-H goat project as nothing else will.

CHOOSING YOUR GOAT

When choosing your goat, try to choose one with large, powerful parentage. The larger the goat the more he/she will be able to pull. Pick a goat that you like, one that you can be happy with. Your goat will learn faster, and do better if you enjoy each other's company.

When you bring your kid home, make him/her a part of the family. A bottle fed kid will usually be tamer and more "humanized". Affection is the best tool for training a goat. A goat will work better for praise than he will for fear of punishment. Make your goat want to please you!

THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN SELECTING AN ANIMAL

Does are primarily dairy animals kept for their milk. They can make good driving goats although they lack the large size of bucks and wethers. Their smaller size limits the weight they can pull.

Bucks have an offensive odor at times and cannot always be depended on during breeding season. However a limited amount of work pulling a cart, cultivator, or other implement provides excellent exercise for the breeding male and helps him pay his way. Working and exercise also improves his temperament.

The best type of goat to use is a wether or castrated male. The larger the wether, the stronger he will be and the more weight he will be able to pull. Wethers are usually larger than does and can pull more than a doe. An ideal wether will be 36 to 38 inches high at the wethers (top of the shoulder). A large, full-grown wether will weigh 250 pounds or more. If you are raising a driving Nether, it is very important that you feed him well so that he grows fast, strong and big. A bottle fed wether should be frequently handled when he is young. He should be trained to lead early and treated gently so that he stays gentle and easy to work with. Always treat the goat gently but firmly, and he will be gentle. Treat your goat roughly or harshly and he will be rough. With patience and gentleness, goats are probably easier to train than horses and dogs. With care you will have working harness animal that can hold his own in any company, and does full justice to his classification as a harness animal.

Developing a standard harness goat is a fairly easy matter. Care in selecting the kid is about the only essential concern. The size is important. Try to find a kid that has been sired by the largest buck in your area. The buck kid should be castrated as soon as possible. All kids intended for harness use should be handled constantly from an early age.

THE HARNESS

The best and safest way to drive your goat is with a harness and a bridle that has a stiff-mouth or snaffle bit 3 to 3 1/4 inches wide, with one-inch rings. This type of bit can be removed while the animal is resting or feeding without removing the entire bridle.

The harness can either be bought or made. We recommend buying adjustable harnesses to fit the size of your goat. Adjustable harnesses must either be made of all leather or of leather and web strap, with the leather used where adjustment buckles are located.

A standard small size Shetland pony harness will fit a goat. Some small changes such as removing the crapper will need to be made. Using the britchen is optional. A pony bridle will not fit on a goat's smaller more delicate head. Any animal, especially a harness goat, is entitled to good, comfortably fitting harness so he can perform his best. A harness goat must be trained and driven with a bit in his mouth for safe and efficient driving. Bridle, reins and harness must all be strong, since the power a standard harness goat can exert is truly surprising.

TRAINING YOUR GOAT

Selecting your goat is the first step in successfully training it to pull a cart.

When you are ready to begin training your kid, you may make a small halter for him from baler twine. Take him outside and set him on the ground with you kneeling beside him. Gently turn his head from side to side with the halter. Make sure your hand is behind his mouth, so he gets used to the pressure coming from the back. Be gentle but firm, keep the work session short, after you are finished, and play with him so he will have a pleasant memory of the session. Occasional treats are OK but be careful as some goats will become addicted and refuse to work without them.

As your baby grows, you should break him to lead with a collar and lead line. A goat's "kidhood" is also the best time to introduce him to his first harness, as a kid will take new experiences much more calmly than an older animal. To do this, a dog or cat harness will work very well and may be bought at any pet store. If your kid is larger, a calf or pony halter will work just as well. Before putting the harness on your kid, let him see and smell it, so he will not become frightened. Once the harness is on, put it gently back and down so the kid becomes accustomed to pressure on his chest and back. Let the kid wear the harness in his stall, or the pasture for an hour or two, but be sure there is nothing he will become hung up on!

