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Another view of the rear chain tensioner.

Another view of the rear chain tensioner.

As mentioned earlier - the forward/reverse lever is producing the opposite action I desire. When driving forward, it is more comfortable to have the forward/reverse lever near your hand and lap. This is also a safety issue, since having the handle near you will allow quicker action to stop. Currently, if you push forward - the vehicle goes forward. The long rod in the right picture will be cut and the device in the left picture will be placed in line to create the opposite of the current action.

The "T" device in the above picture can be seen in this installation picture. The rods were reconnected to the "T" device and now pushing forward on the forward/reverse lever will send the vehicle backwards. Pulling the forward/reverse lever to you will cause the vehicle to go forward. This is the preferred action of the lever.

Here is a temporary extension to the forward/reverse lever. It will be replaced later with one that has less curve in the handle. It cannot be finished until the seat is installed. The height of the seat will dictate how much extension and curve will be needed. The driver side is on the rigtht so the driver can better judge the closeness of the edge of the road (ditch) and keep on the road.

This piece of 10"x10" thin steel willbe the instrument mounting plate. Four 1/4" holes will be drilled, one in each corner of the place. Later the throttle, kill switch, and starter button will be installed.

The holes drilled in the place in the picture above, were used to mark the holes in the wood panel located about the height of the driver's leg calf. Once the holes are drilled, the place will only install one way - the top of the place is stamped accordingly.

The holes were drilled and the 1/4x1 1/2 bolts were installed from the engine side of the wood panel. The nuts holding the four bolts in place were countersunk to be flush with the wood panel. Now the instrument mounting place will mount flush with the wood panel. After the bolts were installed, lines were drawn and the large square hole cut to accomodate the various instruments.

Here you see the instrument mounting place installed with the throttle (red handle), the starter button (brass) and the kill switch (toggle) all installed. The four plastic knobs in the corners can be removed easily to allow access to the rear of the panel. It also has to be removed when the wood body is lifted off the frame.

These four pieces will be the frame for the trunk which Regina wants to put on the back of her car. The trunk will serve as a tool box for the vehicle.

These four pieces will be the frame for the trunk which Regina wants to put on the back of her car. The trunk will serve as a tool box for the vehicle.

Two angle irons have been welded to the frame and extend to the rear of the vehicle enough to allow the trunk frame to sit on the angles and away from the body of the vehicle. The trunk frame is now welded to these two angle irons.

Another view of the trunk frame as it has been welded to the angle iron braces. The braces are welded to the bottom sided of the farme.

Here you can see the trunk frame in relation to the rear of the body. The frame is actually 2 3/4 inches away from the rear wood panel. The antique trunk will not interfere with the opening of the motor compartment lid.

This is a view of the bottom of the steering tiller handle. The 3/8" x 1" strap is bent to the form of the spring. The bottom of the tiller handle is welded to the 3/8" x 1" strap. The bolt holes already are in the spring. The top of the pipe is welded to three pieces of 1/4" x 1" used to form a coupling.

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