Turn signal modifications
I have also modified my stock turn signals, well sort of.  I have a friend that does some painting work and he has developed a way to paint the stock turn signals and make them look like that are smoked or tinted, very cool.  You can see the pictures here 2000 CBR929RR Picture page.  I have posted his website on the picture page so if you want your turn signals smoked you can contact him.

N.W.S carbon fiber rear wheel hugger
Installed an N.W.S carbon fiber rear wheel hugger.  I like the look and function of this hugger.  I ordered it from N.W.S and it took about 4 weeks to arrive in the USA, not to bad since the bike is still a new year model.  The installation was very easy and you can see pictures here 2000 CBR929RR Picture page.  The total cost of the hugger was 136.51 British pounds, about $200.00.   If you would like to learn more about the hugger here is a link to N.W.S.

Lockhart-Phillips V2 (double bubble) windscreen
A new windscreen was in order since I really did not like the stock one, it really did not look that good and was starting to show small scratches.  For alittle more wind protection I went for the Lockhart-Phillips V2 (double bubble) light smoke.  The dark smoke was just to dark to the white and red for my taste.  The new windscreen did improve the wind protection and feels nice out on the highway.   The install was very easy and you can see the pictures here 2000 CBR929RR Picture page.

K&N air filter
The K&N air filter was installed since the bike was due for a new one.  I really wanted to get the bike dynoed before I installed the K&N filter but was not able to, not enough time and the local shop that has the dyno was always busy.  The installation was very easy but you will want to make sure you have had the fuel line recall done.  I have had the recall done and you are able to move the tank up enough to allow room for removing the airbox lid.  My riding friend also has a 929RR but did not have the fuel line recall done when we installed his K&N air filter and there is not much room to get the tank up out of the way since the fuel line is short.  Riding the bike it is really hard to tell if you get more power but I wanted the filter since I never have to buy another now, just clean, oil and reinstall.   The only thing I really did not like much was the fact the the filter area on the new K&N is actually smaller than the stock filter area.   You can see the picture of this on the 2000 CBR929RR Picture page.

Front and rear wheel powder coating
I am sure if you own a 929RR/Fireblade you have noticed that all of them have the same color wheels.  I really hated the graphite/gray color of my wheels so I finally decide to make a change.  I removed both wheels and then had the old tires removed at the local dealer.  A good friend of mine owns a business (ACS, Automotive Coating Specialist, INC in Tulsa, OK   918-627-5044) that was able to do some powder coating for me.  I took the wheels to him the same day I had the tires removed and we removed the wheel bears and he went to work.  I really has 3 choices on colors, red,white or black.  The red might have looked ok but might not have match exactly and I also thought the bike had enough red.  White was not really an option, if you have had a bike with white wheels you will know why, they show dirt really bad.  I liked the idea of a shiny black wheel and thought that would be best.  The wheels were powder coated and back to me the next day.  I have to say they turned out great, nice shiny black, perfect.   The installation of the wheel bearing was fairly easy.  You will want to make sure that the dust seals did not get damaged when you removed the bearings, if they did you will want to get some new ones.  Once it was all said and done I had the powder coating done and my 929RR on the road again in about 2 days, very good.  I also could have painted my wheels but I think the powder coating will be more durable.  You can see the pictures of this on the 2000 CBR929RR Picture page.

Galfer stainless steel brake lines
Some new brake lines we in order to try and get rid of the spongy feel of the brakes.  The brakes worked great but just were not that firm.  I installed some Galfer stainless steel lines and was very happy with the results.  The brakes are very firm now and feel great when using them hard.  The installation was not that hard and only took a few hours.  You can see the pictures of this on the 2000 CBR929RR Picture page.

Hyper Pro steering damper
A steering damper was needed after I had experienced a few head shakes and that was not fun.  I decided on the Hyper Pro steering damper after doing some research and I liked the way it installed the best.     The installation was fairly easy but you will need to make sure you have a socket large enough to remove and reinstall the steering stem /top triple clamp nut.   I would also suggest some thread lock on the bolt attaching the damper to the lower frame bracket and the 2 bolts attaching the lower frame bracket and tank to the frame.   I had the screw that attaches the damper to the lower frame bracket come loose even after I had torqued it to the proper torque.  The damper feels good when riding, it is speed sensitive so at slow speed or movement of the handlebars you do not feel the damper.  I have tested the damper a few times and it does work when the bike tries to go into a head shake.  I did a few small wheelies on a bumpy road and when I came down I could feel the bike want to head shake but the damper took care of this right at the time it started.  In 2001 I did 3 track days at the Hallett Motor Racing Circuit and the steering damper really proved its worth then.  On some of the slower corners the front end would get really light and want to skip around when exiting on the power and sometimes the front end would try and start shaking.  When the head shake would start you would feel the damper go to work and take care of it.  This was definitely a great addition to the CBR and it does help.  You can see the pictures of this on the 2000 CBR929RR Picture page.

