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The Chihuahua
In Brief

The Chihuahua Dog
World's Smallest Pooch.

Pronounced Chih-wah-wah.
This little dog was named after the state of Chihuahua, in Mexico.

The Chihuahua is a graceful, alert, swift-moving little dog with a saucy expression, and a terrier-like attitude and temperament.
Chihuahuas are usually quite reserved with strangers, and they have a preference for their own breed rather than other dogs.
Although they can live quite happily with other dogs and cats.

There are two varieties of Chihuahuas, the smooth coat and the long coat.
The Chihuahua is compact with a well rounded "apple-dome" skull.
His eyes are full, set well apart, luminous, dark or ruby.
His ears are large, held erect, and flare slightly to the sides
His body is well balanced, and should be slightly longer than he is tall.
A Chihuahua should never exceed 6 lb.

Did you know?
Legend and history are rich in tales of the ancestors of the present day Chihuahua. He is described as a popular pet, as well as a religious necessity, among the ancient Toltec tribes and later among the Aztecs. Archaeologists have discovered remains of this
breed in human graves in Mexico and in parts of the United States.
The modern Chihuahua is quite different from his early ancestors, with his variegated colors ranging from snow white to jet black.

So you want to own a Chihuahua?
The Chihuahua's size makes it a wonderful dog for people who live in small city apartments. The breed is very hardy and adaptable, but it must live inside a home or an apartment, the Chihuahua should not live outside.
Chihuahuas are good travelers and can easily go anywhere with
their owners.

Chihuahua
Breed Standard

Approved September 11, 1990
Effective October 30, 1990

General Appearance
A graceful, alert, swift-moving little dog with saucy expression, compact, and with terrier-like qualities of temperament.

Size, Proportion, Substance
Weight - A well balanced little dog not to exceed 6 pounds.
Proportion - The body is off-square; hence, slightly longer when measured from point of shoulder to point of buttocks, than height at the withers. Somewhat shorter bodies are preferred in males. Disqualification - Any dog over 6 pounds in weight.

Head
A well rounded "apple dome" skull, with or without molera.
Expression - Saucy.  Eyes - Full, but not protruding, balanced, set well apart-luminous dark or luminous ruby. (Light eyes in blond or white-colored dogs permissible.) Ears - Large, erect type ears, held more upright when alert, but flaring to the sides at a 45 degree angle when in repose, giving breadth between the ears. Muzzle - Moderately short, slightly pointed. Cheeks and jaws lean.
Nose - Self-colored in blond types, or black. In moles, blues, and chocolates, they are self-colored. In blond types, pink nose permissible. Bite - Level or scissors. Overshot or undershot bite, or any distortion of the bite or jaw, should be penalized as a serious fault.
Disqualifications - Broken down or cropped ears.

Neck, Topline, Body
Neck -Slightly arched, gracefully sloping into lean shoulders. Topline - Level. Body - Ribs rounded and well sprung (but not too much "barrel-shaped"). Tail - Moderately long, carried sickle either up or out, or in a loop over the back, with tip just touching the back. (Never tucked between legs.)
Disqualifications - Cropped tail, bobtail.

Forequarters
Shoulders - Lean, sloping into a slightly broadening support above straight forelegs that set well under, giving a free play at the elbows. Shoulders should be well up, giving balance and soundness, sloping into a level back. (Never down or low.) This gives a chestiness, and strength of forequarters, yet not of the "Bulldog" chest. Feet - A small, dainty foot with toes well split up but not spread, pads cushioned. (Neither the hare nor the cat foot.) Pasterns - Fine.

Hindquarters
Muscular, with hocks well apart, neither out nor in, well let down, firm and sturdy. The feet are as in front.

Coat
In the Smooth Coats, the coat should be of soft texture, close and glossy. (Heavier coats with undercoats permissible.) Coat placed well over body with ruff on neck preferred, and more scanty on head and ears. Hair on tail preferred furry. In Long Coats, the coat should be of a soft texture, either flat or slightly curly, with undercoat preferred. Ears - Fringed. (Heavily fringed ears may be tipped slightly if due to the fringes and not to weak ear leather, never down.) Tail - Full and long (as a plume). Feathering on feet and legs, pants on hind legs and large ruff on the neck desired and preferred.
Disqualification - In Long Coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.

Color
Any color-Solid, marked or splashed.

Gait
The Chihuahua should move swiftly with a firm, sturdy action, with good reach in front equal to the drive from the rear. From the rear, the hocks remain parallel to each other, and the foot fall of the rear legs follows directly behind that of the forelegs. The legs, both front and rear, will tend to converge slightly toward a central line of gravity as speed increases. The side view shows good, strong drive in the rear and plenty of reach in the front, with head carried high. The topline should remain firm and the backline level as the dog moves.

 

Temperament
Alert, with terrier-like qualities.

DISQUALIFICATIONS
Any dog over 6 pounds in weight.
Broken down or cropped ears.
Cropped tail, bobtail.
In Long Coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.