As your goat becomes accustomed to the harness and being led, take him for walks. This will get him used to people, cars, and other things that may frighten him. Always be calm when you are with your goat. If he is startled by something let him stand and look at it, so the next time he will not be frightened. Each time you go for a walk, go a little farther. This will build up his endurance and get him used to the ways of the road.

After several days of harnessing the goat, take your goat out with a lead rope connected to the bridle, and have someone else handle the reins at the rear. The reins should hang loosely and at his back flank level. Put the reins at this level lo keep him from turning around to face the driver. If he starts to turn you can gently pull the reins and he can feel them along his sine. Work him for about only 15 minutes at one time so he won't loose interest. You can repeat this lesson 2 or 3 times a day. As your goat progresses you will no longer need a lead on the bridle. In time you should teach your goat verbal cues of "Whoa", and "Back up". You might not want to do much backing until you put your goat between the firs.

Be very careful on how you use the reins when training your goat. A goat has a very sensitive mouth. Too much hard pulling will give him sores in the corner of his mouth and the corners of his mouth will get tough and callused. "Hard mouth" refers to an animal that does not respond to gentle pulls of the reins. A hard-mouthed animal is also harder to manage. It is always a good idea to use a bridle with a bit when we are driving our goats. Without a bit, you could not control a frightened animal. Safety, for both the goat and the driver, is very important.

After you have successfully completed all of these steps, (Remember, they take time) it is time to introduce your goat to pulling in the firs. The safest way is to make a travis, this can be easily built with two straight saplings and at least two support boards at one end. When you are ready to hitch him. You will have to attach fil loops and tugs to support and pull the travis. You should stay at the goat's head to quiet him, and have a friend pull the travis to the goat. Rub the fils along the goat's sides, so he is aware of them on both sides. Lead the goat, hitched to the travis for the first week, two short work sessions a day. Always remember to praise him/her, as this is the most important step in training.

The next step requires a bridle and a friend to handle the reins. Many goats will object to the bit, so it may be a good idea to let him wear it in the stall for an hour a day so he is accustomed to it and will not become upset.

When you start to drive your goat, you should stay at his head, as you are the person he trusts and will feel most comfortable with. Have your friend pull slightly on a rein while you give him a tug on the collar about the same time. If he/she does it right, let him know. As your goat progresses, drop back to his side. Eventually you will be able to handle the reins, and drive your goat. Practice with your goat on turns and figure eights, so he learns to lean into the fils and cross his front legs.

After working with the goat for several days, he should walk along with you easily. It is now time to hook him to a cart. Remember, to not take a second step in training your goat until your goat is comfortable with the first step.

When you are ready to try a cart, remember to get a cart that will fit your goat. A cart that puts too much pressure on a goat will be uncomfortable and cause him to not want to work. Lead him first, as a cart has a much different feel. When you start to drive him, pick a quiet, familiar place where he will not be distracted. Work him here until you both are familiar with the cart and each other's habits, and then you are ready to tackle some new places.

1. Let the goat smell the cart, something new is scary until your goat knows that he won't get hurt.

2. Hold your goat carefully. Have someone bring the cart up and move the fils to the goat's sides.

3. Carefully rub the goat's side with the firs. Gently move him from side to side. Let him feel the fils next to him.
4. Do not hook your goat up the first time. As long as the fils are loose you can control your goat and drop the      fils if he gets scared.

5. Be patient. All goods things take time!

6. After the goat is very comfortable in the firs, you can start to walk the goat with the cart.

7. The first time with the cart, don't add any extra weight. Let the goat get used to the feel of something behind   him.

8. Gradually begin to add weight to the cart, perhaps by leaning on the cart.

As soon as the goat moves forward easily in the cart, start training him to back up. Hitch the goat to the cart with someone standing behind with the reins and a second person at the goat's head. The head person should hold the reins below the goat's chin and then use the other hand to push on the goat's shoulder while saying "back." Pull gently on the reins. With practice, the goat will backup with a gentle pull on the reins. Be sure to teach your goat to back in a straight line.

