FEBRUARY 2000 KUNMING, CHINA LETTER


Opening Words
Nanjing Classroom
A Superficial Sophistication
Trade & Transformation
Western White-Washing
Human Rights in China
Looking Ahead to SE Asia
Selective Travel
Closing Thoughts






Opening Words


Currently in the city of Kunming, in the south-western province of Yunnan. I left Shanghai after three months, it being a condensed glimpse of all China except in fast forward. Departed on January 20 for Wenzhou (2 days) -- a city which leads the way for privitization in China (95%) -- Fuzhou (2 days) and Guangzhou (close to 2 weeks).

Arrived in Kunming on February 9. This is my last city in China as I make my way for the border, to Laos and Thailand. I am picking up my visa for Laos as I type. A fifteen day touring visa. It will be ready by the 14th, afterwards I will make my way to the border.

During the thirty-two hour train ride from Guangzhou to Kunming I reflected a little on China as my tour draws to a close. It's almost like the end of an era for me. What started in early 1995 with my discovery of Confucianism led to a four month tour that same summer. Then a three and a half year term of monetary savings in Canada with the primary intention of returning to China, with Shanghai as the cherry on top. Now, nearly ten months of further touring gained ... I'm preparing to move on. A five year cycle.

I've experienced a diverse spread of thoughts and feelings here. Intense is a word that comes to mind. Set a few precedents, shaking up the 'comfort zone' our minds like to settle into. Fitting China into a larger picture, and having seen so many people on our three-world planet, I have pressed more into my 20s than many men and women live in a lifetime.

Closing thoughts on China before I leave the country. I'm going to discuss some of the larger context issues of China -- and Asia -- here, which I've come across and thought about more recently in my stay.

In letter one I touched on my 'downgrade' of China (Chongqing, Sept-1999). In letter two (Nanjing, Oct-1999) I reviewed my travel itinerary. Consider this the third and 'final' letter of my China experiences.


Nanjing Classroom


In Nanjing I was talking with a Canadian who was studying Mandarin and teaching English in this city. One class, confident he could handle the introduction of the subject (though it is explicitly stated not to talk about politics and religion in classes while teaching), he brought up the (then) continuing Yugoslavia conflict (in Kosovo). The class grew loud very quickly, with a lot of anti-American shouting and swearing, some students standing to do so.

Taken aback by the violent reaction of some of the students, he asked them if they knew about the "ethnic cleansing" role of the Serbians (the population expulsions and killings) throughout the course of Yugoslavia's disintegration, the US-Euro concern about the effects of the war(s) spilling over into other Euro countries, as two issues. The class was silent. The students stared at one another. Nobody knew a thing.

While he was telling the story it made sense to me suddenly that if you take out the (controversial) reasons for NATO intervention, what do you get? A US-led invasion of Yugoslavia. Hence the huge demonstrations by the Chinese population -- mostly by the students (the young powderkegs of angst and energy) at the encouragement of the government -- when NATO accidentally bombed the Chinese embassy in May 1999.

This surprised me. I began to question China again on a new level. Here we are dealing with the educated elite of China -- the university population -- and nobody in this class was informed of basic information. Yet thousands of students had protested during the May 1999 anti-NATO demonstrations. I thought if anybody would see past the communist propaganda campaign it would be the students who -- above all things -- have campus access to the Internet. Not so. Though the West is being engaged as a trading partner there is still a lot of propaganda being printed which is anti-Western, especially anti-American (as I've read for months in the national English newspaper, The China Daily ).


Superficial Sophistication


This led me to thinking of the image the Chinese people present to us foreigners, especially in the thriving cities. For example, in the form of clothing. With many of the men in suits and the woman in some of the most glamorous styles of fashion, I along with others give the Chinese a level of sophistication they do not deserve. It's a superficial sophistication, one could say -- only 'skin deep.'

When foreign politicians and businessmen tour China -- which is largely limited to the surging growth cities like Shanghai, Dalian, Beijing, etc. -- they leave overwhelmed by the level of development and sophistication achieved by the Chinese in such a short time (seemingly advancing a decade each year). Which is amazing, but still, they get 'the showcase tour' and the rest of China gets hidden behind a carefully placed curtain (or lost in translation/not being able to speak the language).

