UPDATED! August 2003
ROUTES RECENT ACTIVITY WHAT'S NEW BOLTS STARS
This site contains information on new routes which have been put up at
Moonarie, or other Flinders Ranges cliffs. The routes on this site have
been put up since the publication of the 2000 Moonarie guide book, and hence
this basically serves as a Moonarie update for those who are interested.
This update is maintained by James Falconer, and any editorial can be
attributed to me unless otherwise noted. If you don't like it, feel free
to hassle me on the email address below.
There is also information for Rawnsley Bluff, including Moonlight Buttress.
Mail any contributions to james.falconer@student.adelaide.edu.au
New route descriptions should be sent to robmbaker@another.com
August 5 2003 – James Falconer
The winter has seen continued activity. Dave Bowen and Rob Baker have both been at it, producing some nice new lines. In a fast return after sustaining serious injuries at Arapiles over summer Paul Badenoch produced No Missing Link on the Red Tier. Of particular note is Steve Pollard’s ascent of the open project on the Great Wall. Steve spent a number of weekends on the route, and was ultimately successful in mid June. The completion of the route, known as Drowning Direct, marks the end of a long history of attempts started 15 years ago. It also gives Moonarie its first 29, the first grade increase for fifteen years. Nice work Steve.
June 5 2003 - Rob Baker
Over the last year or so there has been lot of activity at Moonarie. Many new routes and repeats of existing hard routes have been done. A lot of work has also been done with the replacement of old carrot bolts with good quality stainless expansion bolts. None of the carrots that have been removed would be considered safe by anyone’s standards. Many of the old rap stations for routes have been replaced and a few new ones have been added. This enables rapping after the high quality first or second pitches without having to climb all the mossy ordinary pitches above and reduces wear and tear on the descent gullies.
Dave Bowen and Johnny Marshall have been extremely busy. Over about 4 weekends in 2002, they bolted and climbed a new 3-pitch mega-route on Flying Buttress, Swooping Pterodactyls 22. The first pitch especially is excellent climbing just left of the arete of These Eagles and has had many repeats.
Mike Broadbent and Tony Barker have also been active with a couple of cunning new routes in the ramparts and near the little great wall. Rob Baker, James Falconer and crew have added some cool routes to the checkers wall area, close to top camp and in the ramparts in the Sweeping Statement area.
Steve Pollard cleaned up an old Stuart Williams project on Guru Wall to produce Meditations 27, an awesome line, which follows the diagonal rib on the wall. Also impressive is his recent ascent of the Womb Waltz 28 which had gone unrepeated for over ten years.
Easter 2003 saw a flurry of activity in the lower southern descent gully by Dave Bowen and Company with about 5 new routes. Most of the old carrot bolts on the great wall were replaced in a mammoth effort by Colin Ridley with his new drill.
This is a list of the routes added recently.
5 August 2003
Drowning Direct (Great Wall)
Caught Short (Flying Buttress)
Moon Unit (Callitris Corner)
Two Up (Callitris Corner)
Bullet Proof (Northern Group)
30 June 2003
No Missing Link (Red Tier)
The Passenger (Checkers Wall)
2 June 2003
Everything on Low Dive Gully
A Test for Echo (Checkers Wall)
Moonarie on a Shoestring (Checkers Wall)
Waxen Wings (Flying Buttress)
Snaffled (Jaffle Wall)
Dwarfism (Ramparts)
Know Your Enemy (Ramparts)
Jezeblel Spirit (Ramparts)
Iguana Theory (Ramparts)
Shattered (Great Wall Area)
Recently a number of Moonarie regulars have begun the process of replacing
the old (and generally dodgy) carrot bolts on routes, and the numerous dodgy
abseil stations at Moonarie. The aim of this is not only to make the
cliff safer for all who climb there, but also to preserve access the cliff
which would likely be affected by accidents.
Following is a list of what has been replaced at Moonarie.
It must be stressed that anyone who uses any fixed gear at moonarie does so
entirely at their own risk. Although every effort has been made in the
placing of gear to ensure that it is of the highest standard, no responsibility
is taken for injuries sustained as a result of relying on fixed gear, whether
caused negligently or otherwise, by the publishers of this site, or the people
who placed the gear.
