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| BLACKPOWDER:Blackpowder grades (1F through 4F) are designated by grain size, and the rate at which they burn. The slowest burning also has the largest grains and is called "1F." From here, the powder grains become smaller until it reaches the finest/fastest burning powder called "4F." One thing to note is that grain size classification is not standardized. One company's 3F may be another's 4F, etc. It's best to find a "name brand" (like my favorite- "Goex") and to stick with that brand. Once you've worked up a proper load for your firelock, there's a good chance switching powders will affect your accuracy. There are newer types of "sporting grade" powder that give one much more "bang for the buck." One such powder is made in Switzerland and appropriately called "Swiss." I don't have any experience with these types of powder, but have no interest in them. I'm probably wrong, but I think "Goex" and "Elephant" (made in Brazil) are closest to what our forefathers might have carried. Even so, whenever possible, I like to keep my dollars at home and go with American-made "Goex." BLACKPOWDER SUBSTITUTES:There are several blackpowder substitutes available today, "Pyrodex" probably being the best known. Cleanshot, and Clearshot are also brands. Personally, I don't go for any of it. Like-minded friends and I, seem to feel that there's no sense researching and making "period kit" only to use this stuff. But that's just us, and with the increasing difficulty in buying real blackpowder, many folks use the substitutes. MAKING BLACKPOWDER:The formula for simple "gunpowder" is actually pretty basic:-3 parts potassium nitrate (saltpeter)-1 part sulfur-1 part charcoal (finely powdered). Ever wonder why old animal turds you see outside often turn white? Oddly enough, this whitish crystalline powder is actually saltpeter/potassium nitrate! It is the oxidizing agent in blackpowder. Weird stuff, huh?Anyhow, just an interesting note, I strongly advise against anyone ever trying to make their own blackpowder. It is safer, and easier, to just buy it "ready-made!" |
| NOTES ON SHOOTING A FLINTLOCK: Start by ensuring that the barrel is relatively clean and that the vent hole is clear. Excessive fouling can cause a ball to get stuck, and plugged vent holes guarantee you the proverbial "flash in the pan." (After no more than five shots, I use greased tow to quickly wipe my bore down.) 1-Fill powder measure (one hand holding muzzle and thumb extended beyond a bit to act as a guide when pouring, being careful to never hold any part of your body over the muzzle!!!) 2- Charge (pour powder in) 3- Place patch over muzzle and ball in patch (sprew-side up) and seat with thumb or ball starter (don't believe that starters are documented and don't use one myself). 4- Pull wiping stick ("ramrod") free and use the fore end to seat the ball firmly (very important to fully seat the ball or possible barrel bursts/bulges may result) 5- Cradle firelock in crook of your arm, and prime your pan directly from powder horn (or priming horn, if you use one). Remember to stop filling when your powder reaches the bottom of the vent hole. You do this as the flare from the powder burning upwards works fastest to ignite the main charge in the barrel. 6- Close the frizzen over the pan and blow off any loose grains of powder. With the lock tilted slightly toward you, tap the palm of your hand behind it to help spread powder through vent hole. Pull the cock ("hammer") back "half cock" position until ready to fire. 7- When ready to fire, remember to keep your opposite hand as close to straight up (90 deg) as possible with the palm flat and acting like a platform/rest. 8- When ready to fire, remember that you'll get a more accurate shot by "squeezing," instead of "jerking," the trigger. |
| PRIMING POWDER:Never use 4F powder as a main charge. Priming powder is very fine and builds up too much pressure when detonated. Results could be deadly, exploding the barrel or, at the least, bulging it. 3F powder is fine as a main and priming charge. One will experience little to no difference in ignition time from using 4F/priming powder in the pan. 2F powder works, but not as well as 3F. I don't have any experience with mixed grade powders (I avoid them personally), but have read that many have success with them. DETERMINING FLINT SIZE NEEDED:Locks are made in a variety of sizes. The way to determine what size flint you need, start by putting the cock ("hammer") in the "half-cock" position and close your frizzen over the pan (making sure, of course, that the firelock is "unloaded.") Next, measure the distance between the top jaw SCREW and the face of the frizzen. Subtract about 1/8" of an inch (to allow for the leather/lead flint wrap) and this will be the size you need. On a side note, sometimes you'll find a wider-than-normal flint. If you don't have time/the tools to knap it down, just make sure that it doesn't sit so as to gouge your barrel when you fire. CLEANING YOUR FLINTLOCK: I'm a bit of a purist and try to make my cleaning procedure as authentic to the 18th century as possible. I've read a number of excellent articles in Muzzleloader magazine, and coupled with a lot of "brain picking" (of those more experienced than myself) I think I've got it down. After every five or six shots, I'll swab the bore out with a bit of tow to get rid of excessive fouling. Aside from this, I'll wait until the night's camp to do a full cleaning. Hot water works better at cleaning than cold, but I generally just use cold. First, I plug the vent hole with one of several wood slivers (toothpick size) that I keep in my patchbox. I then fill the barrel about a third full (although not necessary, I find a small, tin funnel real useful for this). I then cover the muzzle with my hand, and slosh the water back and forth vigorously. I repeat the process until the water runs clear. I'll then thread on my worm wrapped with a twisted length of tow the size of a pencil (ends up looking like a Q-tip). Before putting this in, I have a length of stout hemp cord that's about a foot longer than my barrel, to which a tie a short nub of a stick to one end and a small hank of tow to the other. I use my worm to push the tow hank end of the string down the barrel. I start with scrubbing the breech area by twisting my wiping stick back and forth and then, keeping tension on the cord and scrubbing up and down, I pull the hank and stick out together. I repeat the process; first rewrapping the tow cleanside out, and replacing it after this. Once cleaned, I finish up by again repeating this process, but work some grease into my tow first. I use a personal mix of one part beeswax and two parts lard. Although beef lard ("Crisco") works fine, I actually use bear fat. (You can sometimes get this from a local taxidermist, or see my "Favorite Sutlers" page for my supplier). Some folks add a trace of mint oil to the mix to keep it smelling good (especially when using bear fat which tends to go rancid after awhile). This same mix can be used for patch lube, leather dressing, etc. Using the hem of my frock, I'll wipe down my lock face and pan. I've got a tight, stiff mass of hair in my pan brush so I use it and the tip of a stick to poke around and clean out any remaining "gribblies." After this, I'll generally use some part of my greased tow (from the final stages of barrel cleaning) and give the whole lock a good wiping down, EXCEPT for the pan and frizzen face. Every few days, I'll pull the lock and clean/oil the inside. To do this, I use a neat trick I read somewhere (Muzzleloader?) where you back out your lock screws from your sideplate a bit, and gently tap these to push the lock out. Unfortunately, if your lock has a tight fit, you risk stripping the screws if you're not real careful. Having said this, a snug fitting lock is a good thing. I've read that folks have had serious accidents when priming powder has accumulated behind the lock and ignited. A well made flinter should have a tight fit overall (barrel to stock, lock, sideplates, etc.) and there should not be excessive gaps. Even so, it is a good safety practice to occasionally remove the lock and clean out the area behind. Finally, I like to take a dab my grease mix on my little finger and run a small bead along where my barrel and stock meet. This helps keep moisture from accumulating in there and rusting "out of view." |
| For a fine page on lock-tuning, click here: |