 |
|
It is important to acquire a cage, before bringing your rabbit home. He will need a safe place to rest, and get used to his new surroundings. He will also need a safe place to stay when you are not around to supervise his activities, and it will become home to him. For a Holland Lop, a 24in.X 24in. cage will be enough for him. He needs at least this much room. The cage should have a wire floor of 1 inch X 1/2inch wire. This is a small enough weave not to let his feet fall through, but big enough to allow any urine and droppings to fall through, so that his space remains clean. Rabbits are very clean animals by nature and do much better when they are allowed to live this way. Always, one bunny to a cage. This is important because they are very territorial by nature, and need their own space to feel secure. For an indoor cage, a tray is required under the wire to catch all of the droppings. This tray should be cleaned often to keep the ammonia fumes from becoming strong and threatening the quality of the air that he breathes. Kitty litter used in the tray, particularly in the hot spots(where he urinates regularly), will help keep the smell down until cleaning time. Just scoop out the small area where he goes regularly and replace the litter. If the wire itself becomes dirty, a wire brush can be used to keep it clean. Water is a very important part of a rabbit's diet. A heavy crock style bowl that can't be easily tipped works best. A rabbit will not eat at all if water is not available at all times. The water should be changed daily and the crock cleaned thoroughly at least once a week. A solution of chlorox and water works nicely to sterilize it. Rabbits, of the domestic type, should not be given fresh vegetables, such as lettuce, cabbage, etc. These are too high in the moisture content for their diet. They are not used to these foods and will develop diarrhea when fed them. This can kill a young rabbit in less than a day. Young bunnies should not be given any fresh vegetables at all. When a rabbit reaches maturity, around 6 months, they can have an occasional small piece of apple or carrot. Not the whole thing. A quality rabbit pellet should make up most of a rabbit's diet. This contains everything that they need to thrive. A Holland Lop should eat in the neighborhood of a half a cup of pellets each day. Until they are four months old they should be given all they can eat. After that time they should be measured so they do not over eat and become over weight. The more over weight a rabbit becomes, the shorter his life will be. Hay is a nice supplement to their diet and also adds fiber to their diet. A tablespoon or so of old fashioned dry oatmeal is also a welcome treat to any rabbit. |
|
If a rabbit is kept outside, and I don't recommend this[because no one wants to care for them outside in winter], it's water should be kept liquid. Ice to lick is a poor substitute for real water. I'm sure you know what happens when you touch your tongue to an ice cube. Rabbits can stand very cold temperatures if they are kept dry and out of drafts, but very little time is spent with an animal who is in an environment that we are not comfortable in. Frequent trips to replace frozen water in the winter should be taken into account when planning on an outside rabbit coupe. There is also safety from wind, rain, snow, sun, heat, predators and neighborhood domestic animals and kids to consider. Rabbits are at the bottom of the food chain and almost anything will scare them. They can be scared to death. Among the wild threats are raccoons, bears, weasels, and fox. The dogs and cats in the area are also a threat to them. In the summer they should not be allowed to over heat. They should never be left in the sun. They are more sensitive to heat than to cold temperatures. If they are in a hot place a 2 liter bottle of water frozen should be put in their cage to help keep them cool. Rabbits regulate their body temperature with their ears, so if they become over heated, it would help to mist their ears with cool water. Just like us, rabbits become bored sitting in their cages with nothing to do. An empty soda can with the tab removed, makes an excellent toy. Adding a pebble, and sealing it with tape, adds to the fun. Rabbits love to chew wood, so untreated wood makes a great chew toy. A golf ball is fun for some to push around the cage. My bucks are especially fond of empty 2 litter bottles to push around the cage. It's noisy but they love it. As I mentioned before, rabbits are very clean animals and will keep themselves clean. No bathing is necessary. Shots are not necessary either. It's better to keep them away from domestic animals that might have fleas as they may get them from other animals that roam. Anytime