 

Chihuahua
Colors & Markings

                          COLORS

DESCRIPTION

CODE

DESCRIPTION CODE
Black

007

Chocolate Blue 359
Black & Red 014 Chocolate Brindled Fawn 355
Black & Silver 016 Chocolate Sabled Fawn 358
Black & Tan 018 Cream 076
Black & White 019 Cream & White 077
Black Sabled Fawn 354 Fawn 082
Black Sabled Silver 353 Fawn & White 086
Blue 037 Fawn Brindled Black 357
Blue & Tan 044 Gold 091
Blue & White 045 Gold & White 092
Blue Brindled Fawn 356 Red 140
Blue Fawn 036 Red & White 146
Chocolate 071 Silver 176
Chocolate & Tan 072 Silver & White 182
Chocolate & White 271 White 199
    
                     MARKINGS
DESCRIPTION

CODE

DESCRIPTION CODE
Black Brindling 073 Cream Markings 044
Black Mask 004 Fawn Markings 008
Black Mask,
            White Markings
005 Red Markings 023
Black Sabling 072 Spotted On White 071
Blue Mask 006 White Markings 014

General Health
Information

Chihuahuas are rather lucky in that they a plagued with few health problems.
The three most common being Patellar Luxation, Hypoglycemia, and Hypothyroidism.

 

Hydrocephalus

The presence of a molera in a Chihuahua DOES NOT make the dog any more or less susceptible to brain injury, seizures or hydrocephalus.

The molera should not usually be any larger than the size of your thumb print, and there should be no swelling, bulging or throbbing. Check carefully on the sides of the head for normal bone there as well; make sure there is no more then one molera, on the top of the head only, as more than a single molera is not normal.

Hydrocephalus is the accumulation of excess cerebrospinal fluid in the brain and is not normal for any breed, nor is it curable. Hydrocephalus is also known as "water on the brain" or "hydro". When fluid accumulates in the brain, it compresses the brain against the skull. A puppy can be born with this disorder, or it can be caused by a brain infection or head injury later in life. Chihuahuas born with "hydro" do not generally live more than a few months, and they do not grow normally, often staying extremely tiny.

Signs of hydro include wide-set or protruding eyeballs (often with a lot of "white" showing at the corners), blindness, abnormal behavior, walking in circles, slowness (mental and physical), seizures, abnormally slow growth and lack of coordination.

Concerns about Chihuahua moleras and/or hydro should be addressed to a licensed veterinarian. Be aware, however, that many veterinarians not familiar with Chihuahuas have WRONGLY told owners that their puppy is unhealthy and/or hydrocephalic just because of the presence of a normal molera. Diagnosis is based on the signs in conjunction with techniques to image the brain. In dogs with a molera, ultrasound can be performed by scanning through the molera to detect the excessive accumulation of fluid within the brain.

Unfortunately, there is no cure for hydrocephalus. Mild cases can be treated with steroids and diuretics to reduce pressure, or with a surgically inserted shunt to divert fluid from the brain to the abdomen.

 

Hypoglycemia:

Hypoglycemia or Low Blood Sugar can be caused by Stress, Improper Diet or Missing a Meal, Being Chilled, or to much energy being used during the day playing to long at one time. Puppies that usually are affected are the Toy Breeds, and are six weeks to 12 weeks old. The Liver stores energy, but in a small puppy it can not store enough for long periods, especially with additional stress factors. Signs of this can be as slight as a Depressed Attitude to finding your Puppy in a Coma. Treatment can be as simple as giving a small amount of Karo Syrup for a mild case to a Dextrose Solution intravenously by your Veterinarian. If you suspect this condition consult your Veterinarian for even a mild case, repeated episodes can lead to further more severe complications.

 

Canine Hypothyroidism

CEPS/Veterinary Extension
2938 Vet. Med. Basic Sciences Bldg.
2001 S. Lincoln Ave.
Urbana, Illinois 61802
Phone: 217/333-2907

By Joseph Hahn
Information Specialist
University of Illinois
College of Veterinary Medicine

All mammals have a thyroid gland. It is located in the neck and constantly produces thyroid hormone which speeds up metabolism. Hypothyroidism occurs when the gland stops functioning and producing thyroid hormone. It is one of the most common hormonal diseases.

"Hypothyroidism usually happens for unknown reasons," says Dr. Leslie Henshaw, a dermatology resident and veterinarian at the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine Teaching Hospital at Urbana. "Most of the other cases are caused by a destruction of the thyroid gland by the immune system."

This disease usually affects middle-aged dogs and while it is seen frequently in Golden Retrievers, Irish Setters, and Dobermans, it can manifest in any breed.

"The first symptom that is usually seen is hair loss," remarks Dr. Henshaw. "It is usually not associated with other skin problems." Other symptoms may include weight gain, muscle loss, lethargy, and a tendency to seek heat (especially in winter). Pet owners usually attribute many of these symptoms to the pet's aging process.

"This is not a life-threatening disease," says Dr. Henshaw. "If it is left untreated however, the lethargy will get worse, the dog may experience a mental dullness, and the heart rate can slow."

"The symptoms with hypothyroidism are usually subtle at first," she observes. "It is a gradual process which takes months to one year to develop."

Diagnosis of this disease is done by a series of blood tests. These tests are fairly common and can be conducted by your veterinarian.

While hypothyroidism is not a curable disease, notes Dr. Henshaw, it is very treatable. "The treatment consists of oral supplementation of the thyroid hormone on a daily basis. It is very safe, life-long, and relatively inexpensive. Treatment often rejuvenates a dog." Many dog owners are familiar with hypothyroidism because it is a disease which also occurs in people. Although there are many similarities, owners of hypothyroid dogs should follow the advice of their veterinarian, as the dosage of thyroid hormone supplementation is very different for dogs..

Dr. Henshaw remarked that hypothyroidism can complicate other skin diseases and, if left untreated, will affect the quality of life. Once diagnosed, there are virtually no side effects from the drug therapy and there is very little monitoring needed. Once the hypothyroidism is controlled with drug therapy, a dog will no longer be predisposed to other disease conditions. Dog owners are often pleasantly surprised that their "old dog" is acting "younger."