Thinking back to a train ride I took in May or June of 1999 it made sense why some Chinese scowled at me when I answered a few of their questions. I said the bombing of the Chinese embassy was a stupid mistake by NATO and in a time when the political and business sectors of the West are wanting China as a friend it certainly was not intentionally done.

They didn't buy this, confident the "imperialist-capitalist" USA is hell-bent on "conquering and subjugating the entire world" (in which China is an up and rising power). They asked me what I would think and feel if the US bombed a Canadian embassy in like manner. I again replied I would think it a mistake as Canada is a US ally in NATO. Well, when they heard that Canada is a part of NATO, something they had not thought of before, a few of them clammed right up, glares surfaced, with the conversation turning elsewhere.

Yes, looks can be deceiving, and underneath the fancy clothes and surging development is a fiery nationalism and a lot of ignorance, both reflected angrily in the Top Ten List of my Chongqing letter. One German fellow who camped a few weeks in Shanghai said he found it scary to talk to so many Chinese who respect Hitler, him being the ideal of a "strong man", a man of power and leadership. It's things like this that make me question China -- the land of Emperors and Great Walls -- to the core.

I figured on the educated Chinese to be able to see past a veil they have yet to pierce. And with that I have underestimated the strength and effectiveness of the current communist government.


Trade & Transformation


I am aware reform from an 'iron rice bowl' environment to a more free "socialist market economy" cannot be done overnight. It must be done in steps and stages or else chaos will result. But in all this I wonder if we of the West have over-valued China on the investment and expectation scale. Looking ahead, yes, there is endless potential to capitalize in the Chinese market which will benefit all. But that is looking ahead. We're still dealing with a totalitarian government that has threatened to nuke Los Angeles should the US interfere in a Taiwan-China conflict.

Trade does transform, as the products of trade present new ideas and values to be integrated by individuals. I ask will trade transform China fast enough? I don't know. I am unsure. It is frightening to see so much ignorance manipulated by so few. China, like humanity as a whole, has so many cross-currents of fundamental right-and-wrong it can go either way.

I do understand, however, China's burning desire to be recognized by the world, especially to appear 'competent' in the eyes of the West. For two millennia China was a great power in its own right. I know it wants that status back. In the wake of the recent World Trade Organization agreements signed with the US, Canada, and many other countries, the future of China's reform appears optimistic and increasingly 'locked-in'.

With many of the lessons of the Industrial Revolution learned and documented in the last 150 years, China is capable of intense growth in a short period of time, as is being shown. The West has, and is, attaining an ever-increasing degree of constructive nature-manipulation through trial and error, and the Chinese have every benefit in accessing the libraries of a free society to follow suit.

Add to that the advanced societies of Taiwan and Hong Kong, both 'break-offs' from the mainland, to act as buffer zones to filter intelligence and capital into China from the West, and you get excellent results in a short period of time. China gets the smartest brains, the best management teams, the most advanced technologies and industries, plus trillions of dollars of venture capital looking for a return. Sounds like a perfect match.


Western White-Washing


My worry stems back to an older issue, one which has been surfacing more in recent years -- in Canada, the US, Britain, France, Germany -- you name it. In Canada it took the form of the RCMP pepper-spraying and jailing demonstrators; the latter opposed to a military dictator guilty of crimes against his country's people.

In Britain, last fall a similar white-washing occurred when Chinese President Jiang Zemin visited. One American man wrote asking why the West was "kowtowing" to a communist state, a country which "regularly thumbed its nose at human rights" and makes no secret of its "war preparations against the West." He had hoped the West, especially Britain with respect to Germany, had learned its lesson from the events leading up to and including World War II. He continued by acknowledging our "make nice" attitude with China for purpose of trade and profit, with the West becoming more like the dictatorships it trades with when we prohibit free speech and demonstration.

And the list doesn't stop with Indonesia or China. Consider North Korea, with its communist government starving its citizens, yet asking for foreign "humanitarian-famine" aid ... and getting it! What does the government do with the money it saves? With hands freed from responsibility to its citizens it builds weapons -- like the missile it flew over Japanese territory in August 1998. Now the US, South Korea, Japan, and the EU are proposing to build two more "peacetime nuclear reactors" in a move to get North Korea to stop its suspected nuke program. Hello?!