Melodrama / You Bet (50m)
Northern Group – 50m – 16 with a Bullet etc.
Moondance Wall – 50m – Be Stiff etc.
Southern Crags - 25m - Madame Butterfly, Scarlet Pimpernel, Crack Up, Crack Up Arete, Ultra Mega Mega Man Block.
Top of Thor pitch 1 - 25m - Thor Pitch 1, Marathon Runner, Sticky Side Up, A Test For Echo, Thor Variant.
Top of first pitch of Pine Crack - 30m - Pine Crack, Moonarie on a Shoestring.
Top of Yak Trak - The chains here had been removed, and have now been replaced with brackets (and soon hopefully mailons)
Lost in Space wall - 40m - The Seduction, Beefcake, Vulcan, Lost In Space,
Quicksilver, Mercury Rising, Gold Plated Crab.
Flying Buttress - 25m - Vortex Pitch 1, Buckets of Jism.
Alien Country (Jaffle Wall) - 25m - Captain Good Vibes, CGV Direct, Alien
Cowboy.
Remnant - 25m - Whirly Bird, Remnant, Green Blooded Rastafarian.
Second pitch of Sweeping Statement - 50m, or 2 x 25m.
Know Your Enemy (see new routes) - 50m - Balancing Bunnies??
Toblerone - 40m
Endless Love - 50m - Ape and Away, Endless Love, Time Out.
Descent is possible from the top of the Ramparts by 2 raps down the Great
Chimney. Look for two cairns at the top of the cliff, and then another
15m south, at the beginning of the descent to the chains. The second rap
is from the (updated) chains above Goblin Mischef. (2 x 50m)
It has often been commented that the star rating system at Moonarie does not
accurately reflect the quality of many of the climbs. Some climbs recieve
stars more for historical reasons than quality, and others get less attention
than they deserve. This list is based only on the opinion of a few
climbers, but will hopefully generate discussion and some consensus. If
you have any comments upon these routes or others, I'd love to hear them.
The staring of new routes is often problematical as it is only ever based on
then opinion of one climber. Some refuse to give their routes stars at
all, others give them away as if they're going out of fashion. New routes
on this list have been repeated by someone, and this is their opinion.
As with most guides, one star means a route is worth doing, two means its
great, do this route soon, three means its mega classic, amazing, fantastic,
what are you doing?? get in the car and get up there and do it now!!!
**This is still on the way.**
Dave's Gym Lower Tiers Checker's Wall Low Dive Gully RampartsCallitris Corner Great Wall Area Northern Group Other
Check out the PHOTO with all these routes marked. Thanks Dave.
SILHOUETTE ARETE 30m 19
(1)10m 15 Start up Moriarty's Revenge. Move left onto slab and belay at
horizontals and crack.
(2) 19 20m Climb crack to roof, traverse left to cave then up arete (1
bolt) and finger crack to finish.
Dave Bowen, Kym Smith 26/9/2001
MADAME BUTTERFLY 20m 18
Nice moves up flakes and cracks (description in back of guidebook)
Dave Bowen
Dave has since added a belay bolt at the top ot this pitch, which also serves Madam Lash.
THE SCARLET PIMPERNELL 20m 21
Follow the line of 3 bolts between Madam Butterfly and Crack Up. Move up and
right to first bolt, then wander leftwards up the wall trying not to stray into
Crack Up.
Dave Bowen, Andrew Temple, John Marshall. 14/4/2001
CRACK UP ARETE 20m 16
The arête right of crack up- 2 bolts. Start up Crack Up and move out to arête
and first bolt. Continue up arête.
Dave Bowen, Kym Smith, 13/4/2001
TOO HARD TO GET TO 25m 14
Fun, the black slab right of Lignase. Approach via Crack Up's ledge or the
first pitch of Lignase. Starts on ledge with single bolt belay. Up Slab past 2
bolts and flakes to ledge and final headwall.
Matt Heald, Dave Bowen, Kym Smith 18/9/2001
30 ODD FOOT OF GRUNT 10m 19
Behind the Ultra Mega Mega block is short wall split by a ledge at 1/3 height.