Intuitive frame sliders
I installed the Intuitive frame sliders on my CBR929RR after I had done some track days in 2001 at Hallett Motor Racing Circuit.  I really loved the track days but felt that the sliders would help if I let the motorcycle get away in a corner.  I have seen other motorcycles go down with and without sliders and the ones with, were much better off.  The installation was very easy and all the directions were a snap to follow.  I would suggest using a torque wrench on the new bolts that are supplied with the sliders since you are tightening the motor to the frame.    The Honda shop manual for the 929RR lists the correct torque.  So far I have been lucky and have not tested these sliders and hope to keep it that way.  You can see the pictures of this on the 2000 CBR929RR Picture page.

DynoJet Power Commander III
I finally decided to install the DynoJet Power Commander III on my CBR929RR.  I tried to wait and see what Factor Performance and the Teka would turn out to be but after 2 years I was tired of waiting.  The Power Commander was fairly easy to install and did not take that long. Mounting the Power Commander unit under the rear rear was easy once I decided how I was going to route the cables and all.  I installed the unit on the side of the under seat area, not laying flat in the middle of the storage area like the directions show.  I think it is more functional this way and much easier to install the computer serial cable for loading different maps and doing adjustment.  The connection of the Power Commander to the main injection harness is not that bad but it is a tight fight if you have large hands. The installation directions that come with the Power Commander are pretty good.  I loaded the most appropriate map for my 929RR, the M104-003 map.  Once on the bike for the first ride I could tell right off that the Power Commander was worth the money.  The PCIII really helped the throttle response all over and seemed to make the motor much crisper.  The 1st gear on and off throttle response is much improved.  I will try and get the bike on the dyno soon and see where it is concerning power.

Sigma Sport BC800 bicycle computer
I have been reading about installing a bicycle computer on the CBR900 email list and really liked this idea since I plan on changing my gearing soon with a new chain and sprockets.  I did some research on the web about how this was done and with what bicycle computer.  From the reading I did the Sigma Sport BC800 was the computer of choice.  The BC800 has many features: speed readout, trip distance, clock, odometer, riding time, maximum speed & average speed.  I was able to pick one up at a local bicycle shop here in Tulsa.  The installation was not that hard but did take me some time to figure out how I want to do it.  I wanted the computer to mount right next to the stock instrument panel so I had to do some work and built a bracket to mount the BC800.  This was fairly easy to do with some thin aluminum that I cut the bracket from.  Once I had the size I wanted I sanded it all down and put a nice couple of coat on semi-gloss paint on it to match the stock brackets.  Once you removed the stock instrument cluster you will see that there is a stock bracket behind it that will allow mounting a thin plate.  With the plate installed I decided how best to mount the computer on the plate.  Remember the BC800 is originally made to fit on a bicycle so the mounting plate that comes with it is designed for that, it is in a 1/2 circle.  I had an old broom handle laying around so I used it to help with making the mounting easier.  I cut the handle in 1/2 and to make it just fit in the BC800 mounting bracket.  Once I had it the size I wanted I also painted it.  So now with the mount pieces made and painted I put some velcro on the small piece of broom handle and the aluminum  mounting plate.  The BC800 comes with 3 thick rubber bands for installing it on a bicycle, well I took 2 of them and looped them together and installed them on the back BC800 brackets.  Now I was able to spread the rubber bands apart and slide the BC800 and mounting bracket on the aluminum mounting bracket that I had previously installed.  The pick up sensor was a little harder to installed, well finding the proper mounting point was the hard part.  I was able to epoxy the sensor to the very inside section of the left lower fork tube.  I also installed a black zip tie for some insurance. I purchased some round magnets at the local hardware store and mounted one on the left brake rotor with the epoxy and another zip tie.  I run the wire up around the fork tube and up the left brake line with some small zip ties.  The cable turned out to be just long enough.  The directions that come with the BC800 are pretty good about telling you how to program the computer once you know your wheel size (WS)  To get your correct wheel size tape a piece of string to the front tire and roll the bike so that the string wraps around the tire. Be sure that the string is not inside the tread, cause this will give a smaller reading.  Mark the string where the 2 ends meet.  Take the string and tape off, and measure the length of the string.  This needs to be entered into the computer as millimeters (mm) not inches (in). To convert inches to millimeters, just divide inches by 0.03937.  I do not remember the wheel size I calculated but will do it again soon since I will be installing a new front tire.  Out on the road the computer would register about 3 to 4 mph lower than the stock speedo unit once I was about about 50 mph.  The true speed, average speed and top speed numbers are nice to have.  I have been working on a light and will post that once I get it all worked out.  You can see some pictures of this installation on the 2000 CBR929RR Picture page.   

I will post more information as I make other modifications.