Shawn's Guillemot 18 Click on any picture in this page to see an enlarged view Building the Forms Hull Stripping Deck Stripping Fiberglassing Coaming and Hatches Finishing Steps Launching Fitting Out and Customizing Materials Sources

Chapter 1: Building the Forms
 

	I carved inner forms from 1/2" cedar.  I wanted the gluing capacity of an inner stem, but not the weight of a hardwood inner stem.  The inner stems have been hot-glued to the end forms.
	The sheer strips have been screwed to the forms, and the following strips have been glued to the sheer strips without staples. After the sheer strips, I only used 4 or 6 screws and 2 staples on the rest of the hull.
	With the sheer strips attached, the forms, 6 strips, and the 2x4 strongback become a very rigid system.

Chapter 2: Hull Stripping
 

	These photos show the stripping of the hull.
	In the right-hand photo, I have just installed a lighter colored cedar strip. All of the preceding strips on the entire hull were ripped out of one 4"x4" x 8' piece of clear cedar that was lying in my back yard when I bought my house!

Chapter 3: Deck Stripping
 

	I glued up accent strips with sawn sections of 1x4. Once the epoxy cured, I sliced the accent strips into 1/4" thick bands. I had to use scrap strips screwed to the form to clamp the accent strip to the forms. The curved, flat accent strip wouldn't conform to the curvature of the deck, so I steamed it with a regular household iron. I simply wet a clean rag with hot water, laid it flat against the strip, and pressed the iron (on high setting) against the cloth until it steamed into the wood. The top of each strip was clamped, and I used pressure from my left hand and a bungie cord stretched under the hull to pull down the outside/bottom of the accent strip. I found I had to avoid the diamond areas with the steam or the heat would cause the epoxy to "let loose". I steamed only the 4.5" long areas of pine between the areas, but that seemed to be enough steamed area to help the strips conform. Once I got a strip bent enough to touch the form, I used another scrap strip to screw it down. Once the entire accent strip touched the forms, I re-steamed it in place to make sure it stayed that way.
	The strips have been steamed and clamped against the forms.
	Clamping the inside pine and redwood thin bands inside the cockpit area. I needed to use almost all the "Cheap Clamps" I had for this part.
	This photo shows the spot on the aft deck where the accent strips cross. The thin pine and redwood bands inside the accent strip around the cockpit area have just been glued in.  I have now edged the accent strips with pine and redwood bands and I'm currently filling in the open areas.
	Filling in the open areas.  Redwood on the interior, and pine on the sides.
	Generous use of masking tape, clamps, and scrap strips screwed to the forms take the place of all staples.
	I like how this accent strip sweeps toward the stern.
	I almost have my first area filled!!  The image on the right shows this area, filled with pine.
	Note that I flipped the kayak end-for-end for better access to the starboard side, so all images below this point are looking at the starboard side.  Most of the images above this one were of the port side.
	Accent strips crossing on the aft deck.
	The recessed compass mount on the foredeck.  The image on the left shows the compass ring before trimming.  I then inset a redwood strip plate in the bottom of the ring to mount my compass on.  I plan to use the Aquameter Skipper.
	Fully stripped stern and bow.  I plan to add stainless steel u-bolts to attach painters, decklines, and grab toggles.  Stainless steel isn't as beautiful as wood, but it is strong and safe.  Any suggested alternatives?
	Stripping the cockpit recess.  I steam-bent the strips in the aft part of the recess to lower the coaming to compensate for the raised deck.  I don't want the coaming so tall that it interferes with layback rolls.
	Installing the LAST STRIP! I'm using a scrap of plywood left from cutting forms as a clamping jig.  There were no forms left showing to screw clamps to. I used the white cord to hold the ends of other strips while glue dried, but the last strip took a bit more pressure.