Climb crack in middle of wall.
David Bowen, John Marshall, Kym Smith 13/4/2001
PAPILLION 20m 20
Black arête at far right hand end of ledge above the first pitch of crack up.
Climb up corner then left at horizontal. Finish up arête. 2 bolts and rap
chains.
Dave Bowen and Kym Smith 10/4/2001
LAY BACK AND THINK OF FRANK 15m 19
The obvious (wide) crack splitting the upper overhanging wall between Mutation
and BlueFinger. Access by abseiling down Mutation to foot wide ledge and sidle
across to belay at base of crack.
Steve Kelly, Rob Baker and Frank 1/10/2001
Ultra Mega Mega Block
This is the large block above the routes already described. Climb one
of those routes to access the following ones.
Sounds like this is the place to be! According to the first ascentionists, all
the routes on this block are two or three stars!
There is now a abseil anchor above this block.
MADAM LASH 20m 23/24 **
A great effort by Dave. Starts from ledge above Madam Butterfly (Bolt and cam
belay). Crank through rooflet past 1st bolt (Stick clipped on first
ascent), then up wall past 2 more bolts and a thread (long sling) up higher.
Dave Bowen 18/9/2001
Dave led this with only the original two bolts, but has since added a third to protect a long runout. He also added a belay bolt at the ledge above Madam Butterfly, which also serves this route.
BLOOD SPORT 20m 24/25 **
Heinous crux! Prominent arête on block above Crack Up. Up arete past 3 bolts
then finish straight up wall.
Rob Baker, James Foley 1/7/2001
Ultra Mega Mega Man 20m 24 ***
Deceptively steep. Awesome moves on awesome holds. Climb the black streak on
the overhanging face of the block above Crack Up. 3 bolts.
Rob Baker, James Foley, Vaughan Thomas 1/7/2001
Frannies point
Another One Bites the Dust 25m 15
Start on wall right of Earthbound (franny's point). Hand traverse right to
arete then along ledge for 5m. Up left facing corner to the top.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker, John Marshall 17/4/2001
Unnamed 16
Catcher wall, right hand end. Proceed up the slab just left of the corner.
John Marshall, Jim Smith 16/4/2001
Los viejos 22 *
wall facing south next to catcher wall. climb to the bolt and pull through the
underclings climb the left tending crack to the top
John Marshall, Tony Barker and Mick ?17/4/2001
Red Tier
No Missing Links 30m 16
Vague line 8m R of Saltbush Bill's cairn. Up to
the shallow alcove at 3m. Exit through the R end of the rooflet, a few
steepish metres, then continue more easily. Take a selection of
small/medium cams for the numerous horizontals.
Paul Badenoch 8/6/03
BETTER OUT THAN IN 35m 18 *
Interesting climbing. Start as for Free For All and continue up that route for
5 m. Move up and left to bolt and continue up arete past 3 more bolts. Continue
up to ledge or move up and right to the Mr Ordinary anchors.
Rob Baker, Steve Kelly. 1/10/2001
A TEST FOR ECHO 25m 17
Right side of arete left of Thor Variant. Start of large block, up crack
and left over roof. continue up wall right of arete, and then on to arete
for final few metres.
Colin Ridley, James Falconer, Easter 2003.
MOONARIE ON A SHOESTRING 30m 24
After the initial failed bolting attempt, a large rock mysteriously appeared hanging by a shoelace from the stuffed up bolt. Has some reachy sections.
The line of six bolts between Pine Crack and Family Holiday. Climb a couple of metres up Family Holiday, and then up to first bolt. Finish up crack on left side of scoop leading to the ledge on Pine Crack.
James Falconer, Rob Baker. April 2003.
This route can also be done by continuing further up Family Holiday, and joining the route at the second bolt. This avoids the first crux.
INFIDELITY 30m 20
Climbs a direct line up the right side of checkers wall, linking through two old routes down low, the second half of the route then ascends the orange wall between Angels with Dirty Faces and Trojan. Start up Cross Country Crack (Checkers wall) until at the bottom of the corner. Step right past a bolt and then up to join Angels in the groove. Once on the ledge, the upper wall is accessed by a move diagonally left up Angels, and then climbed past two bolts. Traverse off right before roof, and belay as for Trojan. Either continue up Trojan or climb across to the anchor above Wild Child.
