| Annapurna circuit: Besi Sahar 820m - Manang 3540m April 13th - 19th On Saturday April 13th, Onno and I took a bus (very early in the morning) from Kathmandu to Dumre. In Dumre, we had to change busses to get to the beginning of the circuit (Besi Sahar). The Annapurna circuit goes (as the name does predict) around the Annapurna Massif in the Himalaya's. Getting the bus to Besi Sahar was a bit of a hassle (people pointing you in different directions, asking loads of money). In the end, Onno found us a local bus where we could sit on top (good thing it didn't rain!). Sitting on top of the bus, with the luggage was actually a great experience. I figured I'd be scared because of the Nepali driving skills on all the windy roads, but it was actually really fun! Great views, nice wind through your hair. Anyway, we ended up in Besi, had some lunch there and started walking. These were Onno's first steps hiking with a backpack, but he enjoyed it (of course) very much. We stayed overnight in a lovely lodge next to the river in Khudi. I was a bit scared of all the insects I saw/heard flying around (heroic as I am) . However, the lodge provided mosquito nets and I slept like a baby. Next day (Nepali New Year, it's 2059 there now) was the first big day of walking. It being later in the year and lower in altitude compared to the everest trek, it got really really hot! First bit was easy through a beautiful valley (already, mijke's body went: sweat sweat sweat) After this, the climbing started. As expected, Onno went a lot faster than I did. This as a result of many years of extensive 'sport billy' behavior. So when I reached the top with my, to some of you well known, red head, he was relaxing in the sun. No worries though, we can't all be the same right. After about 6 hrs of walking, we called it a day in a town called Kanigoan. Had a bit of a bad night because of diarrheoa (later on we learned to call this phenomenon a ' dodgy stomach' ). It wasn't all the time bad, so we did decide to walk again. The surroundings were beautiful. Stunning valley, with river down below. I feel lucky to see all this. Before our destination (Tal at 1710m) Onno and I lost eachother. I wasn't sure if he was above or below me and went back a bit to see. After a desperate run for the toilet, I really didn't know if he had already passed or not, but with the help of some nice English couple it turned out he was ahead. In Tal, we stayed in a lodge where the people were very friendly, but didn't understand much english, so we had to make our own bill, add it up. Tell them the price and then give the money. Of course we didn't take advantage of this situation. Why cheat these people out of the little money they have? Overall, there's hardly anybody on the trail. No tourists, hardly any porters. Real different from the everest trek. Next two days, there was more climbing through beautiful forests and after another dodgy stomach day, I decided to take some medication (that you can buy for virtually nothing here) and I felt fine. When we arrived in the town of Dhukure Pokhari, Onno had a big scare. He felt something in his underwear and went to check. Suddenly, while I was brushing my teeth, I heard a scream from the toilet. A tick had dug his head in Onno's skin about 3 cm from his private parts! So Nurse Mijke had to do the honors and get the thing out. It was a f**** ing huge one too. Fortunately O had a tick remover and after lots of twisting and turning I got it out. Good thing I had had one once and had observed Retze very well when he removed it. Must have been a funny sight: me on my knees before Onno with my mouth full of toothpaste, he with his pants down shining a torch down. Hmmmm, what must those nepali's have thought. The toilets on this trek are mostly indoor. The one in Dukhure Pokhari however was outdoor and had some sort of wooden slide on which you could drop everything and then let it slide down. Interesting! By the way, on the everest trek, it was the yaks you had to watch out for. Well, on this trek, it's definately the donkeys. We met this guy on the second day, who had been kicked in the knee by a donkey and was stuck in the same little village for three days waiting for the swelling to go down so he could somehow walk back to Besi Sahar. Scary! Last day to Manang was pretty flat and easy to walk. It's not as hot anymore so I was really happy. The views are still amazing and the snow capped mountains rise up above us. There were many many fantastic rock walls. Perfect for climbing (but somehow nobody climbs them). In Manang (3540m) we have our first acclimatisation day. When we arrive there, there's some more luxury again and we take long hot showers and watch a (very bad!) movie called Into Thin Air (after a book by John Krakauer). After this Onno has a headache and goes to bed. I enjoy a lovely tomato cheese pizza by myself. During the night and the next morning, I get some symptoms that could point to altitude sickness. Headache during the night and nausea after breakfast (just think I ate too much actually). After lying down for a while, I felt good again. Manang is a great village. Many narrow streets and clay houses with flat roofs. There aren't that many authentic villages in the everest region. Because of the ' walk high, sleep low' idea (to prevent altitude sickeness) we walked up to the 100 rupees monk (at 3900 m) He would bless you for the crossing of Thorung La pass (only if you give him 100 rupees). We didn't want to pay that, so we just walked up. He didn't understand it, and even sent out his wife to ask if we really really really didn't want the blessing. In Manang we met up with Tamara and Marcel. Onno had met them already in the bus from India. Back to Nepal Home Page Next part of Circuit |