First of all, please don't keep your buck and doe together indefinitely. Does have been known to castrate bucks, after they get fed up with their advances. I have personally had a doe nip a buck's penis, when they were frolicking around my basement. Needless to say, I have never allowed contact between two rabbits, since then, unless it was in a closely supervised table breeding. Some people prefer cage breeding, and in this case you must take the doe to the buck's cage, because of extreme territorial behavior in does. Remove the doe as soon as you witness the buck falling off and squeaking in some cases. If you want to breed again, wait a while, and put her back in later. Don't let the buck continually chase the doe. It tires him needlessly.

Secondly. The gestation for rabbits is between 27-33 days, leaning more toward the 31 day period. Most of mine kindle on that day if they are not experiencing problems internally.

On the 27th or 28th day, put in your nest box. It should be big enough for her to get in and turn around comfortably. Not so big as to not keep the nest collected nicely. A wood box with holes drilled in the bottom works great, and stuff with fresh grass hay. This drains well if she should decide to pee in it. Some do.

While the doe is kindling, you may watch, but keep your distance and quietly go about your business. Don't make changes around the time she is due, and keep the traffic to the minimum in your rabbitry. Of course, we have several does due, and a hurricane is pending, so there are some things that are out of your control. Do your best.

After she kindles, sometime within the first 24 hours, give the doe a treat she loves, and remove the box for examination. Check for number born, dead kits, and blood and organic material at this time. Remove the bloody hay and dead kits, so as not to compromise the nesting material for the rest of the litter. Put all the kits in one place, in a hole in the back of the nestbox, under the bonnet and cover with the fur she should have pulled while nesting. You may have to collect some off the cage wire, but use care collecting anything in there now, especially if this is her first litter, and she is high-strung. Replace the box slowly, talking to her while you do. Always, wash before handling the kits and nesting material, because if you have the scent of other animals or bucks on your hands, the doe will invariably pee on the litter and nest to get rid of them. I always use antibacterial gel between litters, when checking boxes. It is a good practice to check the box daily, to make sure of no new problems, like wet hay or misplaced kits. If they fall out of the box, they can starve to death and die of exposure.

I personally don't remove the nest box at a set time. I judge this from litter to litter. If they seem to mature faster, and stay out of the box a lot, then I remove it earlier and replace with a slab of wood to sit on. I don't wean the kits. I let the does do this themselves. I leave them with their mom's until they're 10 weeks, unless there is fur chewing or fighting, which I find is rare. I never split them up before 8 weeks for any reason. Their eyes should open between 10-14 days. If, however, they are not open by 14 days, I remove the kits and use sterile solution you use for contact lenses, and moisten and open them carefully. If there is any sign of pus or infection...redness and such, I put Terrymicin eye ointment in them at this time. By this time they'll probably be coming out of the box. At the time that they do, I put a clean brick at the base of the box, so that they can get back in by themselves. Keep the nest clean. Put in clean hay when they start venturing out. They'll eat this and it will decrease the chance of infections.

By 10 weeks, the kits should be separated by gender. They aren't sexually mature at this time, but the time could come at any time after this age. Rabbits should NOT be allowed to breed, until they are at LEAST 6 months of age, in the dwarf breeds.