WELCOME TO PAGE NINE

This is a piece of 1/8 inch plywoodl.  It has been tied and allowed to stay in this position for several days.  When glued to the front of the curved dash, it will hopefully remain close to this position as it dries.

As mentioned earlier, here is the piece of angle iron that has been clamped temporarily to the frame.  The ropes will be used to hold the  1/8 inch plywood in place around the curved dash as the glue dries.  The front piece of the floorboard has been removed while the angle iron is attached.

Here the 1/8 inch plywood has been glued in place and is being held by the ropes.  The "C" clampls were installed to help pull the edge of the plywood down closer to the round wooden rod that will complete the curved dash.  The glue will be allowed to dry for several days before the clamps and ropes are removed.

Again, the 1/8 inch plywood has been glued in place.  The wooden blocks were installed to provide more pressure in places where the plywood needed to be pushed against the curved dash forms.  The glue will be allowed to dry for several days before the clamps and ropes are removed.

Another view of the clamps and ropes and how they are being used to hold the 1/8 inch plywood in position as the glue dries.

I learned from the first car that the steering/tiller needs all the support you can provide.  A piece of 1" pipe has been split and will be used to make a support collar.

Here you see where the two support collars will ultimately be placed.  A grease zerk was placed in each half of the collar.

The tiller handle has been installed temporarily.  It will be cut to final length and final curve bends once the seat is completed.  The two handles that protrude through the floorboard are the forward/reverse lever (closest to the tiller) and the brake (the one on the outside).  If I had been observant, I would have noticed that the forward/reverse lever is too close to the tiller and will ultimately have to be moved.

The two handles that protrude through the floorboard are the forward/reverse lever (closest to the tiller) and the brake (the one on the outside).  If I had been observant, I would have noticed that the forward/reverse lever is too close to the tiller and will ultimately have to be moved.

Back to the tiller handle collar support.  Here you see the grease zerks installed and the floorboard straps waiting to be welded to the collar halves.

The floorboard straps have been welded to the collar halves and will be installed around the tiller handle.

The floorboard straps have been welded to the collar halves and will be installed around the tiller handle.

The floorboard straps have been welded to the collar halves and have been installed around the tiller handle and bolted to the floorboard.

The car was driven and as mentioned earlier - the forward/reverse lever is too close to the tiller handle.  It must be moved to the very outside of the floorboard.

The car was driven and as mentioned earlier - the forward/reverse lever is too close to the tiller handle.  It must be moved to the very outside of the floorboard.

The car was driven and as mentioned earlier - the forward/reverse lever is too close to the tiller handle.  It must be moved to the very outside of the floorboard.

The car was driven and as mentioned earlier - the forward/reverse lever is too close to the tiller handle.  It must be moved to the very outside of the floorboard.

The car was driven and as mentioned earlier - the forward/reverse lever is too close to the tiller handle.  It must be moved to the very outside of the floorboard.  The speed is perfect, about 5 miles per hour.

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