Ok then, It's been a while since the swap, I got this engine from a local junk yard, it had 120,000 miles and paid $350. If you're going to do the swap this is what you'll need:
- All the water hoses from the BP engine
- The throttle body, if you have a stick shift you'll need to get an engine from a stick shift Protege, if automatic then from an automatic Protege, the reason is because the TPS connector is different.
- The motor mount for the engine, if replacing the transmission too, then you'll need all the trans mounts too. I didn't changed my transmission, I'm still using the 323's 1.6L transmission. It fits perffectly, just bolt the
flywheel from the 1.6L engine onto the 1.8L BP DOHC engine. Then use the clucth and axles for the 323.
- You'll need to get the ECU from the Protege 90-94 but it has to be from the DOHC since it's different from the SOHC Protege. Also get the engine with the fuel injectors, and the two solenoids.
- Don't forget the exhaust manifold, you can use the 323s flex pipe with the new exhaust manifold, and ofcourse intake Manifold with the intake hose that goes from the intake manifold to the Air flow meter. It is different from the 323's. The lenght is the same but the shape is different. - You can use your starter motor, your Air Flow Meter (Protege AFM recommended) your transmission, your flywheel, your fuel pump.
- I replaced the alternator too, so I'm using the one from the Protege now, you can keep your coil since they are the same. I don't have a power steering so I don't know what to tell you about that, you can also get the
compressor for the air conditioning from the Protege, and you'll need the distributor too. the connections are the same, you'll need to add a wire from the ECU to the distributor connection in the first hole from left to right, It is called the G signal, the 323 don't have this extra wire but its connector has that extra hole for that wire, so no problem there.
Replace ALL THE WATER HOSES AND SEALS BEFORE INSTALLING THE ENGINE, save your self some trouble and do it right the first time, I had a hard time replacing the hoses from under the intake manifold after installing the engine.. I ended up taking the throttle body out to have access to the Fu..... hoses for the Idle control.
SUSPENSION
I also had to replace the front springs since the new engine is heavier the original springs weren't stiff enough, but I'm havig problems with the understeering now, so my advice to you, get after market suspension designed for the Protege or MX-3 and maybe 2 inch drop and some nice struts too. I replaced the struts with the Monroe SensaTrack..... sensatrack my ass !! The old Tokiko were better than these. But I guess I'll just have to live with them till I can afford something better. I'm still working on the under steering problem, I have to replace the rear springs too with the Protege ones, but I'm afraid it will raise the car in the back too much, since the springs from the Protege are stiffer in the rear than the 323s.
BRAKES
Another nice upgrade are the brakes. The Protege LX has bigger diameter front disk brakes than the 323s. In order to replace them you'll need the front nuckles, calippers, disk brakes, and 14inches wheels or higher. Straight swap here. Plug and play. And as for the rear same story, you'll need the cable for the parking brake, nuckles, calipers, HOSES too, they are different. I got the the callipers from the junk yard, for they are JUNK..... I need to buy new ones.... I heard of a nice swap to the master cylinder too, by replacing the 323s for a 929s ? The stoping power must be somethig serious ...... Will defenetely consider that. I got my disk brakes on Ebay, I'll include the web page of the company I got it from in the front of the page, they are just great. The pads seems to never wear out and it's been a while since I replaced them. I used to replace my brake pads very often, not any more. Really a nice upgrade.
You'll also need to run another wire for the VICS (Variable Intake Control System). The 323 doesn't have this system there for, you have to add an extra wire from the VICS solenoid to the ECU, otherwise you'll get a check engine light all the time, same for the "G" signal to the distributor. For this you'll have to check the repair manual and find the wireing diagram to see where these two wires will go connected to the ECU.
If you have any questions send me an e-mail and I'll be happy to help you. I want to see more 323 DOHC out there, that's how Mazda should've done it in the first place...
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