Safety is always an important concern in any animal project. When we harness a goat we tie the goat with a halter. The bridle is the last thing we put on our goat. The bridle goes on just before we put the goat in the traces. When we unhitch, we take our goat off of the firs, take off the bridle, and put on a halter before taking off the rest of the harness. You and your goat can enjoy the experience more if you follow these simple steps to keep your goat quiet and controlled.

Check after the training session to see if the goat has any sores on the corners of his/her mouth. Be alert to your goat's needs. Is he getting tired, bored or upset? Gauge your training time accordingly. Make it fun. Give him a pat and a special treat. Show him you think he's cone well.

Be sensitive to your goat. Each goat is different. Use your common sense and imagination. Be innovative, if your goat is shy and frightened, bring along another goat. If there is a problem, don't fight the goat, work on solving the problem.

As you walk with your goat, choose two commands that you will use to stop and move him ahead. Stop your goat using one command and then move ahead with the second command. Do not work too long at first.

Another important thing to do is use a few command words such as "Whoa" and "Get up". Speak loud and firm when saying these commands to your goat. Make the goat do the command is each time you say the word. By the time, is pulling you in the cart, it will know what your command words mean and will do what you want.

One other important thing to do is to treat your goat with its favorite snack each time you are finished or when it does what you ask it to do. However, do not use treats too freely or the animal will begin to expect them all the time and refuse to perform without them.

Remember, you must have patience and work with your goat every day until it learns what you want it to do. If you do this, in a few short weeks it will be pulling you around in a cart, and you will enjoy your goat more than ever.

SOME DON'TS

Don't work too long. Keep an eye on your goat. Work a few minutes at first, but no longer than 15 minutes

Don't yell at, or jerk your goat.

Never hit or kick your goat.
Use of the whip

At this point it is important to discuss the use of a whip in training and driving. A whip can be a help in training the goat and in transmitting your commands. Introduce the use of the whip when you start using the reins and begin working behind the goat. At some point, the goat may decide it will not move ahead on his/her own. An encouraging whack on the rear flank usually does the trick. There is little need to do this very often. In fact a tap on the file will get the message across without touching the goat. Never beat or whip your goat. This is not the point of the whip and if you have to depend on it, something has gone wrong with the training.

The whip is also handy when taking your goat on his training walks as a protective measure against charging dogs.

TWELVE POINTS TO PONDER

1. We suggest that you use wethers for cart.

2. Select a nether out of a large doe and buck.

3. Make him your friend starting at birth.

4. Feed him well, he will grow for five years.

5. Be sure your goat does not have a parasite problem. Delouse and worm him on a regular basis.

6. His feet should be kept trimmed but don't trim him right before an extended workout.

7. Start training at two months to walk with a lead line.

8. An adult goat can pull twice his own weight.

9. Generally speaking, a goat can be pulling by 10 or 11 months, providing it's a well-balanced cart. (If it puts pressure on his back it is not well balanced.)

10. On the average, an adult goat with consistent daily workouts can be pulling after two weeks of training.

11. In condition, an adult goat can pull 3 or 4 miles.

12. Have a good time. Make it fun.

TRAINING A TEAM

When you choose the goats for your team, try to find two animals equally matched in size and ability. Train each goat to drive separately before you hitch them together. Pen the goats together, so they become familiar with each other, they will be less inclined to fight when they are hitched together.

If you have other driving goats, hitch the younger, inexperienced animal with an older, trustworthier goat. Goats will often learn from each other. If you do not have other driving goats, hitch the goat that is most likely to be spooked or frightened on the right, so he will be away from any traffic.

Never drive your goats on the road until you are sure you know the way they will react. You will need a driving whip to keep the goats pulling evenly. Usually one goat will want to slack off and let the other do the hard work. Use the whip only as encouragement, often slapping the wagon or tongue will be enough.

Always remember to praise your goats, and to be careful.

ROAD MANNERS

Road manners are very important. Here are a few hints to help you train your goat to accept anything that might happen.

1. Introduce your goat to a wide variety of strange sights, sounds and places. If you plan to drive your goat in a parade, marching band music and a record player can help. You might even want to take your goat to a marching band practice. A goat may be afraid of strange sounds, but once he is used to the sounds, he will ignore them. Other sounds like truck horns, chimes, and train whistles can also scare a goat.

