LADIES' SHIRT WAIST TOILETTE ON LEFT IN PLATE 3. Ladies' shirt waist may be made with either shirt or bishop sleeves and is again pictured below in Plate 3a, where it is accompanied by a detailed description.

Ladies' seven-gored skirt is shown below in Plate 3b, where it, too, is accompanied by a detailed description.

White linen is used for both garments as here pictured, stitching being the only decorations employed.

LADIES', MISSES' AND GIRLS' RUSSIAN BATHING SUIT ON RIGHT IN PLATE 3, is shown here in dark blue alpaca, and stitching and embroidery in white silk form the decoration. Tie ends of blue-and-white wash silk are knotted at the front of the fancy sailor collar, and an anchor is worked in white silk on the shield.

It is again pictured below in Plate 3c, where it is accompanied by a detailed description, measurements for quantity of material required for the making of the garment, also mention of some of the fabrics and trimmings which will be found especially appropriate for its effective reproduction.

LADIES' SHIRTWAIST. This simple yet very stylish shirt waist is made of white butchers' linen, and is finished in tailor style with stitching.

The garment is fitted by under-arm and shoulder seams. The back is laid in six lengthwise tucks and the very slight fulness* at the waistline is shirred. The fronts are shirred below the waistline and tucked on each side of the box-plait which finishes the forward edge of the right front. A narrow band finishes the neck edge and a back-closing standing collar is provided; also two styles of sleeve, either of which may be used. One is a plain one-seamed shirt sleeve, with the lower edge gathered into a straight cuff opening with the sleeve on the outside of the arm. The second sleeve is a bishop model, gathered at the upper and lower edges, and completed by a band cuff opening on the inside of the arm. The waist closes down the centre of the front by means of buttons or studs and buttonholes.

Linen, gingham, chambray, lotus cloth, crash, brown holland, pongee, taffeta, peau de soie, damask, pique, percale or flannel may be used to develop this design, with braid, insertion, ribbon or applique lace to trim.

Ladies' shirt waist can be made in seven sizes from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure. The thirty-six-inch bust size requires four and one-quarter yards of material twenty inches wide; three and five-eighths yards twenty-seven inches, or two and three-quarters yards thirty-six inches.

LADIES' SEVEN-GORED SKIRT IN ROUND, SHORT ROUND OR INSTEP LENGTH. Black Panama cloth is used for this stylish skirt in the present instance, stitching affording the only decoration. On account of the flare at the foot afforded by the box-plaits this will be found a serviceable and handsome garment for walking, traveling or golfing. For walking it may be made in the round length, and for golfing, tennis or yachting in instep length.

The garment is in seven gores, and over each seam two box-plaits are applied in tuck style, the material beneath being cut away to deep or shallower flounce depth. The lower edge of the skirt may be in round, short round or instep length as preferred, and the upper edge is completed by a narrow belt closing with the placket at the back.

Cheviot, taffeta, serge, Venetian cloth, homespun, voile, etamine, linen, chambray, pongee or gingham may be used to develop this design, and stitching is the only trimming necessary, although the lower part may be decorated with braid, bias folds or ribbon if desired.

When made of linen, chambray or other plain wash fabrics the box-plaits may be decorated with close rows of stitching, in a contrasting shade of coarse silk. White may be stitched with black, blue or crimson, dark blue or pink with white and so on.

Ladies' skirt can be made in eight sizes from twenty to thirty-four inches waist measure, corresponding to thirty-seven to fifty-seven and one-half inches hip measure. The twenty-four-inch-waist size, corresponding to the forty-two-inch-hip size, requires for round length thirteen and one-eighth yards of material twenty-two inches wide; seven yards thirty-six inches; or six and three-eighths yards forty-four inches. For skirt in instep length, thirteen and seven-eighths yards of material twenty-two inches wide; six and one-eighth yards thirty-six inches, or six yards of material measuring forty-four inches width are required. (This article continues on the next page...to go there click the "Next" button below.)