If you would like further information or would like to have your dog tested for hypothyroidism, contact your local veterinarian.

 

The Molera

Historically, the Chihuahua developed in Mexico and the United States has displayed a "soft spot" on the top of the head. In the Chihuahua this spot, or fontanel, is known as a MOLERA; and is the same as that found in human babies. In the past, this molera was accepted as a mark of purity in the breed, and it is still mentioned in most Chihuahua breed standards the world over. It is important to note that while many Chihuahua puppies are born without the molera, there are probably just as many born with one and its presence is nothing to become alarmed over.

As shown in the illustration below, the molera in a Chihuahua will occur on the top of the head and may vary in shape and size when present.

Unfortunately, many lay people and some veterinarians not familiar with the Chihuahua have tried to link the mere presence of a molera with the condition known as hydrocephalus. This has caused many new-comers to the breed serious concern and undue worry. The truth is that a domed head with a molera present does not predispose the Chihuahua to this condition. Along with the observations of devoted breeders over the years, there is adequate medical evidence to support this statement.

  • In "Diseases of the Brain" 1989, Green & Braund stated that many clinically normal toy breeds may have open fontanels without associated hydrocephalus.

  • Drs. Walker and Rivers, Veterinarians at the University of Minnesota concluded that there did not appear to be any relationship between the presence or size of a fontanel and the condition of hydrocephalus.

  • Dr. Alexander de Lahunta of Cornell University in New York, one of the top neurologists in this country, stated that it would be wrong to conclude that any opening is abnormal.

While it would be impossible to list all the medical documentation here on this page, these few included here are perfectly clear; the presence of a molera does not mean the Chihuahua has a medical problem.

The Chihuahua is a little dog! They belong in the house, at their owner's side, receiving all the love they deserve to receive. With or without a molera, the healthy Chihuahua that is loved and given proper veterinary care will live well into its teens as an irresistible member of the family.

 

Patellar Luxation in Small Breed Dogs

Teri Dickinson, DVM

Luxated patellas or "slipped stifles" are a common orthopedic problem in small dogs. A study of 542 affected individuals revealed that dogs classified as small (adult weight 9 kg (20 lbs) or less) were twelve times as likely to be affected as medium, large or giant breed dogs.(1) In addition, females were 1.5 times as likely to be affected.(1) Some researchers have suggested a recessive method of inheritance,(2),(3) and the higher incidence in females could possibly be related to X-linked(4) factors or hormonal influences.

Luxated patellas are a congenital(8) (present at birth) condition. The actual luxation may not be present at birth, but the structural changes which lead to luxation are present. Most researchers believe luxated patellas to be heritable (inherited) as well, though the exact mode of inheritance is not known. The condition is commonly seen in Italian Greyhounds, although no published data regarding the incidence in IG's exists at this time. Researchers(1) have suggested that due to the high risk factor in toy breeds, breeding trials or retrospective pedigree analyses should be undertaken by national breed clubs to answer some of these questions.

The stifle is a complicated joint(5) which is the anatomical equivalent of the human knee. The three major components involved in luxating patellas are the femur (thigh bone), patella (knee cap), and tibia (calf or second thigh). See drawing A. In a normal stifle, the femur and tibia are lined up so that the patella rests in a groove (trochlea) on the femur, and its attachment (the patellar tendon) is on the tibia directly below the trochlea.

The function of the patella is to protect the large tendon of the quadriceps (thigh) muscle as it rides over the front of the femur while the quadriceps is used to extend (straighten) the stifle joint. Placing your hand on your patella (knee cap) while flexing and extending your stifle (knee) will allow you to feel the normal movement of the patella as it glides up and down in the trochlea.

Luxation (dislocation) of the patella occurs when these structures are not in proper alignment.(6) Luxation in toy breeds most frequently occurs medially (to the inside of the leg). See drawing B. The tibia is rotated medially (inward) which allows the patella to luxate (slip out of its groove) and ride on the inner surface of the femur.

While the patella is luxated, the quadriceps is unable to properly extend the stifle, resulting in an abnormal gait or lameness. In addition, the smooth surface of the patella is damaged by contact with the femur, rather than the smooth articular (joint) cartilage present in the trochlea. With time this rubbing will result in degenerative joint disease (arthritis). Furthermore, while the patella is luxated, the quadriceps puts a rotational force on the tibia, which over time will increase the rotation of the tibia, thereby increasing the severity of the problem. The additional strain caused by the malformation of the bones may also lead to later ligament ruptures. Many individuals are affected bilaterally (both legs).

Signs of luxation may appear as early as weaning or may go undetected until later in life. Signs include intermittent rear leg lameness, often shifting from one leg to the other, and an inability to fully extend the stifle. The leg may carried for variable periods of time. Early in the course of the disease, or in mildly affected animals, a hopping or skipping action occurs. This is due to the patella luxating while the dog is moving and by giving an extra hop or skip the dog extends its stifle and is often able to replace the patella until the next luxation, when the cycle repeats.

Several grades of luxation have been defined(7),(5). In simple terms they are:

  • Grade I. Patella can be luxated manually (by the examiner) but returns to the trochlea when released. Occasional luxation occurs causing the animal to temporarily carry the limb. Tibial rotation is minimal

  • Grade II. Patella can be easily luxated manually and remains luxated until replaced. Luxation occurs frequently for longer periods of time, causing the leg to be carried or used without full extension. Tibial rotation is present.

  • Grade III. The patella is permanently luxated, but can be replaced manually. The dog often uses the leg, but without full extension. Tibial rotation is marked.