James Falconer, Rob Baker. April 2002
THE PASSENGER 40m 25 **
The cool, slopey, bulgy thing between Pine Crack and Desolation Angels. (1) 16
15m as for pitch 1 of Pine Crack but then move out right to belay anchors on
ledge.
(2) 25 25m Cant miss it. Up past 7 bolts and the odd bit of natural protection
to double bolt belay.
Rob Baker, Seth Debolt, James Falconer, June 2003
HYPERDRIVE 30m 22
Start just right of Trojan up the crack. Clip the 1st bolt of Wild Child and move leftwards and up through roof. Hard move past bolt, then straight up and finish as for the last moves on Wild Child. DBB
Rob Baker, Luke Geelen, June 2002
The following routes are located on the recessed orange wall left of Seduction and The Black Hole of Calcutta.
LAYING CABLES 50m 20
(1) 17 25m The crack splitting the black slab between Transferase and Black Hole of Calcutta. Start just left ofTBHOC and at 2 metres move left to crack then up to ledge. Continue up corner to belay on ledge below 1st bolt. (2) 20m 20 Straight up past 3 bolts and finish up scoop (bring sling for horn) moving left to chain/ bollard belay. 50m rap to ground.
Rob Baker, Luke Geelen, June 2002
SINKING BATTLESHIPS 50m 20
(1) Same as for Laying Cables. (2) Start about 3 m right of the 2nd pitch of Laying Cables. Up though bulges and past bolt to ledge. Finish up crack to bollard/ chain belay.
Rob Baker, Luke Geelen, June 2002
BEEFCAKE 50 m 23 **
Steep and pumpy. The arête left of Lost in space. (1) 50 m 23 Start as for
Vulcan but instead of traversing left under the roofs, go straight through
roof and out to arête past 2 bolts. Continue up the right side of arête. (2)
Climb up to ledges under Full Torque and escape off right or traverse over
to Goldinger chains and abseil off.
Rob Baker, Geordie Webb, Jamie Anderson. 8/7/2001
GOLD PLATED CRAB 30m 15
(1) Up Goldfinger to second bolt, traverse left & up crossing Asimov ,
quicksilver etc to belay in alcove as for Vulcan. (2) Traverse back to
Goldfinger's chains.
David Bowen, John Marshall 8/6/2002
PULL MY FINGER 10m 17
The arête left of The Purple Helmet. Sparsely protected. Climb on the right
side of the arête thus avoiding the ordinary looking chimney
Rob Baker, Vaughan Thomas, May 2001
THE PURPLE HELMET 10m 16 **
Perfect rock. Situated on the black wall left of Kiss my Aura Dora and
opposite Asimov. Start on spacious ledge behind Asimov. Up corner in middle
of face. A cam at 3m is the only worthwhile gear.
Rob Baker, Vaughan Thomas, May 2001
REGICIDE 33m 19/20
(1) 18m 19 As for pitch 1 of the Prince. (2) Move left off ledge onto ramp and up steep crack. Move left over bulge to horizontal breaks and up final steep crack.
Dave Bowen and Alex Mew 26/4/2002
CAMILLA PARKER BOWLES 33m 15
'Beside the Prince but ignored by everyone for years'
(1) 18m 15 Up Prince for the first 2 metres, then move right and up the wall past a bolt and pockets to flake near arête. Continue up arête on big horizontals. (2) 15m 13 As for pitch 2 of the Prince
Alexander Mew and Dave Bowen 26/4/2002
50 m above the rainwater tank just off the track is a short wall with some bolts. Routes described L-R.
GRAHAM'S ROUTE 13m 18
Start in crack, up and left to 1st bolt, straight up passing another bolt on small holds. Alexander Mew, Dave Bowen 6/5/03.
MUM'S THE WORD 15m 18
Up small crack and flake to a stance under the roof, crank through roof on pocket and up brushed head wall. Dave Bowen,
Anna Brooks and John Marshall 18/4/03.
