Hints Page 2(Cardboard Trains)
Note:The hints on this page have been supplied by other people!
Gregory Wissing, from Rotterdam in the
Netherlands, sent me the following pictures of his 1:45 On30
models:
(click on thumbnail to view larger image)
(for a brief history of the thumbnailed locos, click here)
Greg scratchbuilt these locos from CARDBOARD!
I asked Greg about his method, and he agreed to let me post it on my site:
1 The cardboard technique is even simpler than you think, no embossing or any other hard work is required. I call the method the CWE method, that stands for CARD-WHITE GLUE-ENAMEL, being the three essential ingredients.
2 CARDboard is easy to work on, and a fair degree of precision is easily attainable, once the art of cutting and MEASURING is mastered. I dare say that a well made cardboard model is as strong as a metal model, and it holds paint a lot better. Use 1 and 2 mm grey cardboard to erect the main inner structure, meaning the invisible box shape insides of a model. Use Kellogg Corn Flakes type cardboard (The official name for that is windowdressers board), or any other similar material, since such board is perfectly sealed, thus ready for painting. This board will be the visible surface of the model. Since there is a substantial underbody, warping is not a problem. Bristol card is very suitable for cabs, or places where the material model thickness of steelplate is required. For added strength, this material is to be prepared by scraping a thin layer of white glue on both sides BEFORE cutting. Warping is an issue here, but normally the warps can be dewarped by hand.
3 WHITE GLUE, use it freely, and richly, the spoils are easily wiped off with a wet finger later on, the glue is water soluble! Rivets are tiny droplets of white glue (use a needle).
4 And here comes the trick! ENAMEL. Before finishing your model it needs to be enameled, preferably glossy, because harder. The first 2 layers of (any)enamel are necessary for strength, and to allow you to sand the surfaces as flat as metal. After that is done, any paint can be used to finalise your model. If spraycan paint is desired, make sure a barrier layer (for instance wood primer) is sprayed on first, because your enamel will crack under the agressive spraycan solvents. I use enamels for the final layer too, the last layer is a thin layer of matte (Humbrol)varnish.
5 In case of making a locomotive in cardboard, my advice is to buy 2nd hand HO mechanisms at fairs, and christmas after sales. Study and measure the dimensions of the mechanism, but LEAVE IT AS IT IS! Make a tight fitting retainer plate of 2mm cardboard, and start from there. Very often parts of the mechanism are in the way, so try to find a prototype that can swallow up the whole mechanism. Do not attempt an American barframe steamloco for the first time!
6 Cram every hollow space with lead, scrap, or whatever heavy is around. For locos; the heavier the better
7 Add-ons like steps, tubing, rail sweepers, etc. are best made of thin sheet aluminum, and glued on with 2 component glue, do not use cyano flash glue, it is useless and unhealthy. For these items a little soldering can be necessary, use tinplate, not brass. Aluminum and tinplate can be cut with a good household pair of scissors!
8 Tools: 1 snap off cutter, 1 surgeons cutter with a set of pointed blades, and a STEEL ruler for the board, and a pair of good quality fine brushes for the final painting are all you need to get started.
9 A drawing of the intended item is very
useful, one can make that oneself, or pick some off the Net. Jim
Fainges has some fine drawings found here:
www.zelmeroz.com/canesig/qld/fainges.htm
Here is a photo of a loco in its raw cardboard state:
Many thanks to Greg for his fine construction method, I know the British modellers use cardboard frequently for structures and rolllingstock, it is very cheap, and I reckon would be far easier to work with than brass. In my opinion, the cardboard gives a better surface texture than plastic for representing cast iron and any slightly pitted ferrous metals.
If anybody builds a model using cardboard, feel
free to email me with your pics (but I'm on dial-up so no huge
files please!).
trainbrain @ optusnet. com . au
(Remove the spaces to send)
any comments?
Email me: trainbrain @ optusnet . com . au
(remove spaces from address before sending)
Mark Kendrick 22/09/04