Chapter 4: Fiberglassing
 

	Filling the tiny gaps around the diamonds in the accent strips with epoxy thickened with baking flour--it made a great pine-colored filler.
	Deck glassed
	Cockpit recess before cutting
	Hull and deck clamped on forms after inside glassing to prevent distortion

Chapter 5: Coaming and Hatches
 

	Coaming riser form
	1/16" mahogany and maple veneers epoxied together and clamped to form.  I will repeat again: sometimes you need a LOT of clamps!!
	Hatches covered with shipping tape (outer edges only) which was then waxed.  Hatches were hot-glued in place and covered with "black gelcoat".  I mixed copy toner and silica fume into the resin and painted it onto the waxed tape.  I then laid in 3 layers of the 5.5 oz glass I used for everything else.  By covering the wet-out glass with saran wrap, I was able to squeeze out the air bubbles, eliminating the need for any fill coats (or so I thought!)  I should have put more glass on at that time, but I thought that those 3 layers of 5.5 oz would be enough.  It wasn't, so I added another layer of the 5.5 oz and a layer of 15 oz  stitched biaxial, for a a total of 4 layers of 5.5 oz. woven cloth and 1 layer of the 15 oz. biaxial.
	The completed glass hatch lips before trimming. The front hatch was trimmed to 9" x 14" and the aft hatch to 12" x 16.5". I really didn't like the Chesapeake's hatch cutout design--there was too little front-to-back distance to allow me to stuff longer drybags into the compartments. After 2 trips, I really like these hatch sizes.
	Laminated coaming before glassing

Chapter 6: Finishing Steps
 

	Boat before deck/hull seam and U-Bolts.
	6mm Okoume cheekplates and bulkheads. I extended the cheekplate down to the hull so I'd have better support.
	5/16" Stainless steel U-bolts for grab loop and deck hardware attachment, as well as locking to an immovable object when I'm not in it!
	The completed glass hatch lips after trimming, with closed cell foam gaskets and internal bungies.

Chapter 7: Launching
 

	The Guillemot 18's first time in the water.
	Blessing the kayak with a fine bottle of Full Sail Amber ale. "Bless this boat and all who paddle it". My family said,"You're going to pour that whole bottle on the boat?!?" They just didn't understand that I've poured my heart and all my efforts into this boat, all winter long, and I'm not going to do the blessing halfway and be greedy enough to drink the boat's beer. Sheesh!
	We got a few 2' waves that day, so I did a little mild surfing. It is very quick in the acceleration department.
	Well, its July 21st and I've had the boat in the water 4 times. Its a super performer and I'm looking forward to logging some miles in it. I finally weighed it and to my astonishment, it only weighs 46 lbs. with bulkheads, hatches, and knee braces. This from a guy who built a 57 lb. Chesapeake 17! If I can build a lightweight boat, anybody can!!
	I took the boat out to the salty seas of the Puget Sound in August and hit the West Coast Wood Kayak Rendezvous, did a 2-day trip in the San Juans, and took this boat into Deception Pass--what a rush! I love this boat design more than ever.

Chapter 8: Fitting Out and Customizing:
 

	My kayak has ultra-aggressive carved redwood knee hooks. I also added some internal tiedown bungies to hold a bilge pump and thermos or Nalgene bottle.  These tiedowns won't work in boats without hard chines, or with low decks, as there wouldn't be enough room under your knees. These could present a potential foot entrapment hazard, so evaluate your boat, your installation, and your own skills before installing them on your own kayak AT YOUR OWN RISK!! The front bulkhead is located at a distance from the seat that allows me to use it as a footbrace. It is also comfortably sloped forward to give me more foot room.
	I fitted this kayak with a custom fiberglass seat and minicel hip pads covered with white neoprene.
	I chopped the deck of this kayak to put in a deeper coaming recess and lower the overall height of the coaming.

Chapter 9: Materials Sources:
 

Except for the wood for the hull which I purchased at the local lumberyard, I sourced the rest of my materials from companies who advertised on the Internet.  I must say that, without fail, the service, prices, and quality products offered by the following companies was unmatched, and I would recommend all of them again.  By choosing multiple suppliers, you can select good quality products at the lowest prices. I did ask several of them to contact me via email before the order went out, to advise me of availability or the final price, and Edensaw, Certainly Wood, and John R. Sweet all failed to return my request, but the rest of their services and products were too good to complain about a single unsent message. This is the second time I have used Raka products.  I whole- heartedly recommend their epoxies--a great value!  Hamilton Marine and Klingspor were "first-time" suppliers, but they had great service and promptly and enthusiastically answered all of my questions.