  • Grade IV. The patella cannot be replaced manually, and the leg is carried or used in a crouching position. Extension of the stifle is virtually impossible. Tibial rotation is quite severe, resulting in a "bow legged" appearance.

While no data has been published, personal observation reveals most affected IG's appear to have Grade I or II luxations. I have also encountered puppies born with no trochlea and severe tibial rotation causing permanent luxation from birth (Grade IV), and adult dogs so severely affected they were non-weight bearing in both hind legs and merely dragged their rear legs along in a frog-like position (Grade IV).

Diagnosis is relatively simple for a veterinarian familiar with orthopedics. It involves palpation of the joint and manual luxation of the patella. X-rays may also be used to determine the degree of rotation. Motivated owners may be trained by veterinarians to palpate the stifles, but care must be exercised in order to avoid injuring the joint, or making an incorrect diagnosis.

Diagnosis in severe cases may be possible at weaning, but in most cases the joints should be tight enough at 4 to 6 months(8) to allow reliable palpation. Screening of puppies at this age will help prevent large expenditures training and showing dogs which later prove unsound. Screening of breeding stock and culling of affected individuals should, over time, reduce the incidence of the condition.

Treatment involves surgical correction of the deformities. Many techniques are available depending on the severity of the condition.(9) Satisfactory results are usually obtained if the joint degeneration has not progressed too far. Once the condition is repaired, most affected individuals make satisfactory pets.

Bibliography

  1. Priester WA: Sex, Size and Breed as Risk Factors in Canine Patellar Luxation. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 160:740, 1972.

  2. Hutt FB: Genetic Defects of Bones and Joints in Domestic Animals. Cornell Vet. 58:104, 1968.

  3. Kodituwakku GE: Luxation of the Patella in the Dog. Vet. Rec. 74:1499, 1962.

  4. present on the X chromosome, of which females have two, XX and males one, XY

  5. Miller, ME: Anatomy of the Dog. WB Saunders Co., Philadelphia, PA 1964.

  6. Putnam RW: Patellar Luxation in the Dog. M.Sc. Thesis. Presented to the faculty of graduate studies, University of Guelph, Ontario, Canada, January 1968.

  7. Singleton WB: The Surgical Correction of Stifle Deformities in the Dog. J Small An Pract, 1969.

  8. Archibald J: Canine Surgery. American Veterinary Publications, Santa Barbara, CA, 1974.

  9. Brinker WO: Handbook of Small Animal Orthopedics & Fracture Treatment. WB Saunders Co., Philadelphia, PA, 1990.

 

Reverse Sneeze

Occasional bouts of sneezing, snorting, honking and wheezing are not unusual in Chihuahuas, and is sometimes called a "reverse sneeze". This is usually caused by a elongated soft palate that is thought to become temporarily misaligned. It is a common trait in toy breeds. Pulling hard on a leash, drinking too fast or getting overly excited can lead to an episode of reverse sneezing. Reverse sneezing SHOULD NOT be confused with a different condition called "collapsed trachea".

Although reverse sneezing may appear to be scary, it only lasts a short time and can be ended by massaging the dog's neck and throat and encouraging the dog to swallow or lick. Another way to slow the reverse sneeze is to clap your hands to distract the dog, or pinch closed the dog's nostrils with your fingers, forcing it to breathe through its mouths and to swallow.

Vaccinations

 

New Principles of Immunology:

I have been informed by my local all-breed dog club that all 27 veterinary schools in North America are in the process of changing their protocols for vaccinating dogs, based on current research leading to the development of new principles of immunology.

A dog's immune system matures fully by age 6 months. If a modified live virus vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces immunity which is good for the life of the dog. If another modified live virus vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not "boosted", nor are any memory cells produced.

Not only are annual boosters for Parvo and Distemper unnecessary, they subject the dog to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated hemolytic anemia. There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of modified live virus vaccines.

Puppies receive antibodies through their mother's milk. This natural protection can last 8 to 14 weeks. Puppies should NOT be vaccinated at younger than 8 weeks, because maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0 - 38%) will be produced. Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, DELAY the timing of the first highly effective vaccine. Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart actually SUPPRESS, rather than stimulate, the immune system. Vaccinations should be given beginning at 8 weeks of age (or later if the pup is till nursing), then every 3 to 4 weeks apart up to about 16 weeks of age. Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of age (usually at 16 months) will provide lifetime immunity.

These changes may present ethical and economic challenges to vets, and there will be skeptics. Some veterinary organizations have come up with a political compromise suggesting vaccinations every 3 years to appease those who fear loss of income vs. those concerned about potential side effects. Politics, traditions and the vet's economic well-being should not be a factor in medical decisions, however.

 

LEPTOSPIROSIS VACCINATION NOT RECOMMENDED FOR PUPPIES

Veterinarians at Kansas State University's College of Veterinary Medicine say that people trying to protect their puppies by vaccinating them against certain diseases could be doing more harm than good. The vaccine for leptospirosis, for example, used to be a regular on the list of vaccinations given to puppies, but the risks of the vaccine have begun to outweigh the benefits Leptospirosis is an infection caused by a bacteria found in the droppings of animals, including rats, mice and cattle. The bacteria is contracted orally, most often from drinking contaminated water. It can be passed from one animal to another.

