Climbs are listed in order of increasing distance from the car or trailhead. Mile 0.0 is the Airport intersection. |
Mile 12.60 left side of highway Road Runner II 50' This thin smear is located on the first road cut on the left, just before entering the canyon itself. Walk to the left and then slide down an ice bulge into a snowdrift to descend. |
Mile 12.62 left side of highway Chickenshit III This route is 400' above the highway on the left (west) side, across from the big rock cut. Walk down. Mile 12.78 right side of highway American Way I 75' This route is a slab of ice part way up a snow gully across the river from the road, about 200 yards upstream from the Alyeska Pipeline access bridge. Mile 12.81 left side of highway BeBop II 75' This route is 30 yards from the road, on the left, at the back of a small amphitheatre. It leads almost all the way up a cliff, impeded mildly by alders. |
Mile 12.85 left side of highway Kasey's Eleven II 75' This route is located on the left side of the highway, above the first rock cut. Trek up a bushy slope to the base of the climb. Rap from alders to descend. Mile 13.16 left side of the highway Mud Slide III 300' This climb is best seen looking up the left side canyon wall, in a narrow gully. Beware of a manky bolt at the top of the first pitch. Either rap from alders at the top and v-thread down first pitch or hike to the right (up the canyon) to the second gully encountered, then down. |
Mile 13.17 left side of the highway Chuckles II 150' Rap to descend. Mile 13.18 left side of the highway Synapse IV+ 120' This route is a thin pillar followed by a widening ice smear on the rock. Ascend a ramp up to a column of ice 20' high which blanks out on the rock. Make a move to the left onto rock, get on a little bit more ice, then climb a short steep corner and mantle into alders to a belay. Mile 13.22 right side of the highway House of Beaver II 150' This climb is across the river on the left side of an obvious snow gully, part way up. It is split near the top by a bulge of rock. In most conditions thin ice makes the very top section to the alders quite difficult, so most parties stop a little ways below on a ledge and chop a bollard for the rappel anchor. Mile 13.31 right side of the highway Yellow Snot III 300' This climb is located just to the right of Fang Gully and begins on a large rock bulge. It is an obvious yellow snotty looking climb, hence the name. This climb does not always form up. Rap from alders. Mile 13.32 right side of the highway Fang Gully II 300' This climb is located in a right-slanting gully across the river, just to the right of Hung Jurry and Whitewater. To descend either rap or hike to the left to the second gully encountered and sramble down. |
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