We're legitimizing totalitarian regimes left and right. Regimes that would not, could not, stand by themselves if Western nations stood strong. They would bankrupt like every other bunch of thugs, screaming and crying for humanitarian aid from the West, the paradise of humanity. We're selling out. We're saying again that morality is *#@%* and meaningless. We're selling out long term for short term gains.

In the case of China, it builds to the sky, perhaps the most rapid development in the history of mankind, built by Western expertise and dollars, and who takes the credit? The communists. With 'their accomplishments' they swell with pride then turn around to slap us in the face with our "immoralities", our "inconsistencies", our "fallacies".

Is it going to be different 'this time'? Have we truly entered a "new paradigm" where the modern gospel of Free Trade redeems all? Or are we building the foundations -- again -- for the next war? And I wonder, with so much promise on the horizon, are we going to be set back decades -- again -- while we settle old morality issues with bigger guns, bombs, and more capable missiles?

As Asian nationalism is at an all time high I wince to think at what kind of war could happen with modern weaponry in the most populated areas on earth. And in an era of increasing globalism the thought of a war being limited to Asia alone is childish. Like I said, with so many cross-currents of right and wrong in the world and in many individual countries, I am unsure where all this is going.

In China I want to believe that the communists are simply a reactionary phase, embraced by the Chinese because idiot Western foreign policy in the mid-19th to mid-20th century pushed them to breakpoint. And with China firmly back in the reigns of its own territory, having consolidated and strengthened itself from 1949 to the late 1970s in isolation, it is now irreversibly opening up to the world, confident it can now handle a greater degree of freedom.

I want to believe this. And I think this is what many Westerners in leading positions would like to believe too. I want to believe the Chinese are not the equivalent of Hitler's Germany, that the Chinese are more civilized ... but aren't these the same kind of thoughts the British held when dealing with Nazi Germany? -- "Surely they can't mean it." The similarities exist and that's what makes me uneasy.


Human Rights in China


But another perspective, this time in support of China's current leadership. Always being provoked by Western criticism regarding "human rights" one Chinese official stated China has done more for human rights than any other government in the history of mankind. Having traveled around China for almost fourteen months now this is a strong argument.

In a mere twenty years this country has made amazing progress in human development. True, the explosion in wealth is largely untapped by many to date, there are many inconsistencies and imbalances to be sorted out, but China is changing -- in gradual steps and stages -- and in doing so, it's dealing with one-fifth of the human population on earth. That's both unprecedented and astonishing. And as China moves away from the rule of personal whim to the rule of objective law and transparency -- as it is (and it must to join the WTO) -- I think things will only get better for the Chinese.

So you see, when it comes to China I continue to have many impressions, ideas, feelings -- both positive and negative. I respect and love this country but to say it is the greatest country on earth is too much. Canada aside, China is the country I have lived in longest. The fact I am leaving is a summary of where I stand. I admire this country but not enough to invest my life here. To watch it from a distance and to return in the future for a limited time, sure. But I know for the rest of my life China will continue to interest me.

And these are some of my closing thoughts regarding The People's Republic of China.


Looking Ahead to SE Asia


Looking forward it is going to be interesting to compare China to the cultures of Southeast Asia. I have to admit though touring Laos doesn't overwhelm me with curiosity and passion, and Thailand sounds more like a two-week tourist destination and a freak show -- a country to evade mosquitoes, drink your face off, and watch the transvestites.

Singapore is a different story. I think this will be the little gem as I move south. Funny enough it is old British territory with a current 75% Chinese population. *smile* Ahhh, the West and the Chinese.

And seeing as I view skyscrapers as modern-day temples (dedicated to Man at his finest instead of to God), I am partly interested in touring Malaysia if only to step inside the Petronas Towers, currently the highest skyscraper in the world.

Beyond this I am not too keen on seeing Indonesia, Vietnam, Cambodia, Burma, the Philippines, even Korea. Taiwan and Japan interest me but I will skip those for now as they require me to hop off land and into planes. Further down New Zealand and some of the smaller islands in proximity don't instill wild passion but Australia appeals. And for the record, looking back into central Asia -- India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Iran, Russia, Mongolia, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakstan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, etc. -- I'm not overly interested.

Certain realities of some of these countries do spark interest -- such as Russia's precedent of sending the first man into space, it being no small accomplishment in the chronicles of mankind.