Alan Brightman, professor of clinical sciences, said leptospirosis is a devastating disease that destroys internal organs, often causing kidney failure or liver disease. It is not found often anymore, though. State and local laws require that dogs be vaccinated against rabies, which cannot be done before the dog is 12 weeks old. K-State's canine vaccination protocol dictates that puppies receive the distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza and parvovirus vaccinations. These vaccines often are administered together in a "cocktail." Brightman said these are given to puppies at least six weeks of age and are repeated every three to four weeks until 16 weeks of age to make sure they take effect. K-State veterinarians do not recommend giving the leptospirosis, coronavirus or lyme disease vaccinations. According to Bill Fortney, assistant professor of clinical sciences, it is not uncommon for dogs to have a reaction to vaccines, causing other difficulties including death. 

One of the problems with the leptospirosis vaccine is that it causes more reactions than the others. Fortney cited the following reasons for not administering the leptospirosis vaccine to puppies:

  • Puppies sometimes have reactions to vaccines and there are more reactions to the leptospirosis vaccine than most others.

  • Leptospirosis is not often seen anymore.

  • The vaccine does not protect the puppy very well.

Prepared by Brent Gill

This has been a post from KSUPET-L, an electronic mailing list about pet health, utilizing expertise from Kansas State University veterinarians. This is a low volume list, providing one or two news releases each month. KSUPET-L is a service of Kansas State University News Services. Articles may be reproduced without permission, either electronically or in hard copy form. A selection of other pet-health news articles is available on our Web site at:

http://www.newss.ksu.edu/WEB/News/NewsReleases/pethealth.html

 

Are we vaccinating too much?
By Catherine O'Driscoll

(Catherine O'Driscoll is founder of Canine Health Concern, and author of the book,
 "What Vets Don't Tell You About Vaccines")

The truth is, we ARE vaccinating too much.

The American Association of Feline Practitioners, The Academy of Veterinary Internal Medicine, The American Animal Hospital Association, The American Veterinary Medical Association, Council on Biologic and Therapeutic Agents, and 22 Veterinary Schools in North America have changed their recommended protocols for vaccinating cats and dogs. The AVMA Council on Biologic and Therapeutic Agents (COBTA) presented their consensus at the July, 2000 137th Annual AVMA Convention. They focused on the following points:

When an annual booster vaccination with a modified live virus vaccine (i.e. Distemper, Parvovirus or Fe Distemper) is given to a previously vaccinated adult animal, no added protection is provided. Modified live virus vaccines depend on the replication of the virus for a response. Antibodies from previous vaccines do not allow the new virus to replicate. Antibody titers are not boosted significantly, memory cell populations are not expanded. No additional protection is provided.

Vaccine Manufacturers' label claims should be backed by scientific data. There is no scientific data to support label directions for re-administration of MLV vaccines annually.

Vaccines are not harmless. Unnecessary side effects and adverse events can be minimized by avoiding unnecessary vaccinations. Average pets are similar enough in their exposure to infectious disease and in their response to vaccines that we can have a standard recommended vaccination protocol. Veterinarians need a standard procedure to report adverse events from vaccinations.

Having observed that humans got lifetime immunity from most of their childhood vaccines, Professor Ronald D. Schultz, head of pathobiology at Wisconsin University, applied the same logic to dogs. He vaccinated them for rabies, parvo, kennel cough and distemper and then exposed them to the disease-causing organisms after three, five and seven years. The animals remained healthy, validating his hunch. He continued his experiment by measuring antibody levels in the dogs' blood nine and 15 years after vaccination. He found the levels sufficient to prevent disease.

However, I would humbly suggest that vaccinating your dogs or cats every three years is probably still over-vaccination. The same logic applies as with yearly boosters: circulating antibodies are merely going to cancel out the vaccine challenge. Rather, the three-year guideline is probably a political concession, mooted by academics to pacify vets who stand to lose a lot if they lose booster income.

But apart from spending money unnecessarily, what else does over-vaccination do for you and your dogs?

The Merck Manual offers some words of caution. It is produced by a giant vaccine manufacturer called Merck, and it's the animal doctor's bible. Under childhood immunization, Merck states that patients with B and/or T cell immunodeficiencies, or from families with B and/or T cell immunodeficiencies, should not receive live virus vaccines due to the risk of fatality (i.e. death). Merck describes features of B and T cell immunodeficiencies as inhalant allergies, food allergies, eczema, dermatitis, neurological deterioration and heart disease. Does this describe any of your dogs?

Children under the care of good doctors and nurses ask parents whether any of the above conditions exist in a family and, if they do, they refrain from administering live virus vaccines (which is what we give to our dogs). So you can't get away from one fact: you could kill your dog (who also has B and T cells) if your dog or his line suffers from any of the above conditions, and you inject live virus vaccines into him. Logically, it makes sense to repeat the vaccine risk as infrequently as you possibly can.

But vaccines are not simply implicated in fatalities. I have found many studies that link vaccines in with a wide range of diseases.

Conjunctivitis: a study was conducted by Frick and Brooks in 1983, involving two groups of dogs with a predisposition to suffer atopic dermatitis. One group of dogs was exposed to an allergen (pollen) and then vaccinated. They did not develop atopic dermatitis. The second group was vaccinated before being exposed to pollen. This group did develop atopic dermatitis, as well as conjunctivitis. The study therefore shows that vaccines sensitize, triggering an allergic state, of which conjunctivitis, as well as atopic dermatitis, are symptoms.

This explains why Canine Health Concern's (CHC's) vaccine survey, involving over 4,000 dogs, should find that 56.9% of all dogs in the survey with conjunctivitis first developed it within three months of a vaccine shot, and 61.2% of dogs with skin problems first manifested symptoms within this crucial timeframe. Our premise is that if the vaccine has no bearing on subsequent illness, then only 25% of all illnesses should begin within each three-month period of the year. Please bear in mind that, across the board, most conditions began within a week of the shot.

