{ Building }
                 10 inch torpedo level with bubble at 90 degrees
                 1/4 inch drill bit {Black and Decker Bullet points work great}
                 Center punch
                 Smasher -- 3 ton arbor  press, 5 inch table vise, or wheel press.

G-3 Parachutes  -- Cotton cargo parachutes that are roughly 24 feet in diameter.   They come in a rainbow of colors black, red, blue, green, yellow, and white.
Mine was last repacked in 1960.  Washing the
parachute in 20 Mule Team Borax will increase
fire  proofing.

The crimps must be parallel if you want this frame to work.
Check the conduit before you crimp. If you crimp on the weld or at 90 degrees to the weld the conduit will split.  I used a wheel press, but a three ton arbor press or 5 inch bench vise will work. Crimp 2-1/2" or 3" on one end of each pipe.  Always crimp the same depth once you choose one. I used the bubbles on the 10 inch torpedo level to keep the crimp on the other end parallel. If the welds are in a nice place you can use the printed labels to help line yourself up.

Using a center punch find the center of the crimp and punch 1-1/8" from each end.
This punch hole did a great job of holding the 1/4" Black and Decker Bullet point drill. You should drill a maximum of 6 holes at a time then let the bite cool off for 15 minutes.

Pipe bending was done using kids wooden blocks wood screwed to my deck.  My blocks were 1-1/4"
 by 2-1/2" so every crimp was bent to 2-1/2" and fully supported.
I used one of the deck boards as a straight edge.
Sin 36 degrees * 117.5 inch = 69 inches.
Shoved the crimped end into the blocks then pulled the other end of the pipe to the 69 inch mark on the tape.
After breaking all joints have to be spray painted or they will rust in contact with playa dust.
You will find erection easier if you rebrake every joint to 36 degrees before the next use.

A six foot step ladder comes in very handy.

Start by grabbing 10 tubes. Lay 5 on the ground forming a pentagon.  Putting washers at the top and bottom, bolt 5 together aiming the other end at the points, these will both together at about shoulder height.  Put the bolts into the bottom holes just spin them on a few threads to keep them in place.  Blue Locktite could be nice when  you get each joint completed.  Tighten that top joint down.  Pop the cool whip tub on, duct tape it close and tie your mason line to keep the parachute from blowing into the dome.

Grab 3 tubes, loose bolt them into a triangle.  Pick a corner add two tubes and boost in on into the air.

Wander aroung the frame forming triangle as the frame wanders around until run out of tubes.
When you get a triangle add the three mason lines to keep the parachute out.

Cover the top and the five corner joints with the coolwhip tubs then duct tape into place to protect the parachute.   I added this step after cutting a parachute on the frame during a calm day.

Use a checked stake to pin down each of the five corners.   Measuring 15 feet 6 inches from the point to the center of  the opposite bar will get the pentagon back into the proper shape. The ground joint looks like the above photo if you don't distort the joints.

Stake it down with the 3' checked stakes.    I hook them through the handles found on the chute at the edge of each panel.

We just pull the handle from the stake on the down wind side and use clothes pins  to  form a door or vent doors. Putting the spare water or supply boxes on the chute nets inside the dome on the windward  side helps take the  belly out of the chute and keeps it from blowing away during dust storms in an un-occupied camp.

I would like to thank SquareWave for the penta concept. And HomeBase for going under and selling me tons of cheap conduit.