LILLIPUTIAN JOURNET 15m 19
Fingery moves past bolt, through roof at little corner and up headwall on brushed line. Dave Bowen, Kym Smith 14/4/03.
PICK POCKET 15 m 14
Arete right of Lilliputian Journey. Up arete on pockets to scoop and more pockets, crank on through to final moves. Take your number 4 Camelot! Anna Brooks, Alexander Mew and Duncan Love 20/4/03.
CI 14 m 12 (RBKA)
Starts 3m R of chimney below 2nd of two cracks, grasp the ears and climb to stance at 3m, find the easiest way up on mossy arete between cracks. Duncan Love, Mulvenny 19/4/03.
THE PUGILIST 10m 19
Immediately right of CI is a short wall with 3 horizontals, punch your way straight up the middle of the wall on these. Dave Bowen, Rod Mulvenny 20/4/03.
SHE SMELLS LIKE COCONUTS 60m 18
Start 5m left of Chicken Crimpy at the base of right hand water mark.
1) 20m 18 Up narrow water mark (past bolt at 4m) then nice moves lead to
belay cave.
2) 20m 17 Straight up through weakness (past left hand roof) , veering left to
2nd roof corner then left around on to sloping ‘nose’. Take a deep breath, move
up through small roof into bottomless corner, then right onto arete. Up and
veer right through orange rock to large roof, then hand traverse right and up
to substantial cave/ledge.
3) 20m 14 Step left and climb slab to notch in summit boulders. (FFA- November!
2000 Jamie Anderson, Geordie Webb alt.)
I think this is probably pretty hard for 18. First pitch is
committing. Route finding can be a bit dificult on the second pitch as
Pat and I found. There is some really sandy nasty stuff a bit to the
right, so if you get in to that (as we did) you're off route. The correct
line is all good rock.
BIRD OF PREY 25m 21*
The wall perpendicular to the But Holland face on Flying Buttress. Start on
ledge next to the tree. Start up the initial crack and then head straight up
the wall past 3 bolts to finish at the Vortex belay.
Rob Baker, Vaughan Thomas, Easter 2001
A number of people who've done this recently have ended up going right in to the crack at the top. Don't do this. Go straight up the wall.
The following two climbs are on the steep buttress down and left of flying buttress with small roof near the bottom.
LOADED BOWEL 25m 23 **
The left line on the buttress left of the Flying Buttress.Start about 15 left
of Flying Buttress. Up past 2 bolts then right to break (2 camalot) and through
roof and corner to finish up slab.6 bolts and rap chains (40m to ground).
Rob Baker, Steve Pollard October 2002-10-08
GAMBLER 17 25
The face buttress left of Flying Buttress. Scramble up to crack 2m left of
Flying buttress. Up crack to ledge. Then step right around small roof and up
onto face, keeping just left of the arête. Skirt around base of the pillar to
large ledge below But Holland is a Country wall. DBB/Rap chains (40m to
ground).
Rob Baker, Vaughan Thomas October 2002
The next two climbs start on a ledge as for pitch 2 of "BirdBrain".
FROZEN IN TIME 25m21. up slab left of "birdbrain's" corner to
overlap , traverse right (bolt) up small corner to a belay on ledge .escape to
chains on arête.
David Bowen and John Marshall 11/8/2002
SWOOPING PTERODACTYLS 75m 22 **
Start's right of "birdbrain's" corner. (1) straight up passing 4
bolts through bulges to a stance under roof , left through roof crack and up to
dbb (chains).(2) 30m 20 ,through roof past 2 bolt's then head for big ramp past
3 more bolts ,belay at top of ramp on bollard. (3) 20m 20 Up steep scoops past
2 bolts, onto ledge up ramp and headwall various sling threads, DBB on ledge.
(50m rap to chains on pitch 1 possible)
David Bowen, John Marshall 14/7/2002 (both led) (2) & (3) 10/8/2002.
Stars are for the first pitch. This has been confirmed by a number of people.