Gastro-intestinal problems: I am sure you are aware of the controversy surrounding the MMR vaccine and the assertion of scientists in the UK and the USA that the vaccine causes irritable bowel syndrome/Crohn's disease. My own research indicates that inflammation of the gastro-intestinal tract is a byproduct of the vaccine process, rather than being associated with a specific vaccine, although the practice of injecting a number of different viruses at one time may have a bearing. CHC's vaccine survey found that 2.7% of all dogs surveyed had colitis, with 56.9% of cases occurring within three months post-vaccination.

The Concise Oxford Veterinary Dictionary states that Type I hypersensitivity reactions are brought about by an antigen reacting with tissue mast cells bearing specific antibodies on their membranes. This releases substances which cause inflammation. The signs of Type I hypersensitivity vary with the species affected, but can include bronchial constriction, diarrhea, vomiting, salivation, abdominal pain, and cyanosis. (The word 'inflammation' is key in the vaccine debate.)

In a paper prepared by R. Brooks of the Commonwealth Serum Laboratories Limited for the Australian Veterinary Journal (October 1991), entitled 'Adverse reactions to canine and feline vaccines', systemic reactions to vaccines are described.

Under Type I hypersensitivity, the paper shows that clinical signs in dogs include an initial restlessness, vomiting, diarrhea and dyspnea. Brooks tells us that some cases can progress to collapse and death.

As a top level guide, inflammatory (allergic) type reactions post-vaccination can be explained by research conducted by Dr. Larry Glickman, and Dr. Harm Hogenesch at Purdue University, although there is a good deal of other research to choose from. Their paper was presented at the International Veterinary Vaccines and Diagnostics Conference, 1997.

The team studied the effects of routinely used vaccination protocol on the immune and endocrine system of Beagles. One control group was not vaccinated and the other group was vaccinated with a commercial multivalent vaccine at 8, 10, 12, 16 and 20 weeks of age, and with a rabies vaccine at 16 weeks of age.

The vaccinated group developed significant levels of autoantibodies of fibronectin, laminim, DNA, albumin, Cytochrome C, transferring, cardiolipin, and collagen. This indicates that, when vaccinated, dogs begin to attack their own biochemistry: they become allergic to themselves. Dr. William R. La Rosa of the sponsoring Hayward Foundation remarked, "... speculation must be that something in the vaccine is one of the etiologies (in the genetically susceptible dog) of such diseases as cardiomyopathy, lupus, erythematosus, glomerulonephritis, etc."

One finding in the CHC survey, for example, was that 53.7% of dogs with kidney damage first developed the condition within three months of a shot. This is hardly surprising when one looks at the Purdue study, since one of the biochemicals being attacked post vaccination is laminin - and laminin coats kidney cells.

Similarly, autoantibodies to collagen might explain the locomotor conditions recorded against cats and dogs in a veterinary practice record survey conducted by the vet Ilse Pedler. Vaccine components have also been found in the bones of arthritic patients, and other studies show that vaccines cause arthritis.

We need also to be alarmed that the Purdue study showed that vaccinated dogs develop autoantibodies to their own DNA, indicating that vaccines cause genetic damage, and we must question the point of scientific research that looks for genetic defects in our dogs when we are constantly introducing new defects with vaccines.

A high number of behavioral problems were found to arise post-vaccination by Ilse Pedler, as well as in the CHC survey. In the CHC survey, 73.1% of dogs with short attention spans first developed this condition in the crucial post-shot period; 72.5% developed nervous/worrying dispositions; and 64.9% began to display behavioral problems.

Encephalitis, or inflammation of the brain, is a known and accepted possible sequel to vaccination. The Merck Manual states, for example, "In acute disseminated encephalomyelitis (post infectious encephalitis), demyelination can occur spontaneously, but usually follows a viral infection or inoculation (or very rarely, a bacterial vaccine), suggesting an immunologic cause." This points to a connection between encephalitis and behavioral problems in both humans and animals.

It is interesting that Ilse Pedler noted spinal pain in her survey of practice records, since Merck states that many encephalitides extend to involve the spinal cord.

Ilse Pedler also noticed the onset of epilepsy in animals post-vaccination. Indeed, this merely corroborates our own research, which recorded 73.1% of dogs with epilepsy developing it within three months of a vaccine event. Merck lists epilepsy as a symptom of encephalitis. I wonder how many vets think to report post-vaccinal epilepsy to the VMD's adverse events surveillance scheme?

Despite this, Intervet has been quoted at public meetings, and in the press, claiming that epilepsy is not vaccine-induced. Conversely, Merck lists epilepsy as a symptom of encephalitis, and vaccines as a cause of encephalitis.

Pedler also found a number of injection site reactions in dogs. 81.1% of dogs reported to have a tumor or growth at vaccine site in the CHC survey first developed the tumor within the three-month post-vaccine period.

Collapse was also reported by Pedler, and anaphylactic shock is an accepted possible sequel to vaccination. Anaphylactic shock can lead to death unless adrenaline is administered immediately.

These are but some of the studies linking vaccines to life-changing or life-threatening illnesses. Dr. Jean Dodds, an American vet and researcher, has also written a number of scientific papers to illustrate the correlation between MLV vaccines and a rise in immune- and blood-mediated diseases such as cancer, leukemia, autoimmune hemolytic anemia, thyroid disease, and Addisons.

There appear to be two factors preventing drastic changes in vaccine policies for companion animals. The first is that vets have been taught that annual vaccination is necessary, and tie-ins between academic teaching establishments and the veterinary pharmaceutical industry, as well as lost practice income, slow the pace of change.