2. Always watch what is happening. Try to anticipate anything that might scare your goat. A piece of paper blowing in the breeze, a child�s noisy toy, an opening umbrella or a person running into the path may scare a goat.

3. Watch your goat's ears, they can tell you how he will react. If he is scared, try talking to him. Be prepared for anything.

4. When you are driving along a road for the first time, take along a second person that can jump off the cart and go to the goat�s head to calm him.

5. Whenever you drive your cart, be sure your harness and cart are in good working order. Check the reins, straps and traces on the harness. Check the wheels and wheel hubs to make sure everything is safe. Also be sure the harness is properly adjusted for the goat.

6. On the road give clear hand signals to let everyone know what you are doing and where you are going.

7. Never leave your goat alone while he is hitched to the cart. He might decide to lie down and get tangled in the traces.

Goat racing may sound like fun, but racing can be dangerous.

An inexperienced driver or small child may try to drive your goat someday, and get hurt when your goat starts to run. If you are interested in racing, always do it with adult supervision and on a smooth, straight track.

SHOWING YOUR HARNESS GOAT

The harness goat project can be a multi-year project. The first year of the project, a 4-H member can take a kid in the harness kid class. The second year the animal can come back as a harness yearling and the third and succeeding years the animal will be in the senior harness class.

Showing and judging rules will probably vary by show. The following guidelines are offered as a help to 4-H members and fair officials.

DRIVING GOAT CLASS SUGGESTIONS

Harness kid - Kids must be halter broken and led with a lead strap. Animal should respond to voice commands of stop, go, and back.

Harness yearling - Yearlings will be harnessed and pull an empty cart. The animal should respond to voice commands of stop, go back, left, and right.

Senior harness - Seniors will be harnessed and pull a child?driven cart. The animal must respond to commands of stop, go back. Left and right while pulling the cart through an obstacle course.

Good grooming is important in all classes.

DRIVING GOAT JUDGING SCORECARD

1. Appearance of animal 20 points
2. Appearance of exhibitor 20 points

3. Overall appearance of cart and harness 20 points
4. Performance of animal in show ring
(Following commands)

40 points TOTAL 100 POINTS

When showing driving goats, all goats shall enter the ring at a walk. The goats shall go to the right and continue walking at will until ordered to change. AL the discretion of the show superintendent, a period of not more than five minutes may be allowed for the class of goats to enter the ring. At the end of this period, no other goats shall be permitted to enter.

The entire class shall be worked at least once around the ring at a walk and a trot, then reversed in a figure eight, and worked at the discretion of the judge in such a manner, as he deems advisable. Goats shall be lined up after preliminary workout. They shall then be individually asked to back up. Goats should back up in a straight line. The judge may ask an exhibitor to work his goat around the ring individually, or he might call the exhibitors into the center of the ring one at a time. The goats shall line up properly and remain in the center of the ring until ordered out.

WHAT THE JUDGES LOOK FOR

As an exhibitor you should be neat and well groomed, sit up straight with your elbows in at your sides and your hands in line with your knees. Make the goat look alert but quiet. What the judge looks for varies with individuals, but basically the judge will examine the harness for its cleanliness, suppleness and fit. For example, the breast collar, should be neither too tight nor so large that it hangs loose, but should lie flat. Vehicles are checked not only for their appearance but also for their size and suitability for the goat. Carts should be painted, clean, and in good repair. Two-wheeled and four-wheeled carts can show together. Your goat should be clean, well mannered, and appear to be healthy.

MANAGEMENT CALENDAR

MARCH-MAY Study material on dairy goats and determine what breed you will buy. Visit several
                          goat breeders and purchase your dairy kid. Be sure kid has been disbudded or
                          have it dehorned.

JUNE -      Vaccinate your new kid for tetanus, enterotoxaemia, and white muscle disease. Tattoo goat
                  and apply for registry if grade or purebred. Follow feeding recommendations and watch
                  kid's health closely.

