Erin's Rome Journals
4-22-02

Our first full day in Rome, we woke to sunshine. There had been a brief rainy spell the afternoon before, however, so we brought our rain jackets just in case (no more Siena-style drenchings!). The 'free' breakfast at the hostel consisted of 2 individually plastic wrapped bread items (a croissant and some kind of bran/raisin muffin) and a lunchbox sized juice box, in this case, apricot flavor. I love apricot juice, but Sylvia thought it too sweet for such an early-morning event (this from the lady who eats Nutella with a spoon!!!) ((for those of us who've never heard of Nutella, it is a substance like peanut butter in consistency, but made of chocolote fudge with almond flavor. Very sweet, meant to be used like we use jam - she and Andres eat it like yogurt!!!))
We set out together to check out another hostel in the same general area that might be better than the one we were in. The hostel Alessandro was cleaner and not too far from the train station, but still in a better neighborhood. So we made plans to move over there the next night (we had one more night at the dreaded M&J first). Then Sylvia and Andres went to find a travel agent to help them with some airplane ticket issues related to their round-the-world ticket, and we headed off to see some sights, with plans to meet up with them for dinner.
Our friend Shayne had emailed us about Rome, saying not to see the Coliseum until the end of our stay, since it would be the best thing and make all other sights pale by comparison. But after finding lunch items for a picnic later, we wandered down a street and ended up there, so we decided to see it anyway. It was amazing - we took a guided tour for a few extra Euros, and it was well worth it. There are no signs or info boards to help you learn about what you're seeing, so we got a lot out of the tour that we might have overlooked on our own.
After about 90 minutes there, it was lunchtime, so we sat outside the Coliseum and ate our sandwiches. We were assailed by the usual street vendors trying to get us to buy scarves and ugly beaded head coverings, but I must be improving my 'mean' look, as they left us alone after my first few vehement NOs.
Afterward we headed up the Via Sacria, intending to see the Pallatine hill where all the rich & nobles had their palaces (as well as the emporers), but ended up at the Forum just as the rain began. We stood under a tree with about 40 other people for the 10 minutes it took to pass over, then continued on as if nothing had happened. We stumbled onto a free walking tour, and once again learned much more about the ruins we were seeing than we would've known on our own. We tipped the guide, an American girl who'd come originally as an exchange student and then kept coming back to Rome, and considered taking other tours later in the week. There is so much history in this city, you can't learn enough to appreciate it all without help!
After the Forum, we walked down to Italy's most hated monument, nicknamed Mussolini's Typewriter due to its shape, the monument to Emanuele II. It is a relatively new building, having only been completed in the 1930's, but is now home to the eternal flame (cause for Rome's nickname of the 'Eternal City', originally maintained by the Vestal Virgins), which is watched by 2 armed guards. It's very impressive to see and has huge fountains at either end, but Italians hate it and have reputedly tried bombing it a few times!
Turning around, we headed up another street and came across the Palazzo Nuovo, which was designed by Michelangelo and houses governmental activites now. There we took a rest and watched other tourists for a while. Some protest was going on at the other end of the square, but we couldn't understand what they were yelling about and wandered off to find the Circus Maximus.
After a little misdirection, we accidentally found our way to the Circus Maximus, which now looks like an extra long running track. People jog and walk their dogs along the once brutal oval stadium where thousands died or were executed. The history of the city is incredible, mixed in with the rush of a very modern capital city. Strange.
I was now tired, so we started back in the direction of the hostel. We were to meet Andres & Sylvia there between 7 and 8 to find dinner, but they were a little late, so we watched part of a movie before heading out for food.  We'd found a place near the internet cafe that seemed popular, reasonable, and smelled great, so we went there and gave it a try. We recommend La Familia if you're ever in Rome near the train station! The food was good and abundant. All of us were tired afterward though, so we went back for our last night at M&J hostel (yippee!!!!).
The Colosseum's subfloor passways
Erin's next Rome journal
Glenn's Rome journals
Rome main page
Back to home page
The remains of an imperial palace across from the Circus Maximus