Portland X

Xenos
Friday, January 27
St Johns Village is in North Portland, way North. I have not yet been to this part of town. The drive takes me along St. Helens Rd and the view is a study in contrasts. To the left are the hills and trees of Forest Park, the largest urban forest in the country; to the right are freight yards and heavy industry that sit on the bank of the Willamette River. After several minutes, I turn onto the high green suspension bridge that connects to St. Johns. Like the visit to Multnomah Village on Wednesday, this seems more like a small town than the Portland I know: older, working class, more diverse, slower pace; and it's the first place in Portland where I notice a fair amount of children about. There are banks and thrift stores and a greasy spoon cafe, and there's also a yoga studio and a tanning salon, and a few vacant storefronts.

It's hard to find Xenos, because I haven't written down the address (8527 N. Lombard) and the black awning that shields it is blank, but once I get out of the car and start walking I see the big X that marks the spot. The newspaper refers to it as Xenos House of Culture, but the sign says it is Xenos: A Living Room Cafe. And that's exactly what it is. Its a big space with living room furniture grouped together to make several separate sections and there is a small room in the back if you want some privacy (and get there first!)

I order a cup of tea (the least expensive I've found in Portland at $1 even.) Bring in your own mug and you'll get 25 cents off a cup of coffee. Xenos is a Greek word meaning "serving strangers." But the staff seems to be on a first name basis with everyone including me after I meet Christi, who has managed the place with her husband since last May. She explains about the name change--saying the old one may have confused people, especially with big black X on the window--some may have thought it was a porn shop. But there is plenty of culture here--music on some evenings, paintings, mobiles, stain glass--there are also three computers set up for free internet.

Christi explained that the cafe is owned by the Red Sea Church and is staffed totally with volunteers, many of whom are in high school and she seemed amazed at how much help there is. Part of Xenos' profits are donated to charity and they are doing pretty well considering there is a Starbucks two doors down (the only thing that separates the two is a Teriyaki restaurant.) Christi asks me where I am from and when I say Minnesota, she lights up. I'm always surprised when I travel how well-known Minnesota is. In this case it's because she listens to A Prairie Home Companion and that's how she knows how very cold it gets there. I tell her I prefer the winter here even with all the rain, since it's relatively warm. Outside it is raining and sunny at the same time, a nice sprinkle of liquid sunshine!

After leaving I cross the street to visit Saint Johns Booksellers, a small, but friendly bookstore that sells new and used books. And then I drive home, crossing back over the big bridge, grateful that I've seen another slice of Portland that I might not have otherwise, if not for this next-to-the next-to-the last letter of the alphabet.