The second factor is fear: we dog lovers are used to relying upon the advice of our vets - who surely are more knowledgeable than us - and we are frightened of exposing our animals to infectious disease.

15 Frequently Asked
Questions

 

1. Are Chihuahuas very expensive?

Prices can very greatly from region to region.  The price usually depends on whether you are looking for a dog to breed, show or to just be a wonderful companion.  Naturally a dog meant for breeding or a show quality puppy will cost more than a nice pet.  If you plan on breeding or showing your Chihuahua in either conformation or any other AKC recognized event, it is vital that you purchase a Chihuahua that can be registered with the AKC.  The registration papers (which the breeder provides) mean that the parents of your Chihuahua are registered with the AKC and that the puppy is also able to be registered with AKC. This registration can either be a full or limited registration*.

          

*A limited registration means that even though your Chihuahua is registered, none of his/her offspring can be registered.  The dog is also ineligible to compete in conformation shows.  It may compete in other events such as: obedience, agility, flyball and many others.  It also does not effect his value as a wonderful companion.

          

Additionally, most reputable breeders will provide you with a complete health record, a pedigree of your dog, and many will use a contract to outline the terms of the sale.  Do not be surprised by a contract.  READ IT before signing it.  Many breeders make a lifetime commitment to their dogs and are only trying to look out for the welfare of the dogs they produce. A contract should state what you can do if you are unable to keep the dog, if it becomes ill in the first weeks, and numerous other important items.  Do NOT be scared off by a contract.

Registration papers: These certificates and papers ensure that the dog you are purchasing is a purebred; however, I hasten to add that just because a dog has papers, does not mean it qualifies for exhibitions and competitions. (See AKC Chihuahua Breed Standard.) Additionally, papers do not necessarily insure that the breeding Chihuahuas were well cared for or that they are free from genetic defect.

Registration papers are not necessarily important when looking for a good pet, but meeting the breeder and seeing the conditions in which the dog was raised is. You should also expect to see the parents (or at least the mother) of the puppy you are thinking of buying so that you can verify that the parents are sound and of good temperament.

 

2. What is their average life-span?

Toy breeds tend to have a rather long life span, compared to large breeds.   Expect a life-span of 11-18 years, if the dog is healthy as a puppy, comes from healthy parents, and receives regular veterinary care, a good diet, plenty of exercise and love.

 

3. How much exercise do they require?

Not much. This little breed has short bursts of energy each day which quickly die down. You should provide toys for your Chihuahua to keep it occupied. Most enjoy stuffed toys with squeakers inside (make sure that they cannot remove or swallow the squeaker). You can certainly take your Chi for walks. (You'll make many an acquaintance due to the diminutive appearance and outgoing attitude of your Chihuahua!)

When buying a leash for your Chihuahua, remember that its neck is rather small and delicate compared to other dog's necks. You cannot (and, indeed, should not) yank your dog around by the leash if s/he has a neck collar on. I recommend the body-harness for two reasons: safety and comfort. If fitted right, it will give your Chi a secure and comfortable walk, and harnesses also ensure your dog cannot escape -- a real concern if you live in an urban area.

 

4. Do Chihuahuas require special dog food?

No. They have the same nutritional needs as most dogs. There are many good premium quality dog foods on the market.  We prefer to feed Eukanuba dog foods but there are others available of equal quality.

Chihuahuas prefer several small meals per day, rather than one big meal. We leave a bowl of dry food out for our dogs at all times so that they can eat when they are ready.  (This does not work for everyone)  If you free-feed you dog, be sure and watch their weight.  It is not healthy to over feed a dog.

 

5. I've heard they're nervous, high-strung little yappy dogs. Is that true?

Yes, they can be a little high-strung. I define "high-strung" as follows: barks easily, does not adapt easily to change in environment, is suspicious of strangers and will growl at them, and flips in circles and jumps around when excited (like when you come home after a five-minute absence, for instance).

However, with the person that they have bonded with (i.e., their master[s]), they do not display most of these characteristics; in fact, they display radically different personalities. Chihuahuas are truly the "Jekyll-and-Hyde" of the dog breeds: your friends will see the worst side of them and never believe you when you tell them that your Chihuahua is really a gentle, sweet-natured dog.

There is good news, though. If you socialize your Chihuahua at an early age, they will be less stressed when new environments and people are introduced to them in adulthood. Proper socialization is critical, at the earliest age possible.  Make sure your Chi has had all necessary vaccinations before going out to meet the world.

 

6. Are Chihuahuas good with children?

Generally, no. Be careful when walking your Chihuahua to keep your Chihuahua well away from toddlers and young children, who are often uninhibited and will approach your dog.  A child falling can be a great danger to a Chihuahua.

Again, this is general good advice; some Chihuahuas are friendly around children.  In this case and others, the owner's knowledge of his or her Chihuahua and good judgment should prevail.

 

7. I'm allergic to dogs, but I heard Chihuahuas won't bother me; is that true?

Opinion seems to vary on this point. Some say it's an old-wives' tale, while others swear that, although they're allergic to other dogs, Chihuahuas did not bother them.

The best way for someone who has allergies to find out if they can own a Chihuahua is for them to simply spend some time around one. Some people are allergic to dog hair, while others are allergic to the dander or saliva. Since Chihuahua's are known to lick the face of their master a lot, you'd best be sure you're not allergic to the latter before investing in this breed. If a Chihuahua happens to "work" for some allergic individuals, this is great.

