| Mountaineering in the Philippines |
| HUMAN FACTOR DIFFICULTY AND RISKS Guided vs. Nonguided Climbing With the mountain guide doing portage, procurement of water, determination of route, and other chores, the guided climbing party is sadly left with little opportunities for decision-making and planning. At best, all that is left as a challenge for the mountaineer is the test of his endurance. For tropical climbing where the stress of the challenge is in orientation, the highest level of mountaineering could be achieved only in nonguided climbing. Climb Strategy Climb Strategy involves the choice of climbing method, choice of route, camping/bivouacking arrangement, water-procurement plan and logistic plan. However, it is in camping/bivouacking arrangement that all other elements are hinging on. Light-load Push (Base Camp) – With a light load consisting possibly of water, packed lunch and emergency supplies, the climb starts and returns to a Base Camp. Very likely, the downward climb is a backtracking – a return through the ascent route. It is the easiest climb done likely in a few hours. Light-load Push (Final Assault Camp) – Whether pre-planned or decided on the spot as an exigency move, the climb relies on a high camp situated a long the way up the mountain. Very likely, a Final Assault Camp has a suitable campsite with a water-source. Practical for an uphill climb that consumes much of daylight hours, this climb could exploit a light-load push from the Final Assault Camp to the summit. It could also be resorted into for a densely covered summit-wall that prohibits a full-backpack-load climb. Emergency Bivouac – Much as a forced move than as an option, Emergency Bivouac is resorted into when the uphill climb has to pause because of the impracticality of moving in the dark or when climbers have reached the limits of endurance. This circumstantial bivouacking occurs when the length of the climb route could not be covered in a day or when uncalled for obstacles cause a tremendous delay. Very likely, the Emergency Bivouac site has no available water-source and the drain on the packed water supply could cause serious water-shortage later. Full backpack load enhanced by increased amount of water supply (as a mitigation measure) and the longer time devoted for the uphill climb alone make this climb strategy as the most difficult. Summit Bivouac – Whether forced by circumstance or pre-planned, a summit bivouac is integrated in the climb. In a pre-planned summit bivouac, the uphill climb may take less than a day and a lot of daylight time could still be spared for the downhill climb. A climb involving a forced summit bivouac obviously has a longer period for the uphill climb than that of a climb with a pre-planned summit bivouac. Less difficult than a climb with an Emergency Bivouac, summit bivouac climb also necessitates a full backpack load. Commitment The decision on what route to take for the downward climb demands foresight and planning, especially when taking a route other than the ascent-route. Mitigation measures are necessary when taking a new route with which the climbers have very little knowledge of. The climbers must be prepared to handle the variables - the length of time for the downhill climb, the obstacles, the absence or presence of a water-source and a campsite along the way. Backtracking – The least committed, backtracking utilizes the ascent-route for the downhill climb. Guessing is eliminated in the plan of the downward climb for the route is familiar and unnecessary delays are out of the question. Traverse-Descent – The most committed, a traverse-descent takes a route which is different from the ascent-route. Understandably, full backpack load is necessary throughout the climb-proper. The degree of knowledge about the descent-route is proportionate with the degree of uncertainties to be prepared for. An uncertain route provides possible risk of having a longer travel time than what was prepared for to cause serious logistical shortcoming. Worse, going back may prove to cause much more trouble. Navigational Aids Navigation in the mountain with several visual obstructions – fog, terrain and forest – is a daunting task. Failure to find an adequate campsite or a water-source because of delays caused by disorientation or inadequate knowledge of a region has very serious consequences. For instance, a forced camp in a declivity subjects the camper to the possible hazards of a flashflood. Map and Compass Navigation: The standard navigational method, map-and-compass navigation requires skill and experience to attain mastery. Visual obstruction complicates this orienteering technique. Compass Without Map: While directional orientation is assured by the compass, the absence of a map to refer to for terrain knowledge of points to access is eliminated. Mental Mapping: In the absence of a compass and a map, direction and position is almost impossible to determine. Heavy reliance on memory is necessary but it is a difficult proposition. Endurance An average climber must endure an 8-hour hike/climb per day and carry a minimum of 30-lb load. He must have an average hike/climb rate of 3kms per hour. An excellent climber could carry as much as a 50-lb load, has a hike/climb rate of 5kms per hour, and could endure 10 or more hours of hike/climb per day. Basic Mountaineering Skills A mountaineer must have the basic skills and know-how to survive in the mountain under modest or extraordinary circumstance of deprivations. To maintain the appropriate bodily needs such as water, sustenance and warmth, a mountaineer must have a working knowledge and skills in Camping (Selection of Campsite, Tent/Shelter, Clothing, etc.) and Navigation (Orienteering, Trekking and Climbing). In extraordinary circumstance of meeting an injury, he must be able to provide the proper First Aid (FA) or Emergency Medical Response (EMR) and Emergency Rescue and Transfer (ERT). Psychological Edge No amount of mountaineering skills could enable a climber to choose a sensible move unless he has a cool demeanor even in a tense situation or predicament. Safely said, most cases of fatality in Philippine Mountaineering could be attributed to error in judgment, rather than to ignorance of facts. The ability to remain rational in a tense moment must be an inborn talent. However, it may not be farfetched to assume that such talent could also be acquired from frequent encounter of dangerous situations. Surely, perpetual reliance on mountain guides deprives one of such opportunities for psychological advancement. Calculation and Experience Although common sense is an integral part of a safe conduct and a good judgment, experience provides the facts and, sometimes, foresight to directly avoid a bungling move or a shortsighted plan. Mountaineering experience is a body of information acquired directly from keen observation and long direct contact to the mountain. Team Composition The overall load capacity of a team depends upon the individual load capacities of each member. However, the climb/hike rate of the slowest member becomes the overall climb/hike rate of the team. At any rate, a member with an excellent endurance or exceptional skill will always be an asset to the team and may spell the survival and success rate of their common endeavor. The following team compositions are gauged in terms of load-distribution, rescue potential and manageability. 3-Man Team: A 3-member climbing party is ideal for the load distribution of common equipment and supplies such as tent, stove, fuel, rope, cookware, etc. Its small number also accounts for its manageability and team-rescue of a member who is badly maimed from accident is adequately possible. Tandem: Belay-lead climbing is possible for a 2-member climbing party. It could adequately share the load of common equipment and supplies. However, a member carrying another who has to be rescued is difficult. Solo Climb: Solo climbing obviously passes as the riskiest endeavor. Self-rescue is impossible if the solo climber is badly maimed from accident. Moreover, without anyone to share the load of common equipment, backpack load for the climber is relatively heavy. Large Party: A 4-member team could pass as a small party with the capability of a 3-Man Team. Meanwhile, it could be subdivided into two sub-units, each with two members sharing the load of common equipment. A party exceeding 4 members is already large and one exceeding 7 is already a crowd. While a large party has excellent capacity for rescuing a member, it could however be noisy and not easily manageable. |