JULY -     Offer grain and hay to kids. Clip hair all over and treat for lice. Trim feet for first time.
                Begin weaning kid (decrease milk slowly and increase grain and hay). Put on pasture,
                if possible. Begin teaching kid to lead, and practice posing animal for shows.

AUGUST - Treat kids for internal parasites. Use a good recommended wormer and follow
                  veterinarian's directions closely. Trim feet again. Work with kid daily for
                  showing. Decrease amount of grain and allow kid to have free choice hay.

JULY-             Clip hair all over kids' body three weeks before the first show (fair). Retrim feet.
SEPTEMBER     Work with kids for showing. (Go to the fair and try for a blue ribbon but have
                         fun in any case!)

SEPTEMBER - Watch for estrus (heat) cycles and breed does that weigh 8090 lbs. Record all breeding
NOVEMBER    and due ates. Trim feet; give does wormer (routine dosage). Decrease amount of grain
                        fed and feed mostly hay. Feed only hay if doe is not bred.

IMPORTANT TERMS TO KNOW

BACK STRAP - strap that goes around the goat at the chine.

BELLY BAND - girth of band going under the goat's belly,immediately behind the front legs.

BIT - part of a bridle that goes in the goat's mouth, made of smooth metal, 3 3 1/2 inches wide with one inch rings at the ends.

BLINDS - pads attached at an angle to the bridle to block rear vision.

BLIND BRIDLE - bridle with blinders attached. A blinder is a piece of leather attached to the cheek strap behind the eyes to hide rear vision.

BREAST COLLAR - wide strap held in place across the animals chest and used as major point for holding neck yoke in place.

BEECHING - rump straps, used as aid in backing up (optional).

BEECHING SEAT - strap attached to breaching that runs behind the goat.

BRIDLE - head part of a harness, used to hold back or control.

BROWBAND - band across goat's forehead above eyes that helps hold bridle in place.

CHECK REIN - an adjustable line from the bit to the top of the goats head and then to the saddle hook, used to keep the goat's head up.

CROWN - top of bridle over goat's head.

CROPPER - strap attached to the back of a harness and passing under the goat's tail.

DOE - female goat.

FILS - shafts that run from cart along both sides of animal to pull and hold the cart.

FOUR-IN-HAND - two teams hooked together, one pair in front of the other.

GIRTH - strap or band that keeps the harness in place. It goes under the goat's belly.

KID - a young goat.

LINES - straps from bit to driver used to guide and control goat reins.

LOIN STRAPS - strap runs over goat's back and attaches to breaching.

MARTINGALE - a strap of a harness that prevents the animal from rising on its hind legs or throwing its head back.

OPEN BRIDLE - bridle without blinds.

OVER CHECK - strap that runs from top of bridle to middle of saddle pad used to keep goat's head up.

PIPE-ENDS - end of file or shafts.

REINS - a long narrow strap or line fastened to a bridle or bit, by which to guide or control an animal.

SADDLE - part of a harness that holds the shafts, or which a check rein is attached.

SADDLE HOOK - hook to which over check is attached.

SHADOW ROLL - a large sheepskin roll worn just above the nose and below the eyes to cut off goat's view of the road. It help to prevent shying at shadows, pieces of paper or other objects.

SHAFT HOLDERS - strap on harness pad or saddle that holds the fils, often a loop

SHAFT LOOPS - same as shaft holders.

SNAFFLE BIT - metal bit built to move freely at the center.

SULKY - the two wheeled vehicle carrying the driver.

TANDEM - two goats hitched to a cart, one in front of the other.

TEAM - two goats hitched to a cart side by side

TRACES - either of the two straps, ropes, or chains by which an animal pulls a wagon, carriage, etc.

TRACE SPREADER - bar that goes between the traces on lead goat in a tandem hook up.

WETHER - a castrated buck.

Many suggestions and recommendations in this guideline are courtesy of the Dairy Goat Journal, Scottsdale, AZ. Special thanks to Charlotte Homeister Judith Warden, and Beverly and Mickeylouise Myer for pioneering Driving Goats as a Michigan 4-H Project and providing the practical information for this bulletin.