CAUGHT
SHORT 60m 17 *
The crack and face between These Eagles and Icarus. (1) 17 40m Start as for These Eagles and Icarus and once over initial roof had straight up to scoopy crack and horizontals to spacious ledge. (2) 15 20m Move up and right around right end of roof and straight up the wall above to top. Scramble off.
Rob Baker, Dave Cebel, July 2003.
WAXEN WINGS 25 m 16
A variant second pitch to Icarus. Climb the crack between Icarus and Ultion
till it expires, straight up through bulge and up to airy moves through roof at
shallow corner, straight up wall to ledge.
Dave Bowen, John Marshall 23/4/03.
MICRO ADVENTURE 22m 19*
A nice wall of solid grampians like rock. Start 15 m right of Ultion, up on a
ledge just right of Cut Lunch. (the tree in the latter's description has since
fallen over and died.) climb the groove as for Ciao Professore and step left
onto the face and up right. Move back left to a small ledge at horizontal
break. Up left side of face past a bolt, then back right to climb
chimney/pillar.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker 20/10/01
CIAO PROFESSORE 25m 17
Start 15m right of Ultion. Up groove to base of wall and right onto detached
flake. Up to incipient groove crack whickhleads to the ramp below the
triangular roof. Up crack to left for 5m , then traverse right to small roof.
Step up right to arete.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker June 2001
Jaffle Wall
SCOOP THE POOL 35m 19
Nice climbing on the major arete right of Ultion, joining Generosity. Start at
the left end of Jaffle Wall. Start up toxic shock, the crack through the right
side of the scoop. Move left across the scoop with 2 bolts and around onto the
very base of the arete with instant exposure, passing a third bolt.. Up the
arete, joining Generosity at half height. Up to a DBB and abseil.
Tony Barker and Mike Broadbent 16/4/2001
GENEROSITY (already written up)
A really good climb, but better done by starting up Hold Tight (ie. Up Ultion
briefly then right into niche and right again to arete). Though it is 55m it
can be climbed as one pitch with simul-climbing of the first and last 5m, both
of which are easy.
The Lob Off Boys (Hally and Daishy)
NIGHT OF 1000 JAFFLES 30m 18
Start as for Night of the Long Jaffles, about 8m right of Toxic Shock. Climb up
and left onto the line, and up into a pod shaped scoop (this is common to NOTLF
and Toxic Shock). Exit this straight up and move leftwards under the overlap
and onto the steep slab above. Move up and left to Generosity's belay. Abseil
off.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker 16/4/2001
SNAFFLED 45m 17
(1) 35m 17. The centre of the upper section of the wall. Start from top of
Alien Country or Goodvibes Direct. Climb easy ledges and walls to below roof.
Up diagonal crack right through roof and on to ledge. (2) 10m 12.Traverse right
to corner and up to top.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker Easter 2003.
GREEN BLOODED RASTAFARIAN 25m 17
Start as for Orion but traverse right 3m before Whirlybird. Traverse to
arete and up past BR to alcove. Shane Mitchell, Belinda Coad, Easter
2001.
Shane reckons this is worth a star. Pat, Rob and Vaun repeated it and say
its 16.
SHADOWBOXING Shane has freed Shadowtime at grade 18.
Shane also replaced the slings in the Remnant belay alcove with bolts and chains. Nice one.
DWARFISM 19 40m **
The obvious arête left of Spartacus. From the first belay ledge of Spartacus,
up the left wall for a few metres then move left to the arête. Continue up
arête to big ledge. For descent, traverse over to rap chains on Sweeping
Statement.
Rob Baker, James Falconer May 2003
There are now chains on ledge at the top of this route, above a project on left
arete.
KNOW YOUR ENEMY 50m 25 **
Climbs the buttress just left of Duke. (1) 30m 21 Start as for Duke. Move left
at roof to bolt then up past another bolt and up to ledge to double bolt belay.
(2) 20m 25 Up past 6 bolts to rap chains (50m rap to ground).
Rob Baker, Luke Geelen, Vaughan Thomas May 2003
JEZEBEL SPIRIT 20 m 20
Arete R of Pitch 2 of Strangers In A Strange Land. Climb either this or
Falling Monkeys to SSL's belay ledge. Up ramp past 2 bolts, move around arete
past 3 more bolts and up to big ledge DBB. 45 m rappel to ground. Dave Bowen,
Kym Smith 13/4/03.