a rabbit is loose they should be watched carefully. They are chewers by nature and will go after those electrical wires before you know it. One way to rabbit proof a wire that you can't pick up, is to run it through metal or plastic tubing. A floor type pet cage is very useful. With this type of cage, the rabbit can be allowed to leave the cage on his own, and will return to relieve himself after he's used to doing it in his cage. It is best to leave a new rabbit alone for a day or so, after you bring him home. He's nervous, you're nervous. It's best to let him get used to the new surroundings. After that it helps earn his trust to pet him in his cage. Most rabbits enjoy this and will quickly come to the cage door for a scratch. After you notice him coming to you, it's time to take him out. The correct way to lift a rabbit is not by the skin on the back of his neck. Unlike dogs and cats, rabbits are not carried this way by their mothers. I'm not sure who started this, but it's not good for the rabbit, and makes him flinch every time you touch him. I'd say that it was uncomfortable for them for this reason. Run your left hand down their back while putting your right hand under their chest. Scoop them up, in a quick movement. and bring them to your chest. This gives them something to stand on, as they are very nervous when their legs are hanging. This is due to their fear of heights. This is how many people get scratched when handling rabbits. They scramble with their very strong hind legs when they become frightened, and usually get you somewhere. Rabbits have very sharp nails, since they burrow in the wild. They grow fairly fast and should be clipped from time to time, since the wire cage floor does not wear them down. For this reason, I always wear long sleeves when I handle my rabbits. They don't scratch intentionally, but it happens nevertheless. |
|
After your rabbit is used to his cage, and used to you, it might be time to let him out, if you are so inclined. This is when a floor cage is nice. Open the door and let him leave on his own. By this time, he has established a toilet in his cage. He'll go back to that place to urinate. He will probably return to his cage when he needs to urinate, if the area he has to run in isn't too large, (so he doesn't forget). Start small and work up. Returning the rabbit to the cage can be the tricky part. Slamming the door when he goes in the pee will soon teach him not to do that. They're not stupid, and they enjoy their freedom. The trick is to find something they like even more than freedom. By now ,you will have probably found a treat he really likes. Cheerios, oatmeal, dried bread, shredded wheat or even alfalfa hay. Put some in a dish in the cage, and their nose will lead them to it. Their sense of smell and hearing are both very sensitive. It is at this time, that you should shut the door. They will learn that there is a reward involved with returning to the cage. As I've mentioned before, rabbits are big into chewing. A frisky rabbit, trying to get your attention, will not hesitate to nibble your pant leg or socks to get your attention. Also, while holding your rabbit, some may try to nibble on your clothing. Some are more inclined to this than others. I've found it's an individual thing. Just be aware and put an old towel down on your best shirt if you happen to have one that likes it. Rabbits, since their nails are so sharp, do not maneuver well on slippery surfaces. Linoleum, tile and the likes are very hard for them to move around on and can cause them injury.
If a rabbit's droppings become very small, misshapen, or loose it's time to act. If they are loose, they've probably eaten something they shouldn't. The oatmeal and hay should help with this. Take away the pellets, and give them Gatorade to avoid dehydration. This happens very fast in rabbits. If the stools are very loose, and watery, there is a medication available at the larger pet supply chains called "DryTail" in the small animal section. It is primarily meant for hamsters and mice, but works very well on rabbits, too. It is a good idea to find and keep this product on hand, because once they get very loose stools, they can expire very quickly. Give the maximum dose, all the little dropper will hold, as soon as the loose stools are observed. Repeat if they continue. This should be done along with the electrolyte treatment for dehydration. I have thoroughly enjoyed all of my rabbits, and hope you get as much enjoyment from them as I have. |
 |
I highly recommend this book for anyone starting in rabbits. I have it and have used it as a reference for years.
Copyright©1998,1999,2000,2001: property of Iddy Biddy Bunny Barn & Jaylene's Designs.
|
![[Click Here]](loprabaspets.gif)
 |
