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DAY LOCATION* ELEVATION NOTES (water source) ELEVATION CHANGE (+/-) PUENTE DEL INCA 2720m/8924ft Hire mules, 182km from Mendoza 1a +130m/426ft 6 km Trailhead/Ranger Station 2850m/9350ft Ranger checks Permits 1b +470m/1542ft 7km CONFLUENCIA CAMP 3320m/10892ft WATER 2 +640m/2100ft 10.5 km IBANEZ CAMP 3960m/12992ft WATER 3 +310m/1017ft 5.3 km New PLAZA DE MULAS 4270m/14009ft BASE CAMP (4 Nights) 4 Acclimatization WATER 5 Days Hotel Refugio 1 km west 6a +640m/2100ft ~4 hours Camp Canada 4910m/16108ft Heavy Carry 6b -640m/2100ft PLAZA DE MULAS 4270m/14009ft 7 +640m/2100ft ~4 hours CAMP CANADA 4910m/16108ft 0.5 km south of main trail 8a +440m/1444ft ~4 hours NO WATER (maybe SNOW) Nido de Condores 5350m/17552ft Heavy Carry 8b -440m/1444ft CAMP CANADA 4910m/16108ft 9 +440m/1444ft ~4 hours NIDO DE CONDORES 5350m/17552ft WATER and SNOW 10a +430m/1411ft ~3 hours Berlin Camp 5780m/18963ft Heavy Carry 10b -430m/1411ft NIDO DE CONDORES 5350m/17552ft 11 +430m/1411ft ~3 hours BERLIN CAMP 5780m/18963ft SNOW 13 Summit 14 Days +1182m/3878ft ~7-10 hours The Summit! 6962m/22841ft -1182m/3878ft BERLIN CAMP 15 -1510m/4954ft PLAZA DE MULAS 16 -1420m/4659ft 22.8 km +6 km road to Puente del Inca – bus to Mendoza or Santiago de Chile *LOCATIONs in CAPITAL letters are overnight camps. |
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| THE PLAN: Check out the Reality to read about our Aconcagua trek of February 2001. The climbing season for Aconcagua is late December to mid-March, with the peak period being late January to early February when prices for permits, mules and rentals will be the highest. MENDOZA In Mendoza, Argentina, food and fuel can be purchased and extra equipment rented. There are several North American-style supermarkets and sporting good shops in Mendoza. Permits must be purchased and last minute plans are settled. Extra gear not used for the climb can be locked up. Guides and mules can be obtained here as well. Campo Base HI youth hostel in Mendoza (located near Plaza Independencia on Av Mitre, US$8/night) is a great place for information and assistance in planning a trek up Aconcagua. CLIMBING PERMIT Purchase your climbing permit (approx. US$120) in Mendoza prior to the climb (allow 24 hours processing time) at the downtown tourist office on Av San Martin (Note that the location has changed from the office of Renewable Natural Resources near the entrance to General San Martin Park). Many Aconcagua tour operators have booths set up at this tourist office as well. The park ranger at the tourist office will ask you for your passport, medical insurance policy number and your climbing itinerary. There are no other special requirements for obtaining a permit. They accept cash only. Do not attempt to purchase a permit at the Ranger Station in Aconcagua Provincial Park. GEAR AND MULES 1) Bring an ice axe. A steep snow field crossing near the summit can generally be negotiated without crampons, but the ice axe gives needed security. Rental of ice axes (US$35), crampons (US$35) and walking poles (US$10) can be obtained in Mendoza at Pire, on Av Las Heras. We also purchased white gas here. There are several other sporting good stores. 2) Bring a minimum of 2 litres/fuel per person. Above base camp, you must melt snow to provide the recommended 4-5 litres of water per person each day. Butane cartridge stoves are not adequate above Base Camp (4370 m/14,337 ft), use MSR-type liquid fuel stoves. You must remain well hydrated, breathing hard in the cold, dry air requires a tremendous amount of moisture. 3) Expect extreme cold (-30 C is not uncommon) and violent winds. An expedition quality tent and appropriate clothing are required. 4) Most climbers hire a mule at Puente del Inca, the trailhead on the Santiago-Mendoza highway, to carry food, fuel and equipment. Do not rely on finding any of these necessities at the Plaza de Mulas base camp. Pack your gear in VERY STRONG bags prior to giving them up to the muleteers, it is a rough trip. Cost varies from $US80 - $US180, for one mule which carries 60 kg. (132 lbs.), or approximately gear and food for 2 climbers. You can also hire mules in Mendoza through one of the many tour operators at very similar prices. We hired our mule through Campo Base for US$120 which also included the use of their camp facilities (cook tent and outhouse) at Confluencia (camp one) and the Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. PUENTE DEL INCA Bus to Puente del Inca, hire mules and begin the climb. US$10 shuttle bus and accommodation can be arranged through Campo Base. Accommodation in Puente del Inca is at the Campo Base-affiliated hostel (US$10/night). Puente del Inca is a small town with a couple of restaurants and a small store. No climbing supplies are available, although used equipment might be purchased from (or sold to) other climbers. THE CLIMB 1) Allow 2 -3 weeks for the approach, climb and return from the mountain via the Normal Route - Horcones Valley / Northwest Ridge. Check out the Route. 2) Allow at least 2 full days for the approach to Base Camp, called Plaza de Mulas at 4370 metres (14,337 ft) ... it is a long 30 km walk from Puente del Inca starting at 2720 metres (8,924 ft). And allow 2-4 acclimatization days at Base Camp. 3) What follows is the most crucial advice concerning acclimatization; specific to climbing Aconcagua. There are 3 principal camps above Plaza de Mulas, named Canada (4910 m/16,100 ft.), Nido de Condores (5350 m/17,550 ft), and Berlin (5780 m/18,960 ft). It is best to use all of these camps, in sequence, while moving progressively towards the summit. Attempting to climb to the summit from Nido de Condores is too long unless you are very fit. It is much better to spend at least 2 nights at each camp before attempting the summit from Berlin; and then to return to camp at Berlin after the climb. ACONCAGUA CLIMBING ITINERARY The Normal Route – Horcones Valley/Northwest Ridge |
| For more information see R.J. Secor : Aconcagua - a climbing guide (second edition, 1999) |
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