 

8. Is there a differences between the smooth coats and the long coats?

The issue of whether or not there is a difference between the long- and smooth-coated varieties seems to be a topic of debate within the Chihuahua community. Some claim that there is no difference, while others believe there is a great difference.

Once the decision to buy a Chihuahua has been made, one must choose between the long- and smooth-coated varieties. Though there are exceptions, the following observations regarding Chihuahuas have generally proven true through my years of experience. The varieties seem to differ in five respects in particular: temperament, ability to withstand cold temperatures, desire to be a lapdog, shedding, and tendency to ear-problems.

It is my experience and opinion Chihuahua temperament differs with coat variety. Smooth coats are usually a bit more bold; long-coated Chihuahuas, while not shy, are usually a bit more reserved.

Cold temperatures are difficult for smooth Chihuahuas to endure. (This is especially true of smooths that lack undercoat.) A smooth will tolerate a brief trip outside in cold weather for exercise, but it's wise to put a sweater on it. Conversely, many long-coated Chihuahuas love to romp in the snow. Because of their small size, even a three-inch snow accumulation creates quite an obstacle for our little ones. No Chihuahua can endure being outdoors in cold weather for extended periods. Chihuahuas should be kept warm and dry as much as possible.

Both smooth- and long-coated Chihuahuas are good lapdogs. Smooths enjoy sitting on a lap and enjoy the warmth of a person's body. Although long coats also enjoy human contact, they are more inclined to sit beside or near a person than on a lap. If they do sit on a lap, they often become so warm that they pant. As a teenager I often sneaked my first Chihuahua into my bedroom. This smooth coat was quite content to be under the covers with me. This is characteristic of smooth coats. Long coats, on the other hand, are more inclined to lay on top of the covers when in bed.

The contrast of how the two varieties shed coat is generally the reverse of what one would imagine. Smooth-coated Chihuahuas shed year-round. Their hairs stick easily into clothing, upholstery, carpets and draperies. Long-coated Chihuahuas tend to shed more seasonally. Their long hairs, once shed, are easier to remove by brushing or vacuuming than the tiny, sharp hairs of smooth coats. The hairs of smooths seem to embed themselves into the weave of fabrics. I know an English breeder of smooth Chihuahuas whose living-room furniture is upholstered in leather for this reason. Leather is easier to keep hair-free than fabric.

Finally, smooths seem to be much more prone to ear-leather problems. There is a tendency for the outer edges of smooths' ears to thicken, become oily in appearance, crack, and eventually slough off. This leaves the ear devoid of hair along the edges. Though my veterinarian has never diagnosed the cause of this condition, several breeders feel that a fungus may be responsible. I have seldom, if ever, had this problem with a long-coated Chihuahua. My experience has been that once this condition starts, it runs its course in spite of intervention. The condition is not a huge problem; I've had smooths that have had multiple bouts of it with little ill effect. The biggest disadvantage of dealing with it comes when one wishes to show an animal while the condition persists.

Chihuahuas of both varieties make wonderful pets. They are intelligent and usually quite eager to please their owners. Prospective pet purchasers have to assess the differences between the coat varieties before they make a choice, but they should also remember that there are exceptions to every generalization.

-- Richard V. Miller,
(Taken from the Chihuahua breed column Dec.1998)

 

9. Are they sociable with other dogs?

Chihuahuas usually have a preference for their own breed rather than other dogs. Although they can live quite happily with other dogs and cats. Chis are very sociable with their own kind. So several Chihuahuas can be quite happy living in the same household. This includes two or more males sharing the same house.

 

10. Can Chihuahuas be trained?

Yes, they can be trained. The purpose of this FAQ is not to outline or advocate any training method, especially since there are many resources that deal with this topic extensively.

Chihuahuas can be trained for many purposes.  Obedience, agility, therapy dog, I even saw one competing in a fly-ball competition.  With time and patients there is no end to what you can train your Chihuahua to do.

Are they smart? Yes indeed, they've got brains inside those little heads, and they're anxious to use them. Chihuahuas are some of the brightest around, and more than a few excel in obedience competition.  Better still, they love to be the center of attention and so are naturals when it comes to learning tricks.

 

11. Is my Chihuahua a dog or a mole?

It is a characteristic of the Chihuahua to prefer to sleep under a cloth or blanket. They will even get under pillows in order to feel snug.

If you are raising a pup, be sure to provide them with a soft towel or blanket in their sleeping area so they can burrow underneath it.

So don't be surprised if your Chihuahua scrambles under your blankets at night, even though your house or apartment may not be particularly cold.

 

12. Does my Chihuahua expect a suntan?

Chihuahuas are quite the sun-worshipers. They prefer to bask in the sun for hours and have been known to lie in a spot of sun no larger than the size of a half-dollar.

Watch your Chihuahua in hot weather to be sure that they don't suffer from heat stroke.

 

13. My Chihuahua's shivering. Is this because s/he's cold?

Chihuahuas do shiver when they're cold, but they also shiver when they are wary, excited, unhappy, or frightened or any other reason they can think of.

 

14. Is there a Chihuahua Home Page? Other online information?

The Chihuahua Club of America does have an official Web site. You can find the link for it and some of the regional Chihuahua Clubs on my "Links to Other Sites" page. There are a lot of Chihuahua sites on the internet, some have good information and some are very questionable. It is always a good idea to double check or get a second opinion before relying on information you find on the internet.

 

15. Is there someone to contact for Chihuahua Rescue?

Yes. There is a couple of very good rescue groups for Chihuahuas:

Chihuahua Club of America
Lynnie Bunten, San Antonio, TX, 210-633-2430
kachina@texas.net

Chihuahua Rescue and Transport (CRT)

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