IGUANA THREORY 35 m 23
Climbs the wall between Toblerone and Mystery Elephant Ride. Climbs corner for
2m's step left at two distinctive grass tufts, up cracks onto wall proper, thin
climbing past 3 bolts and up crack to the huge flake (bolt) continue up wall
passing 2 more bolts, rejoin Toblorone at its 2nd last bolt, up to
chains. 40 m rappel. Dave Bowen 21/4/03.
The next route goes up the middle of the imposing overhanging orange Guru Wall, near the northern end of the Ramparts.It was formerly an incomplete Stuart Williams Project, but a good effort by Steve has now produced . . .
MEDITATIONS 27 ***
Climbs the amazing diagonal rib on Guru Wall. Start as for Buzzard Arete. Up
past the first 3 bolts on that route then up and right along the rib past Fists
and Toys to finish at the hanging belay on Buzzard arête (numerous bolts).
Steve Pollard, October 2002.
MOON UNIT 40m 17
The line just right of Moondance. Start 2m right of Moondance and continue up wall with thin protection until a few metres below roof. Continue up Vibrator or traverse left to Moondance wall chains above Be Stiff.
Rob Baker, Seth Debolt July 2003
RIPL 60m 16
(1) 16 30m As for Rush pitch 1. (2) Move left to the end of ledge and onto slab. Straight up middle of slab thru acres of moss avoiding Earthspan and other Rush variants.
Dave Bowen and John Marshall 30/3/2002
With variant Dave Bowen and Kym Smith 29/9/2001
TWO UP 25m 19
Start as for You Bet. Traverse right to a red scoop. Straight up this past a bolt to top.
Dave Bowen, John Marshall 12/7/2003
EAT OR DIE 45m 22*
Follow flake between Downwind of Angles and Languish in Anguish for 15m (four bolts), before veering left and finishing as for Downwind.
Rob Baker and James Falconer, August 2002.
DROWNING DIRECT 25m 29 **
Starting part way up block, follow bolts up and left to belay as for Against the Wind. (see Guide Book)
Steve Pollard July 2003
SHATTERED 35m 17 *
The black wall right of Finale. Start up Finale's chimney to tree. Step right onto wall and climb the centre, with move right to arete at mid height for gear. Take thin tape for small bollard runner on upper section. Belay at large sloping ledge. Move across right to Body Free Fall's belay bolts and abseil off. A desperate direct start would be possible.
Mike Broadbent, Tony Barker Easter 2003.
SUPER COOLER 42m 19
Up 16 With a Bullet till level with base of corner. Step left onto arête and climb up steep juggy terrain to a ledge below a large scoop (bolt here). Balance up scoop to another steepening then over small roof and the final wall.
Dave Bowen and Alex Mew 26/4/2002
BULLET PROOF 42m 21
Starts on pocketed wall left of Fatal Flame. Boulder up to 1st bol, up and right passing 3 bolts and natural gear. Continue up to join 16 With A Bullet at its belay. Straight up into V-groove past 2 bolts. Exit left and finish up 16 WAB's final wall crack to a DBB. Dave Bowen, Alex Mew 10/7/2003
WITYATI 16m 14
Crack between Capricious Folly and Treebeard, beginning at 5m (abseil in).
Finish up slot. Needs a start. In fact, if you can
boulder the start, continue up one of the impressive walls either side of the
crack! Paul Badenoch 10/6/01
AKURRA 18m 18
Begins among dead trees 5m R of Great Rip Roaring Climb. A fun start (have a
#00 cam ready), then up L-bearing line to the ledge. Cross GRRC and climb small
LH corner. Paul Badenoch 2/9/01
WALPINA 19m 17
Line beginning 4m R of Akurra and 4m L of Unbridled Passion. When the rock
deteriorates, step R to join UP and thus to the
ramp. Move 1m R and finish up the wall (juggy but runout near the top). Take a
#00 cam. Paul Badenoch 2/9/01