The Hindu world, most of which I think is for prehistoric man, is responsible for an animal (other than human) respect not common on earth. China has eaten all its animals -- only now are certain laws being pursued with the few animals China has left. For example "you kill a panda, we shoot you." India with its widespread vegetarianism makes me think as I begin to extend man into the larger animal world and the environment in which he shares his existence.


Selective Travel


That said, I'm being more thoughtful of the countries I want to see in the future. To put it bluntly I am getting bored with poverty -- and the key principles that breed it into many philosophies. I am tired of validating third-world mentalities with my presence and my dollars. It is like "I'm paying to be here?!" Some countries which show promise, like China, I can argue for and justify; others, like Muslim turf, yeesh.

Also, I don't plan to travel forever -- i.e., my lifetime is limited. Thus it is time to become more selective in my choice of destination. I am not going to see everything. I don't have to -- that's the beauty of abstract integration. More recently I want to highlight the territory that is in line with my thought, to further expand on ideas and provide a greater depth to my philosophy.

I said a few years back my 20s would be a time of internal construction (withdrawing into solitaire, minimizing external influences, concentrating on myself); my 30s would see the beginning of transition, manifesting externally (outside of me) what I've built internally (philosophically), with experience guiding me to addition and revision; my 40s seeing a real 'bloom' as I step forward with full force to manifest my ideas, to equalize the free-flow of thought/feelings and stimuli between the internal and external aspects of my life.

The countries which can help me most in my efforts to build a successful life, not surprisingly, are those of first world status. The abundance of ideas, the free-flow of such ideas, advanced research facilities, and an incredible diversity of inspiration -- what more could I ask for? A recurring thought in China, driven home by months of touring, has been this: "Canada and the United States, as the key components of the North American paradise, are the crown achievements of humanity. Why would I want to walk away from that?"

Endless touring countries simply to tour and be a traveler is not to my liking. With so much third world territory it is too small an existence. The traveling is a means to a larger picture. I had the idea last August to try and hit six out of seven continents this tour. Well, with a lack of other options in my brain that was fine and dandy -- then. Seven months later I am revising the plan. The fundamentals of my philosophy have been established. Now approaching three years of world travel I have come to see modern civilization in a new light -- from being able to 'travel back in time', to glimpse the rest of mankind in various stages of intellectual and societal evolution.

Along with this understanding I have identified potential career choices, with the computer/Internet sector leading the way. I left university after two turbulent years because of a lack of focus and feeling void of purpose. Both of these obstacles, as I prepare to enter my 'first decade of external building' -- my 30s -- are largely resolved.

It is too early to say exactly how my interests are going to play out when it comes to specialization, but the thought of returning to a university / college / technology institute has been on my mind the last couple years. Due to the inter-connectedness of my university experience, my poor scholastic performance, and my volatile late teens and early 20s, I'm a little edgy when I contemplate a return.

Used to doing things at my own pace I will have to adapt to a different kind of discipline. But I predict once I get a small taste of success I am going to be able to quickly transform and mold my environment to suit my evolving ambitions. Inspiration can come from unexpected sources ... *smile* ... with Denise showing me it can be done.


Closing Thoughts


Wrapping up with some final ideas:

(1) Thinking as to why the body=soul formula has stubbornly appealed to me over time, I began wondering about the influence an 'Inuit upbringing' had on my concept of man. Raised in a small town animal-abundant frontier environment where people had to wholesomely respect nature in order to survive. In the absence of strong religious ideas in the family, I think the naturalism of my upbringing provided a mold I later consciously identified in idea.

With the early years of every individual being the most impressionable I am going to pursue this thought when I get back to Canada. To attempt to re-build more of my early past through dates and pictures for purpose of a more complete Precedents I (1970-1993).

(2) What is so often missed in our attempts to solve our daily and long term problems is that many of us are dealing with a 21 century AD world with a 20 AD to 0 century BC philosophy. That kind of software is just plain outdated for the mechanics of today and tomorrow.

There you have it. The third China review of the last year along with some forward-looking thoughts. In April 1999 I set out to completely saturate myself with this country so I would never look back. I have done a more than adequate job. There have been things I have not seen, things I would still like to see, but I am ready to move on. Yes, I know I have been saying that for months now -- but this time I have the visa for Laos in my passport to prove it. I swear -- look! *holding up passport*





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